Diesel - Brakes - Manual-transmissions - Cylinder - Mercedes-benz :: 1978 - Leak In Vacuum System?
Apr 16, 2011
When the brake pedal is first depressed, it sounds like air is being pushed out of it, sort of like flatulence, and are less responsive. When i pump the brake, it fills with air and tightens. The brakes work when I depress the pedal all the way down. Also, I have to pull my driver-side door shut a few times before it will close and lock with the vacuum system. Otherwise it won't close. Eventually the door closes and I can lock it when I shut the door just right. (My mechanic and I are working together to find replacement locks from junk yards) Is this the master cylinder? Or could this be due to a leak in the vacuum system since my door does not readily close? Or is it something else entirely? 1978 Mercedes 240D...
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1978 Mercedes 240D ... My clutch pedal loses all function after I drive over 45mph. If I wait 10 minutes, it works again.
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Yesterday my 1996 Mercedes C220 would not start. It cranked like crazy but would not fire. Some things I suspect contributed: The gas tank was below 1/4 full. It was cold ... about 25F. The night before I had put 140 lb. of sand in the trunk just before driving it about 15 miles home and parking it. My theory was that because of the weight of the sand and the low gas level, gas was not able to get to the fuel pump.
So this morning I was going to put in a couple gallons of gas from my garage gas can. When I opened the gas cap there was a serious whoosh of air into the tank; there had been a substantial vacuum inside the tank. I put the cap back on, without adding any gas (the sand was still in the trunk), and the car started right up. Here's my question(s):
1) Did the sand contribute in any way to the problem?;
2) Did the low gas level contribute?;
3) Did the cold weather contribute?;
4) Do I have a mechanical problem I need to take care of?
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I have a 2003 Mercedes c230 with low mileage 70000. This was its first season not garaged. About 2wks ago when very cold started abruptly to misfire badly at idle with poor gas mileage and modest loss of power. I got codes on OBD II for multiple cylinder misfires p0301-4 (all 4 cylinders). No other codes. Also the MAF and O2 sensors seems to be giving normal readings, and I cleaned the MAF sensor (didn't take off. cleaned through screen connected to air filter housing). 1 or 2 of the spark plugs seemed fouled as had black oily fuel on them and the O2 sensor voltage readings were consistently close to 0.9v (high meaning reading rich air/fuel right?). Changed all 4 plugs and swapped around ignition coils. Seems a little better but still misfire. O2 sensor voltage reads now consistently around 0.7v and the new plugs are dry but already blackened (indicating rich air/fuel I think).
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My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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Mercedes Benz 2000 C230 Compressor has fuel problem. Replaced fuel pump pressure checks were normal. Scan read fuel trim malfunction cylinder misfire detected...Where do I go from here?
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We purchased a 1990 300 SL that has been cared for by all of the previous owners and runs excellent but recently the car developed a leak from the transmission. We had the local AAA shop replace the pan gasket. The car only leaks after being driven for a while and after being shut off not while it is running. The transmission shifts smoothly but we still can not locate the source of the leak? Could this be a hose or some other connection?
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. Is it likely that my 1982 Mercedes 240 emits killer fumes? The reason I ask is that the previous owner recently died of brain cancer, and my now adult children have both been afflicted by shall we say, brain related problems. Does this car emit lead like crazy? Or does the smell of burning diesel cause harm?
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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So my accent with a manual trans has a small leak at the slave cylinder for the clutch. I am driving home and it's shifting hard. I get home pull up to where I live and push In the clutch and the car feels like the clutch is not pushed in. RPMs drop and car stalled. Look under hood and see not fluid in clutch master cylinder. Fill with fluid and pump pedal. I get some pedal back but the car will not crank. Nothing. I have accidentally cranked car when in gear in the past and there did not seem to be a safety switch as the car would move if my foot was not on brakes.
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Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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I've read a vacuum leak will cause this problem and my wife heard a hissing noise when I applied the brakes on the way home for lunch. So I'm assuming a vacuum leak someplace in the brake system, but I've not found one yet using the carb cleaner approach. The brakes worked on the way home but on the way back to work they hardly work at all - very stiff. Could the vacuum booster be the problem?
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4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
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I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
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I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
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I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
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