Cutlass - Supreme :: 1984 - Belt Smoking - Squealing Noise - Run Without An Oil Pump?
Sep 16, 2014
The part that appears in the pic I have attached to this post has been making a lot of noise lately - ping, bang, knock etc... but the car has driven fine for a few months like that. but today it seized up causing the belt to smoke and make a squealing noise - I was stuck in a parking lot so I just cut the belt off and drove home - now the car runs great - it no longer makes noise and I was watching the gauges and seems like no difference at all during my 5 mile trip home.
So my question to you car pros is - how important is that part? I'm low income in a ghetto apartment so money is tight and getting money for car repairs is hard right now - I assume that part is an oil pump and don't oil pumps just circulate oil just to clean it through the filter or is there something I am missing? Can I safely run the car without that part?
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I spilled coke into the gear shifter. This is causing my car to no longer move from reverse to park, vice versa. I have already removed the center console and can see the shifter, but I have absolutely no clue as to how to remove it from the vehicle and disassemble it so that I can wash it. Any directions for how to do this? Or better yet, a link to some sort of repair manual I can use?
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i own a 67 old cutlass supreme and the fuel gauge, as you turn off the car goes down to 3/4 of a tank, when you start it up it goes to full. But the car is really empty! That is the only reading I get, no matter how much gas I have. I replaced the sending unit and I cleaned the ground wire, it still does the same.
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So I have a 2002 GTI VR6 with the 24v BDF Engine. I have been having a problem with my belt squealing. It started after I replaced my water pump and crack pipe. While I was at it I replaced the belt tensioner and belt with a kit from ECS than had an aftermarket tensioner and a Conti drive belt(has 6 ribs). When starting the car up for the first time after doing the water pump I noticed the belt was squealing. It would only squeal when I gave it some good throttle.
After a few minutes it stopped squealing so I figured it was some coolant or something on the belt. Well its been a few weeks and it continues to squeal when I give it throttle, but only if the ac is on and it will only do it for a few minutes. After a few minutes of the car running or driving down the road it doesn't squeal anymore. I did make a long drive in the rain very shortly after replacing the belt and it was a really heavy rain storm. There was a lot of water on the road and my belt was squealing pretty much the whole drive if I had the ac on. I had to alternate ac on and off so I could keep the windows defogged.
After that experience I put on a set of engine splash guards from ECS. (note these guards were the ECS branded ones and were a terrible fit. Holes didn't line up with studs on bottom of frame and ended up taking the middle belly pan section out as it would hang down way too low even with the side covers connected to it.) That seemed to keep it from squealing while driving in the rain but it still squeals after first starting the cold engine with ac on.
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My daughters 96 cav has a bad squeal coming from serpintine belt. I tried belt dressing and it threw the belt. I didn't notice any cracks/dry rotting on belt. I put the belt back on but it is still squealing.
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I have a 2014 2.0T and have noticed that my car is making a noise that sounds like a belt squealing. I thought the sound was being produced by the brakes. I only notice when I drive the car from a cold start.
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So I drove my car (2000 vw golf tdi auto) to work fine. When I started it to drive home, it squealed and then all of a sudden stopped squealing so I popped my hood and looked and the belt can fit 2 fingers under it. Is there anything I can check diagnose this? I hear it could b a tensioner pulley.
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2003 Hyundai Elantra.
Driving on the highway and thought I heard a belt squeal. Looked at temp gauge, overheating in the red. Stopped car. Antifreeze on passenger side sprayed around, hard to tell from where.
Waiting a while, put a good amount of water in it as there seemed to be no anti-freeze left. Drove a bit more and it started going up on temp gauge. Pulled off highway on an exit, temp gauge went back down before I could pull over.
So I continued on the highway. The temp gauge would go back up to 3/4, then I'd put it in neutral to cost to a better place to stop, and the gauge would go back to halfway.. continued this for several miles to get home. Never overheated again, but kept getting "hot"(3/4) and dropping back down to normal (1/2)...
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I have an 05 Jetta Wagon GLS 2.0 which has been amazingly resilient. I had the 100k check up done recently and everything still came up positive; the battery conked out at 120k; and I just recently replaced the stock head and tail lights out of proactiveness rather than them going out. But, I think I've run into an issue now. When I drive through a puddle (or otherwise get water significantly on the underside of the car) if I am running the AC at the same time the engine makes a squealing noise as though a belt is slipping due to the water. I presume is the case that a belt is slipping--and I imagine that is part of the reason it idles noisier than when it was new, but before my wife and I make a budget I'd see whether there are other options. As it is there are 130k miles on the car, it's a 5spd standard, and other than oil changes and the checks at 30, 60, and then 100k no real service has been done.
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2003 vr6
Belt squeal but when I have clutch pushed in no noticeable noise.Abs kicks in at low speed stops. I sprayed the belts with dressing noise went away momentarily actually sounded like it could have killed it almost. Right now I have the and fuse pulled to just get me by.
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I've been clambering over the truck (bought unseen) and working out what needs doing - and have noticed (glaring at me) the lack of belt running from the Fan Pulley up to the AC Compressor... I'm guessing the AC didn't work and this was a 'simple' way to de-commission it?
Is this a common 'fix' or do I need to worry and get belt on there? AC in the UK is only needed 3 days a year (if were lucky) so not worried if i don't have it.
Trucks a 6.9 Diesel
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I had my serpentine belt replaced 3 months ago because it was starting to shred. Yesterday it broke again. The garage said the second time was caused by a problem with the crankshaft pulley. Shouldn't they have noticed a problem with the crankshaft pulley the first time it was replaced?
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I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
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Well, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
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I have a 1984 Ford Ranger 4x4 with 2.8L V6, carburetor number E37E-AEA. The accelerator pump diaphragm is perforated.
Small holes are visible when I hold it up to a light. Is this part available anywhere? Is it included in these carb repair kits that I see on a lot of auto parts sites? The sites don't list the contents of their "kits."
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I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
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2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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For a few months now every time I start the car with AC on the belt squeals really loud. It's been getting worse so I need to fix it now. I just don't know if it's just a belt change or something bigger like the actual AC unit. I got the car certified pre owned in 07 and have never changed an engine belt on it so it's probably due. Here is a video of the noise, first part of video is without AC then I turn it on to here the squeal. Is this simple belt change or a deeper issue with the AC? [URL] .....
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I thought it was the power steering pump & replaced it and still get the noise. A friend did squirt belt dressing on the belt while running and the sound disappeared for a short period of time, so now my guess is its the belt which is not loose, I went and loosened the four bolts on the power steering pump trying to move it thinking there was a crooked connection between the two pulleys maybe, but no. I start up my car and get a squeal that wiould wake the dead for a minute or two, then all is fine driving. If I drive to the store shut it off for 10 minutes usually starts w/ no noise, looks like I made a charitable donation on the new pump,...also the the power steering fluid is correct
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Know that squealing sound a belt makes when it's loose and needs to be replaced? Well what is it when you hear that sound, but you know it's not a belt? It happens intermittently, usually when the car is cold...and it's been happening more and more lately...like whatever the problem is, is getting worse
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