Civic - Honda :: Won't Start - Intermittent Ignition Failure
Jun 1, 2015
I have had a problem compounding for about 6 months. The car will not even try to turn over. One day she works perfect, the next day the starter won't even try to turn over. Recently it has been getting worse, I continued to roll start when it wouldn't start and kept driving... but now it will not even try to start at all.
I thought perhaps it was the starter solenoid failing, but when I took it to advance auto parts they tested it and it was functioning just as it should. I then figured it could be the relay, but I can hear it clicking on. What else could it be? I know that the spark plug wires and distributor are all good because I have personally replaced them in the last 6 months. I found some things on the internet referring to a clutch pedal ignition lock switch. Any good way to test it?
[URL] .....
This would appear to be the switch that I have heard of. Can it cause a complete breach of power from the ignition switch to the starter when failing? I will check to make sure that power is not making it to the starter tomorrow... I'm just not that familiar with the circuit.
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I have a 1991 Honda Civic DX and it is doing something I can't explain. Randomly the car will not even try to turn over. The ignition switch will click, the dash lights come on... but not even the slightest peep from the starter motor. If I put the vehicle in fifth gear and roll it, turning the engine over even half a rotation, the engine will fire right up.
It started on a road trip and happened very sparsely, but has since become more common. What used to be 1 out of 20 is now maybe 1 out of 4 chance it doesn't start. Every now and then it will go days without any problems, then seemingly randomly the ignition fails again for spurts. I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and rotor about 2 months ago. The ignition switch appears to be fine....
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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I am having a very frustrating problem with my 2010 Honda Civic. I have had the anti-theft immobilizer unit activate on me 3 different times now, preventing me from starting the car. The electronics in the dash and the indoor lights turn on like normal, the engine will turn over fully as it tries to start (it will even start for a second before the immobilizer turns the ignition off if I put the key in and turn it fast enough). The first time it happened I did not realize it was the immobilizer and attempted to jump it, to no avail.
Had to go to the dealership to get a dummy key with no fob attached to it (there is a chip in the fob that communicates that the immobilizer unit recognizes (or doesn't recognize in this case) and a brake code to enter to get the thing started and back to the dealership. I left it there for them to service, only to have them call me a few hours later and say it started up just fine. The keys weren't the problem, the battery wasn't the problem, they couldn't tell me anything was wrong with it. They didn't charge me for it.
About a year passes and happens to me again last week, stranded in between Austin and San Antonio at a gas station. Tow home, get brake code from dealer, drop off at dealer for service, dealer calls back hours later and can't find anything wrong. Says they scanned the immobilizer unit but came up with nothing. Now it has happened again this morning, this time I got it towed straight there so they can see that the immobilizer has it locked down and maybe they can see something that wasn't apparent last time. I will find out tomorrow what they find.
Faulty Honda immobilizer unit?The battery in the key fobs shouldn't be the issue, as they unlock the car and function properly when the immobilizer unit hasn't thrown a fit. The battery may be the culprit, as I had to get a jump for leaving my hazards on for an afternoon, but I am doubting that since there is no dimming or other noticeable differences with the dash. The tech liaison theorized it might be an A/C relay but I don't have too much faith in his theories since they didn't get it right the first two times.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 40000 miles on it. About a year ago, I'd notice a problem with the a/c occasionally stopping, but at other times I'd turn on the car and it would work. Sometimes it would not work when I started the car but after I'd driven for a while it would kick on. But, for the past 4 months or so, it has stopped coming on completely. What could this be? And... what sort of figure am I looking at to get this repaired?
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The A/C on my 2009 Honda CRV fail intermittently. I've had the system recharged, checked for leaks, and a relay replaced. Here's what's been happening... only during really warm weather sometimes the A/C just starts blowing hot air. Normally when this happens it resumes working the next day. One time I engaged the defrost and cold air blew out the windshield vents, when I then pushed the a/c button cold air came out the face vents. I was never able to reproduce this though. Also, a few days ago when the a/c failed I deselected the a/c control button and suddenly the air went from hot to ice cold - with the a/c off!
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My wife was driving our 2003 Honda Civic hybrid (125,000 miles) and the electronic power steering went out. She managed to get it parked, called me, and when I arrived everything seemed to work fine. (She said the yellow EPS light came on, but she didn't know what that meant.) I drove it for a while and had no problems. A few days later my daughter was driving and the entire car shut down. I jump started it and everything worked OK, but I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis. They could find nothing wrong (no codes). However, the next day the car once again would not start I replaced the 'starter' battery (the lithium-ion man battery pack had actually been replaced at around 79,000 miles--right before the expiration of the warranty!).
Now it seems fine, but my wife and daughter refuse to drive it, and I'm not sure if the problem is fixed. Here are my questions:1. Since this is a hybrid, once the car is running a failure of the 'starter' batter should have no effect on the EPS, or anything else, right? It all runs off the main lithium-ion battery pack. However, replacing the 'starter' battery seems to have solved the problem--or at least a dead 'starter' batter is temporally (if not causally?) connected with the other failures. This might be just a coincidence, since seems odd to have the 'starter' battery part of the larger electrical set-up. The dealership had no clue and I can't figure it out.2.
The first time just the EPS went out, but the second time the entire car shut down. This doesn't make much sense--especially since the dealer couldn't pull any codes. The car's auto-stop shuts the engine off all the time at speeds below 10 mph (this is a semi-hybrid), so why the total shut down?3. Why didn't the dealership tell me the 'starter' battery needed replacement? I've checked my records, and it seems to be the one that came with the car in 2003 (actually fall 2002). Should I give up?
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Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
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About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe, automatic transmission with 131,000 on it. I took it to my mechanic before purchasing it and he said it looked good. The test drive didn't reveal any problems. A few days into owning it, however, I noticed this screeching noise but it didn't happen all the time. When it happened, I was always taking off from an intersection or pulling out of a parking lot - never when I was just driving down the road or on startup. The mechanic couldn't get the noise to happen but inspected the belts and said they looked new and were tight enough. This continued happening intermittently and sometimes I would even notice a slight hesitation in the car on takeoff. I went back to my regular mechanic with no success and also took it to another mechanic who tightened up the power steering belt a bit - still does it. None of the mechanics hear the noise when they drive it because it is so intermittent. I will add that the noise only happens with the AC on - a further inspection revealed the pulleys to be ok. What in the world is this noise and is it something that could leave me stranded? Everything I read about screeching is belt and pulley related but that doesn't seem to be my problem.
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2003 Honda Civic. Any speed between 30 and 50, car suddenly starts pronounced steering wheel shimmy, too intense to ignore. You can park, start up again and it's gone.
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I have 1999 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission and I cannot remove the key. I have shifted it in and out out of Park and turned the steering wheel without any success. I suspect the problem is related to a sensor to determine the shifter is in Park. How can I verify this or rule it out. If it is a sensor what is a reasonable cost to have it repaired.
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So my Honda Civic has been flashing my check engine light, which is telling my my cylinders are misfiring. I checked the ignition coils by removing them while the car was running and cylinder 2 and 3 I can remove and it doesn't change how the car runs. I put a new ignition coil In and that doesn't work so it isn't the ignition coils, what it could be?
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2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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I have a power window issue with my 2002 civic with about 120K miles on it. this has happened intermittently over the last 2-3 years but now it's not fixing itself.
The other day, I had opened all the windows while driving. When I got to my destination and wanted to put them all back up, the driver's side rear window did not go up. Neither the driver's seat/master switch nor the rear door switch did anything. No noise from the window at all when activating either switch. I checked the power window relay fuse under the dash and it is fine. If I try to pull the window up, that doesn't work either.
In the past when this has happened, I typically would just pray for dry weather and wait a few days, and it would eventually work again on its own. I seem to recall that shutting the rear or driver's door a few times might have worked a little too. I have a vague memory from a few years ago that it may have also happened (the same exact problem) with the passenger side rear window, but i can't be 100% in my recollection of that.
I don't drive the car a lot, but i'd like to not have a sheet of plastic taped around the window, it looks pretty junky. I don't really need the rear window to be fully functional (though that would be great) - i would be content to get it into the up position and then never open it again.
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I just recently bought a used 2013 Honda Civic with 22,000 miles.
When I apply the brakes at speeds below 20mph, you can hear a high pitch intermittent squeak from the front right wheel. The time in between each squeak gets longer as you slow down.
I check the pads on both sides and they are both fairly new. (close to a cm on the pad left) The wear indicators were no where close to the edge of the pad. I greased them up and still nothing. I checked around the rotor for any metal that could be touching it but I didn't find anything. What would make an intermittent squeak like that.
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I have honda civic 2005 Lx with 170,000 miles. I noticed increased RPM about 1.5 with cold start but no missfire. I attempted to take out ignition coils to see if genuine ones solve the issue. It is very little rainy today with high humidity. After I put new ignition coils, I noticed increased shaking with misfire. I have not touched anything except for putting in/out coils. I ensured the position and connection of the coils. Is this anything with humidity? I did it really quick without much exposure to the rain. How to resolve this issue? at least return to previous condition?
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The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
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On cold mornings here in California, like most older cars with high mileage, it makes some ticking/valve sounds until I fully warm up my car after a mile or two of driving. At that point, the sounds disappear.
I've noticed that if I blip the ignition or turn over the engine without starting the car, when starting up on cold mornings, it doesn't make valve lash noise or ticking when I pull out of the garage.
I chalk it up to the fact that I "threw" some oil on top the head before starting up the engine fully. I've only done this maybe 5 times since I found out.
Car: 99 Civic w/ 217k+ miles.
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I have a '96 Honda Civic DX model, manual transmission. I replaced the battery, sparkplugs, distributor last summer. Yesterday, hottest day yet this spring, my car wouldn't start. When cranked, the lights came on the dash, the fuel line was running, the check engine light blinked, but then no ignition. Left it overnight, started up fine this morning. Took it to a shop,Mechanic said battery and alternator were good and a replaced starter later, I took it home. Driving home, the idle dropped way too low (no tach) and almost stalled the car (battery light came on) when I pushed in the clutch. Now when I turn it on, it starts, idles regular, then the idle drops again.
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I'll be driving the car fine, but after driving for maybe 10+ minutes and then stopping for 20-30 minutes, my manual 2002 Mazda Tribute DX (about 126K miles) won't start. It doesn't act flooded at all, all I hear is a click. The lights and radio and air conditioning and everything come on perfectly, but it won't start. About half of the time, it won't work at all with repeated attempts but after about 5 min. it'll just start normally. I've towed it to a shop 3 times now, on the first the alternator was replaced, and after about a week the same problem occurred, etc.
My mechanic then thought I might not be pressing the clutch all the way down since it worked right after towing but after about a week (I removed the floor mat and even made a video of me, a relatively large male, pressing as hard as safely possible on the clutch) but it still wouldn't start. It was towed, and now the car is at the shop again but the mechanic can't reproduce the problem yet again. Its battery and clutch were just replaced about a year ago, the connections don't look corroded, and my mechanic's tests on the alternator seem fine. Steering wheel isn't locked, and (supposedly) the shop's tried looking at the starter.
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I have a very reliable Mazda 3 2006. For the last month I have had a problem with it refusing to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it on and nothing. No start, no grinding, no clicking, no sound at all. Got a new battery and it happened again. The second AAA tow guy taught me to start the car by putting it in neutral ( with foot brake and hand brake on) and then start it, which does the trick when it won't start otherwise.
After the new battery and continued problems I asked my mechanic to check the electrical system. He did and said everything was fine.
I don't know whether this is a generator, alternator, computer or battery problem. And I don't know what I am doing to my car when I do the neutral set start. I don't know if I am hurting my car when I do that.
The problem is intermittent. There is no pattern: length of trip before I stop, length of time the car is not used, etc. What is causing this and what needs to be looked at/ fixed.
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