Civic - Honda :: Unpredictably Shut Off Completely And Then Restarted Ten Minutes Later
Apr 15, 2013
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic 4 door DX.
In 2011 at intersections, the car unpredictably shut off completely and then restarted ten minutes later - this happened twice, spaced two weeks apart.
I took the car to two mechanics, one a Honda, where they simulated driving and performed diagnostic tests but could find nothing wrong.
I Googled the Internet in search of an answer and ran across a fellow who had experienced a similar shutdown with his car and resolved it by purchasing a new ignition switch. So I tried that. Everything was fine until two weeks when I stopped at an intersection and the car shut down again - the dashboard lights stayed on. A police officer nearby push the car to the side of the road and we then pushed the car back and forth a bit. About ten minutes later, the car started up again as if nothing had happened and everything was OK.
I again took my car to the Honda dealer, but they could find nothing wrong, including driving the car around the neighborhood.
I am a total loss as to what do to. I am reluctant to junk this car because everything else is A-OK. The car drives fine and I love it because it is manual with minimum digital stuff including manual windows. But I cannot afford to drive this car when there is the chance of another unpredictable shutdown.
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'93 Civic 1.5 manual starts first crank when cold but has trouble starting if you shut it off within 5-10 minutes of initial start. Just cranks and cranks, no start. Wait a half hour, starts right up. Warm start no problem, just that first 5 minutes after initial start. Gonna check it out today . . . first chance I've had to look at it. No other problems, drives and runs well, no stumble, good idle, mpg hasn't changed, just this annoying issue.
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I had a leaking reserve tank on my Honda. These bikes have 2 gas tanks. Why I do not know. It is a pain to remove this tank. I fixed the leak but after it started hard. I thought perhaps the carbs were dried out and it took a while because of that. Once I originally got it started it started fine. It would miss a little especially when cold. I had not taken it very far until the other day.
After 10 miles it began to lose power and shut down completely. After 10 minutes I got it to run for 5 more miles. I stopped to do something and left there about another 5 miles till it shut down again. After another 10 min wait I got it to run after turning it over for a long time. After a few more times I got it home to storage. I thought after it cooled off it would start up easier, but no it started just as hard as it was warm.
What could I have screwed up by simply repairing the reserve fuel 2nd tank? Could I have gotten some dirt or something into the tank?
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I have a manual 2000 Honda civic that is acting up. When I drive it after about 15mins it gets really hot. Then right before I pull over it starts to cool off if I have the heat pumping . It also seem to over heat when ever I am sitting idle . I replaced the radiator and thermostat but I'm still having the problem.
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CURRENT PROBLEM:The fans don't blow any air after about 30 minutes of driving/once the car has warmed up.Also, A/C seems to permanently be on even if I don't have the A/C button on, but the fan problem is the main issue(There has been a loud hum behind the dash (for over a year) that speeds up the faster I set the fan speed so the motor is going but no air comes out.)
What's happened in the past:
1. Last summer the A/C stopped working. Will have to look back at receipts more to see exactly what was done (not sure if it worked through winter).
2. Basically the heat only came out of the vent to the left of the steering wheel all winter (no air came out of other vents or it barely came out but was cold).
3. A/C wasn't blowing cold so they replaced thermo switch. When they did this, car wouldn't do anything so they replaced the computer (fortunately I didn't pay for that).
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I have a 2002 Honda civic, standard, that I bought second hand in March this year which is running great except the A/C all summer would just turn off randomly and then after anywhere from 10min to an hour later come back on. I had it checked out and they said it was a leak, filled it up and put the special dye and it worked great for a month then started again. When they checked it again there were no leaks, so assuming its the compressor. Being near winter I decided to leave it until next year but now I've noticed when I turn the front windshield defroster on and put the temp dial to heat, the A/C light comes on! Every time and it wont turn off. It doesn't matter if I've put it all the way to heat or cold - if its on the windshield or windshield and foot vent the A/C is on. I think I can hear the A/C running too. If I change the dial from the windshield to the feet vents only or whatever the A/C stays on until I push the button to turn it off but it will turn off at this point.
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I have a Civic that is overheating after even short drives (ca. 30 mins). Today the heat gauge went up to 3/4 after 20 minutes, and was still rising when I stopped. The radiator fluid is topped up, oil was just changed and is full and not cloudy. No white smoke has been seen out of the tailpipe. The following repairs have already been attempted. New thermostat (replaced 2X), new radiator, timing kit, coolant temp sensors (both), water pump, AC condenser, AC refrigerant. It is still overheating after all that. Why?
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I was driving my 99 honda civic at a steady 65mph on the highway for about 10 minutes. I was not accelerating or anything, when it cut out totally as if I turned off the engine. When I would step on the gas (still moving), it would not even hit/sputter or anything. I pulled off to the side of the road and immediately tried to restart... nothing.
Two minutes later, I try to restart, and it started right up. Get going another 5 minutes, and it does the same thing. This time I only waited about 30 seconds, then it started up again, but it 'missed' a couple of times just before it started up. Then it was fine for the rest of the drive to work, and hasn't stalled since (one week).
However, the check engine light came on the next day after the stalling episode, and has also been on since. The code is P0420 (which says that the O2 sensor before and after the catalytic converter read similar, indicating a bad catalytic converter). I'm not sure if this is, however, a downstream effect/ symptom of a larger problem (that this is not the cause, but the effect of a larger problem?)
Here are some extra facts that may be relevant, or may be totally random:
I occasionally catch a whiff of egg like smell (smells like it's running rich, and maybe it is heating the catalytic converter)
It seems to be functioning fine (no loss of power)... the gas mileage even seems OK-I filled up with a new tank of gas the night before the drive (I've since filled up again)-There was an ignition recall, that I did NOT have done (I just found out about it -The car is pretty beat up: 170K miles-Gas gage quit working about a month ago... always reads full.
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I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
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My 99 civic 5 speed has a weird power loss issue. Right after starting up for the first few mins while I'm driving (any speed and gear) it'll start lagging like it isn't getting gas or something.
Letting off the gas peddle stops it, then pressing the gas causes it again. If I go up and down on the gas peddle it goes away for a few seconds. If I'm just at idle the idle speed goes down and down untill it almost stalls then it revs up a bit and then does it again.
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I have a 1999 honda civic that has had an issue with randomly shutting off lately. It always happens within a minute of me turning the car on and I usually have to wait several minutes before the car will crank again. When it does the engine shuts off and all lights immediately go off. Once I finally do get the car to crank its hit or miss if it will stay running, but if it makes it through the first minute or so its usually golden. Its like it has to have a perfect connection or something or it wont stay on. The only suggestion I've had from someone is possibly the ignition being bad.
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I just got a new 2016 Prius c 4, and I love it so far! This is also the first car I've owned under my own name, as I've mostly lived near public transportation and borrowed cars up until now. In other words, I'm a bit of newbie when it comes to the Prius and cars in general...
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I'm convinced my 02 honda civic does not like traffic nor hot weather. Whenever i'm in traffic for more than 20 minutes (which is about everyday) it starts to make this loud buzzing noise. Seems to be the way my car is telling me that it does not want to be in traffic. I can sure relate. Me neither. When the weather gets hot, my car does the same thing. Can you relate to my car as well?
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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Took a little trip today in our 01 v10 2wd. Spent about 45 minutes on the interstate. At 1 point I had kicked it down out of od to get out around a slow semi. The trans seamed to upshift real hard. I thought it was odd but didnt give it much more thought. After getting off the interstate we traveled on divided 4 lane highway. Every time we pulled off from a stop the trans would upshift hard from 1-2 and 2-3, rest of the shifts felt fine. We stopped (shut off and went inside) to pick up lunch and the hard shift was really worrying me.
After our stop we continued on with the trip. The trans shifted flawlessly the rest of the day. OD light didn't flash and MIL did not come on. Bought in February with 168k, now has 169k. Did all services including trans flush with Merc 5 fluid when I got it. I know you cant fix what isn't broke but if I can do some thing now before it poops out all together I want to try. Not towing, just passengers...
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My friend bought an 05 passat and he is having issues. The windows completely fog up within 10 minutes and they wont defog. He has had it to the dealer and they have spent hours trying to figure it out and they even called VW trying to find answers and got nothing. They asked about moisture under the carpet and various things but nothing.
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My car has worked fine since I got it 1 year ago, I just put a new battery a few months ago but when I tried to start it this morning it started for a second then completely shut off. I cant even take the key out of the ignition (infiniti q45 has a button on the ignition that needs to be pushed while taking the key out and that button is stuck now.) When I open the door, the lights on the side of the door and the open door sound work but they are both very distorted and faint.
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I have 2004 Toyota Camry V4 Automatic , I recently installed a Two way Compustar Remote Starter a month ago. While i was driving my vehicle on the highway (110 kmph) my car engine shut off completely with no lights. I parked my car on the shoulder and again start my car normally with the key and was able to start it normally. There was no engine check lights or any kind of warning.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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