My friend was replacing the temp sensor on his 2000 Civic, and twisted too hard and it broke off leaving part of the screw still in the hole. I got him a screw extractor kit, and he tried it this morning, and it too broke off. How to get these things out? I'm including a photo.
View 14 Replies1998 Civic HX ... The air temp sensor is held on by threaded devices that seem to have smooth, rounded heads.
How do you get them out? And, they are at the back of the engine so that there is limited space between the engine and firewall.
Took my 2003 Honda civic hybrid to a budget tune and lube. They said that I needed my fluid changed, I agreed, they changed it (did not flush it). It has 95k on it. Later that night the car broke down, I took it to honda they're telling me that I need a new transmission, there are pieces of a chain in the fluid that they drained. Supposedly the budget tune and lube used a CVT fluid called "Full throttle" honda is telling me that you cannot use anything but honda fluid and the tune and lube is not taking responsibility. Could this have destroyed the transmission?
View 18 RepliesWe drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.
View 2 Replies I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
Why, after so many repairs and $$$$ with a AAA Certified Repair shop, the temp gauge that sooner or later shows the needle HOT? Everything accounted for - thermostat 5x, radiator 3x, computer, maintenance, etc etc etc. " It's fixed !!" and then it's starts all over again. It's got 186,000 on it, couple of minor wrecks, all maintenance kept up, still driving it but the needle goes back up again and again. Funny thing, water levels remain the same, no smoke, no red engine light, slight smell of a hot engine but nothing else so far. Still, that needle!! This has been going on a couple of years. Want to figure it out before I get rid of the car. 2003 Civic Coupe DX ....
View 3 Repliesi have a 2002 Honda Civic EX, 155,000 miles. I've been having this problem for quite some time and the mechanic has not been able to figure out what the problem is. He has changed the thermostat, pressure tested the coolant (or something along those lines) but the problem persists. The mechanic also pressure tested the radiator system and said there was no leak. He also told me the tank was overfilled with water, apparently I didn't need to be waiting for the car to cool down so I could add more water, so I've stopped doing that. I have NOT had the scheduled 150,000 maintenance done yet. The mechanic said it wasn't 'urgent' and if I wanted to wait I could. I was hoping to spend the money repairing this problem before doing that, which he said sounded OK to him. The timing belt was replaced in 2007 right before I moved across the country.
I'll try to be succinct, but the explanation is long. Overall: when driving the car to run errands around town the temp gauge used to quickly go all the way to HOT & the A/C starts blowing hot/humid air. When this happened I was pulling over, turning off A/C & radio & putting the car in neutral until the gauge goes back down, used to take only a few minutes but if driving in town (stop lights/traffic) i have to keep doing this b/c the needle returns to the top quickly. I also started trying putting the car in neutral while stopped at lights or in traffic & if i pushed on the gas pedal & kept the engine at 3K RPM the needle would go back down & A/C would start blowing cold when I started driving again.
The other part of this is if i change the A/C vent diverter from all vents blowing at upper body to vents blowing at face & feet or all vents blowing at feet the green 'recycled air' light goes out & the air starts blowing hot & humid, this persists even if I push the 'recycle' air button again.
Until yesterday this temp gauge & A/C issue has not been nearly as much of a problem when driving on the highway at a consistent speed, in other words when the car doesn't have to idle the problem didn't occur very often, the temp gauge may have moved towards 'HOT' but never got all the way up there. Until yesterday. I had to drive thru town with quite a bit of construction & resulting traffic as well as a few stop lights which sent the gauge go to HOT quickly. When I got on the highway I was expecting the gauge to go back down & the A/C to start blowing cold air.... alas, it did not. the gauge stayed very near HOT the whole time & the A/C never blew cold air. It was 106*F yesterday?
And yet another part of this problem, which the mechanics have told me is NOT related to this problem: in the winter time the heater took an extraordinarily long time to heat up and then would only blow warm air while the car was moving at a pretty high speed, under around 30 MPH and there was no heat, and definitely no heat when idling. I do not remember the temp gauge hanging out at HOT all the time but I do think it would go higher than the middle range.
The car has yet to actually overheat. Apparently the mechanic can't diagnose/repair the problem until the engine DOES overheat, at least this is what he has told me. I'm not feeling very confident in this mechanic, as clearly the problem is getting worse over time. And I don't believe it is OK to continue driving a car when the temp gauge is at HOT all the time, that doesn't seem smart at all. Sadly, the mechanic that used to work on my car & was able to diagnose & repair problems quickly & competently has gone to work somewhere else & is no longer working on cars. So, I have decided I cannot continue to use the current mechanic and am now faced with having to take it to the dealership, something I REALLY hate to do. I just don't know of any other reputable Honda repair folks in the area & am tired of being w/o my car for days at a time and still have to deal with the problem.
A friend has a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 120,000 miles that she just bought the end of 2013. The car was kept immaculate by the previous owner. This week as she was driving, she said the temperature needle suddenly went all the way to H. Earlier in the day, she had noticed the A/C was not consistently cool but didn't think much of it as there were no other problems with the car. When the temp needle suddenly went to H, she shut off the a/c and before she could pull over the temp needle went back to normal. She checked the coolant level which was very low and she took it to the dealer who ran multiple tests including checking the thermostat, cylinder compression tests, etc but they could find nothing wrong. I keep telling her there is a reason it did that and that coolant doesn't just disappear and that I think she should take it back.
View 6 RepliesI Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
View 7 RepliesI have 1999 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission and I cannot remove the key. I have shifted it in and out out of Park and turned the steering wheel without any success. I suspect the problem is related to a sensor to determine the shifter is in Park. How can I verify this or rule it out. If it is a sensor what is a reasonable cost to have it repaired.
View 4 RepliesWell, I'm still driving the same old 1998 Honda Civic DX two-door coupe, and I've got a problem with overheating. The temperature gauge needle doesn't get quite to the red, but it's popping up higher than usual, and I'm concerned to see it getting anywhere near the red. It usually spikes when I get off the highway and stop at a light, but it also does it occasionally in a drive thru, and recently, I discovered that when I give it a little gas in neutral, it brings the temperature gauge needle down to normal.
Here is the history of recent repairs and troubleshooting:
-About 3-4 years ago, I had a leaky radiator replaced, so the one that is in there isn't very old.
-Last year I had a mechanic replace the thermostat, the radiator fan, and the radiator cap when I started having this problem.
-A few months ago, I had the timing belt serviced (the entire kit, not just the belt), but since the water pump looked fine and the car has so much mileage (275,000 miles), I opted not to replace the water pump. (I regret that now. I usually replace the water pump with every other timing belt, but I've learned my lesson.)-I've been to several shops to get a diagnosis, but they have a hard time getting it to overheat at all, so they can't diagnose it.
One guy suggested the water pump might be worn out (inside, without leaking outside). Another guy suggested that "if it was the water pump, you would know it's the water pump." Each mechanic has done a pressure test on the cooling system and a flow test on the radiator, and they all say they are fine. One mechanic theorized that I might have a very small head gasket leak, but nobody else thinks that is the case and there is no sign of coolant and oil mixing. Besides, the temperature gauge has never been in the red.
-One mechanic who tried to diagnose the problem recommended replacing the plugs, plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. After doing that, it is running better than it was, but that didn't resolve the overheating problem. He also retarded the spark timing, but it is self-adjusting, so it re-advances itself after a couple days of driving. I can hear what sounds like minor knocking, but it's always made that noise since it was new.
-Everyone who has tried to diagnose the problem says the thermostat is opening and closing as it should, and the radiator fan comes on and shuts off when it should.
I'm done getting second and third opinions, and I'm ready to start throwing parts at it. Do you think I should start with the water pump? What are your thoughts? Don't tell me to replace the car. I just bought a new motorcycle.
This is a 2003 honda civic with about 150k on it. Recently the check engine light came on so I went to Advance auto parts to get my codes read. I got back that the oxygen sensor had gone bad and each and every cylinder was misfiring?
What could be causing the each cylinder to misfire like that? I drive it about 60mi every day and it doesn't seem to drive all that rough. So it's kinda weird that it said every cylinder was misfiring, like how could I even drive it like that?
I heard the oxygen sensor is something I don't have to worry too much about. I could still drive it. The clerk told me to some spray carburetor cleaner on it and that should do something for it.
But recently I've noticed that it starts up rough, seems to strain for about 2-3 seconds then it starts.
2004 Honda Civic with 166000 miles.
--Had Check Engine light on for a couple days and code reader said P0135. Parts guy said this means "Bank 1", my Haynes book calls this code for " Primary Sensor 1" Is this the same as "Upstream"?
--Replaced O2 sensor (Denso 192400-1160 05F12) myself with a new one (Bosch 15710). Fit perfectly, plugged right in.
--Check engine light goes off for about 5 minutes but comes back on with code P0134.
What should I do now? I replaced the sensor closer to the engine before the catalytic converter. Very easy to reach from the top. I rented the correct tools and did not damage or force anything. Is there a second O2 sensor after the cat that is not so easy to reach? Was that the one I needed to replace? Did I misunderstand the meaning of "upstream" or "Bank 1"?
I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
View 10 Replies33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
My Crankshaft sensor has broken off in the hole for it and will not come out. Does the whole brass looking piece come out to be flush with the black or just the dome looking piece inside the brass. This crankshaft sensor is located at the 7 o'clock position behind the flywheel. What is the best way to remove it? 1999GMC Suburban c1500.....
View 19 RepliesI was attempting to replace the front abs sensor on my '03 Excursion 4x4 when it broke off inside the hole. I tried grabbing the plastic surrounding the magnet, but it just kept breaking off. How I can get it out?
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2007 Passat. The tire pressure sensor broke off at the valve stem. In checking with the dealer, I was told the tire pressure sensor and valve stem are all one unit. My question is if you can use a regular valve stem and attach the sensor to it, or do you have to get the entire unit with the valve stem and sensor together.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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