Civic - Honda :: Seat Belts Grab And Won't Let Go
Jan 11, 2013
The rear seat belts in my wife's 2001 Civic EX are annoying, but I don't know if this is abnormal, and can be fixed, or just something we have to live with. Basically, the seat belts frequently grab you and won't let go, so you can't lean forward, for instance. You have to unlatch them and start over.
When I test the belts without latching them, I pull them out a long way and let them retract over and over, and then at some point they grab and I can't pull them out again without letting them retract all the way back to the beginning. I can hear that the ratchet is engaged when this is happening.
During the time when they do pull out and retract with no problem, if I give a sharp tug, they grab, like they're designed to do, and then let go.
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I had a blown head gasket replaced on my Civic last month and since then I've noticed a chirping noise every time I turn on the A/C and about every 18 seconds thereafter. Sometimes there's a longer, louder squeal, too.
Does that sound like a belt issue or an expansion valve problem or something else entirely? Will it hurt my car to keep driving it like this? And could it be related to the replaced head gasket?
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She has an old Honda Civic wagon - circa 1987 or so. Recently, the driver's seat belt has been sticking such that it will not pull out. I managed to get it to release by giving it a really good hard yank, and we've clipped it temporarily to prevent it from retracting all the way when she is not wearing it. She can remove the clip and use it when she drives, atleast for now.
But I have a couple of questions: is the seatbelt still safe to use - in other words will it still work if she's in an accident? Also, if it is safe, is there any way to easily see the retractor mechanism to figure out what is happening? It seems to be hanging up on that little "button" on the belt - not sure what purpose that little dot serves?.
Additional info : car has about 120K miles on it, and has never been in an accident - she's the original owner. The seatbelt itself, for those who have not sen this model, is attached to the door. The top buckle is in a fixed position - it does not move. The movement of the belt, bottom and top, seems to come from inside of the door.
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The seat-belts in my 1998 Honda Civic Si (coupe) are slow to retract when unbuckled. Usually end up making them along by pushing the belts up into the slot. Any way to juice the re-tractor mechanism without major expenses...
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I removed the front seat belts from the seat base on my 1987, 740 to remove the front seats for cleaning and fabric repair. When I went to install the reel that attaches to the seats, they would not unwind.
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I guess this feature is standard in newer cars, but how to turn off that annoying beeper for seat belts and keys in the ignition? Perhaps there's a wire that can be cut.
After all, I know enough to buckle my seat belt and feel uncomfortable and unsafe if I do not. I don't need to be beeped at to remind me. Plus, I know when I leave the keys in the ignition and exit the car.
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I have to say that I was very worried when I did this. I downloaded the app, it scanned the car, took me to the Carita pro for 20 dollars link.
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They work and no problems latching up. But they "lock" up real quick. Kids almost always get locked to the seat.
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The passenger seat belts on my 2011 do not 'give' a little. When someone shifts in their seat, the belt tightens up (allowing little to no movement)...almost to the point of being uncomfortable. Is this normal/expected behavior? Or do I need to have them looked at?
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The seat belts in a Subaru WRX have been replaced with 4 Point Racing Harnesses. The air bag light now stays on. Does this mean the air bags are inoperable or will they still deploy in case of an accident?
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I have an '05 package 2 and I am replacing the steering wheel. I found that I need to disconnect the battery to replace the airbag, I also read that it is a good idea to remove the SRS relay. Which one is the relay under the hood? additionally I am trying to remove the seatbelts to clean them how do you remove the paneling without breaking the plastic?
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Today I was on a highway traveling at 60 miles an hour. There were no cars in front or on either side and nothing on the road. My foot was on the accelerator and not on the brake. Suddenly the seat belts pulled very tight (I believe that is called "pre-tensioning") and the brakes slammed on without any input from me. The car rapidly decelerated to about 30 miles an hour. Fortunately there was nobody tailgating me. After that everything seemed OK. My vehicle is a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) model 5 which has the technology package.
I took the car to the dealer and they checked the collision avoidance system and said they could not find a problem. The service manager said he has a Camry and it has happened to him once. They had never heard of it happening on a Prius. Apparently Toyota has a bulletin about this for the Camry, but not the Prius. They suggested I turn off the Collision Avoidance System with a switch that is under the dash.
I am not sure whether to turn it off because if I do I lose the adaptive cruise control and collision avoidance, If I leave it on this can happen again possibly causing an accident.
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Took the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
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Four or five years ago, our 2001 Toyota Camry (and my wife and I) had the misfortune of being in a T-bone accident when someone unexpectedly pulled a left turn in front of us and gave us no time to stop. We had the car front-end repaired at a collision repair center, and we were good to go, I thought. As I drove away, I noticed the newly replaced seat belts seemed to "lock" in place at times. They did lock at a sudden stop, as expected, but when entering the car and attempting to put on the seat belts, they would sometimes lock and release, causing me a repeated tug-of-war as I attempted to get enough slack to fasten the belt. This occurred on both the driver and passenger front belts.
Needless to say, I returned the car to the shop, and they cheerfully replaced the belts a second time. When I picked up the car, I first tested the belts, which seemed to perform flawlessly, so I drove home. My joy was short-lived, however, because on the way home, the locking problem returned. I returned to the collision repair shop yet again, and they replaced the belts a third time. The shop foreman personally tested the belts to make sure they worked, and he watched as I did the same. However, yet again, on the way home, the belts would lock unexpectedly.
Through much experimentation, I finally realized that if the car was facing any degree of a downward angle, I could pull the belts very easily and smoothly, yet they locked if I jerked the belts hard. This was as expected. If the car was level or facing an upward angle, however, pulling smoothly on the belt would result in them locking. This seemed very odd to me, and I mentioned it to the collision foreman. He immediately called Toyota to ask about it, and they had never heard of such a symptom.
So, for the past five years, I have been enduring the craziness of getting in my car and doing a repeated pull "negotiation" with the seat belt. I have also noticed that when I begin driving forward, if I will apply the brakes gently, both myself and any passenger can then easily pull the belts and fasten them while the gradual braking is occurring. It doesn't seem to be a safety issue because they do lock on a sudden hard stop, but it is counter-intuitive to me that a gradual braking allows the belts to move freely. Is it possible they could have installed the belts upside down or backwards, or something?
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See my sig for truck.
I have 3 kids in the crewcab. 2 are in booster seats, and 1 still riding in a Britax. The 2 in booster seats can buckle their own seat belts in the wife's Odyssey. But they cannot buckle their own in the truck because as they try to push the 2 pieces together, the short 'female' end slides down between the seat and seatback. So I have to buckle them. Every time.
Anything to prevent the female end from sliding down? I'm thinking maybe putting a ~4" long 1-2" diameter piece of tubing around the belts. Something like that.
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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So I had oil leaking out of my starter so I ended up pulling it and replacing a gasket behind the flywheel... Now the car didn't run because the timing was off by a lot so I jumped a few teeth on the timing chain. Now I have a bunch of white smoke and the car lacks power. It will stall going reverse out of my driveway unless I rev it high. The engine itself has less then 5k miles on it as it's rebuild so I don't think it's a head gasket if it was running fine before I pulled the flywheel off. The idle sounds fine and feels smooth but puffs white smoke. I used a timing gun and adjusted it, and seems on point but now I'm stumped. What could it be? 1972 Honda n600...
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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I brought my 2004 VW Touareg V6(83k miles) to the dealer for a recall on the ignition call and much to my surprise, was presented with a diagnosis of a $6,000 problem! The dealer told me that the computer read some codes which say that the timing chain is stretched and needs to be replaced. They said it will take 4-5 days and should be done asap so it doesn't "go out", because if it does, it's an even more expensive problem. I took the car to another VW repair shop and they asked me if I heard any noised when I start it cold (like pebbles in a bucket). I have not had any problems like that at all, so they said I shouldn't worry until I start getting symptoms. They also said there is no recommended point (like 90,000 miles) when VW recommends the change, so it really shouldn't be a common problem. I want to do the right thing, but I don't want to rush into an expensive repair if it isn't necessary.
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1997 Civic HX, runs great, no motor issue....more like driveline.....Recently picked up a vibration, it just got much worse. My thought is there's a bad CV joint, but I can't find much play.....Was vibrating at 60mph, let of the gas & it goes away.....now, vibrates from the word go as if somethings out of round, if I coast, I now get a thunk/thunk/thunk until I ease back on the gas, then it vibrates. Braking.....out of gear...thunk/thunk/thunk hardcore, braking while in gear I get nothing but less vibes.....Steering wheel does not shake, 4 brand new tires, brakes seem fine.......CV JOINT?? or Something internal?
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