Civic - Honda :: Rough Startup - Oxygen Sensor Gone Bad / Each And Every Cylinder Misfiring
May 25, 2015
This is a 2003 honda civic with about 150k on it. Recently the check engine light came on so I went to Advance auto parts to get my codes read. I got back that the oxygen sensor had gone bad and each and every cylinder was misfiring?
What could be causing the each cylinder to misfire like that? I drive it about 60mi every day and it doesn't seem to drive all that rough. So it's kinda weird that it said every cylinder was misfiring, like how could I even drive it like that?
I heard the oxygen sensor is something I don't have to worry too much about. I could still drive it. The clerk told me to some spray carburetor cleaner on it and that should do something for it.
But recently I've noticed that it starts up rough, seems to strain for about 2-3 seconds then it starts.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic with 65K miles. It's started idling rough and vibrating just on startup when it's been sitting overnight. This continues until I start driving up the road at which time it stops. I ran a fuel cleaner through it and changed the air filter, which was slightly dirty but not too bad. No effect. Then I took it to my Honda mechanic and he said there was nothing wrong with it.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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Had my catalytic converter stolen, along with the trailing O2 sensor. Muffler shop replaced the converter but did not have the correct sensor so had to order it. My understanding is that the trailing sensor is used to assess the efficiency of the converter. I have the leading O2 sensor installed and the car seems to run fine. Driving a 2005 Honda Element 5 speed. Question: am I running the risk of damaging the engine while driving it without the trailing sensor?
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I have a 2005 honda odyssey van and the oxygen sensor light keeps coming on.
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (MAX) ... This had happened before 3x, but was about to turn truck off and wait 10 second and turn back on. Then truck would run fine for months. I found this on my truck manual.
My truck is riding differently. Here's the story - I put new tires on Friday, an hour later, my truck started to ride rough. The light on dashboard is; Check engine, Engine power lost (truck would not get up when this was shown on dash. This error has not come up again), stibilitrac check. Truck's driving performance; Idle sputters (like RPM rising, but they are not, it’s just the engine shaking), once driving when it shifts hard at 3000 RPMs (only 2nd gear). I took my truck to Advance, and this was the error code I received; #6 Cylinder Misfiring and Actuator module.
I changed all spark plugs and number #6 was very dirty compared to the other and smelt very much so like gas. I have not driven this truck only cracked and it stayed in park. I had a person look at it, and he said that the #6 cylinder was the only problem he could find when he hooked up his code thingy. Now he played with everything and took out the #6 spark plug (this is now Tues) and said that it didn't smell of gas like it should have. At the end. he stated that we first should change the Injector for #6. and if that did not correct the problem, then he would recommend the lifters to be replaced. I asked how confident he was about "his" diagnosis. and he stated.... I am not a GM mechanic... wow. now I am confused as to what I should really do! BTW, he never cleared the error codes...
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
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My 99 civic HX (manual trans), makes a noise that is there on start up and while the car is running. It only goes away when I press the clutch in.
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When I turn my key the car makes an awful grinding noise and then starts up fine. What is this and should I have it looked at?
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When I start my 1999 Honda Civic, a sort of sulphury smell comes through the vents. I ended up having my compressor replaced today, and I assumed the smell would be clean, because the a/c is new. (Tells you I don't know much.) Anyway, the smell is still there, along with a smell from the oil (I have a small oil leak) and engine. It all goes away after a minute or two, but is this anything to worry about?
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'96 civic 180k miles. Just had timing belt replaced but has been clicking when cold so mechanic checked & adjusted valves. Still clicks on startup until warm, less than 5 minutes, as it has for the last year or more. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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My friend was replacing the temp sensor on his 2000 Civic, and twisted too hard and it broke off leaving part of the screw still in the hole. I got him a screw extractor kit, and he tried it this morning, and it too broke off. How to get these things out? I'm including a photo.
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1998 Civic HX ... The air temp sensor is held on by threaded devices that seem to have smooth, rounded heads.
How do you get them out? And, they are at the back of the engine so that there is limited space between the engine and firewall.
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I have an 02 Civic EX. Engine light has been on for over a year, runs just fine. Reading misfires on 3 cyl, and cat code. I have since: changed all plugs and coils, changed both front and rear o2 sensors....switched coils around to see if code misfires changed (yes).
I see this is a common problem but no one has a solution..? I'd rather NOT change the cat converter and pay for that only to find out the light stays on. Need to smog so I can sell!
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic that I was given by an elderly neighbor's daughter after the elderly lady went to the grocery and ended up 100 miles away when she could not figure out how to get home. The car was smogged at the beginning of the year but when I got it ran very rough and the temp went nearly to overheating on the drive home when I was stuck in stop and go traffic.I found the radiator fluid level low and an oily residue inside the radiator water bottle. I took it to a mechanic to check it out and was told it had a blown head gasket and maybe worse.
I am thinking of buying a rebuilt cylinder head and replacing it myself but I am not sure how to diagnose if any other damage could have been caused to the engine. It's hard to know but I am guessing that the engine was damaged during the 100 mile road trip due to low coolant level. It turns out short term memory loss was the diagnosis for my elderly neighbor. I filled the coolant level and ran the engine for a bit and the temp stayed normal but the rough running remains. The oil dip stick shows no signs of coolant in the oil and the coolant looks bright green when I looked in the radiator after topping it up with some water.
Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
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I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast. After let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
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