Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
View 3 RepliesMy Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
I have changed the clutch master cylinder on my '03 Honda Accord (6 cyl.) six times in the past 12 months. Either the o ring seal blows out or the bolts holding the plate down breaks off. I bleed the clutch of bubbles until the oil runs through also. What am I doing wrong?, I'm about to send this car packing.
View 9 Replies,My '98 Honda Civic EX (manual 5-speed) is currently at 200,000 miles and makes a gargling/metallic rattling noise when I accelerate from low RPMs or whenever I'm climbing a hill. The noise sounds as if loose change is rattling around somewhere in the engine. I started noticing this a few years ago, when it was very slight and it only happened in second gear as I climbed a steep hill.
Over time, it started happening in third and fourth gear, and now it is in all gears when climbing a hill or when accelerating quickly on level ground. I also notice a lack of power when this noise is occurring. In the past, if I let off the accelerator just a little bit, or if I greatly increased on the gas, the noise would disappear. Now, increasing on the gas makes the sound worse.
Vehicle is an '86 Comanche 2.5L. Tested the battery at standing and charging, came to 12.8 standing and 14.7 charging. The alternator relay clicks, though that doesn't necessarily mean it's in good working order.
Any electrical load applied; headlights, taillights, hazards, blinkers, etc. kill the engine.
The clutch master cylinder is leaking onto the fuse box, though I moved it as best I could as I don't have the funds for a new master cylinder right now and I'm not sure which fuses, capacitors, and relays do what on the fuse box as the writing is barely noticeable.
I bought a new clutch master cylinder for my 1960 Land Rover. I have swapped these in and out and rebuilt or replaced them many times over the years. This is the first time I've seen one fail this way, and it is brand new out of the box. In my opinion, the seal at the back of the cylinder that is supposed to close off the reservoir from the inside of the cylinder, well, isn't. So, it is pushing fluid up into the reservoir instead of down through the lines. Have a look at a this video...... [URL] ....
View 4 RepliesI'm having trouble bleeding the air out of my slave cylinder or master cylinder in my clutch system. I've been trying for a couple days now is there a trick to this?
View 7 RepliesI have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesI spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
I am looking for a how to vid or resource on doing the job right. I purchased the complete replacement master cylinder from Napa. 2002 7.3 Powerstroke
View 3 RepliesI'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder) manual. When upshifting, after pressing the clutch and my foot is OFF the gas, the engine stays at 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling back; often it even INCREASES speed with my foot OFF the gas. This happens only when upshifting/accelerating and even when the car is warmed up. Is it a bad sensor, computer or throttle control?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Accord with about 130k miles on it and the brakes don't have nearly the power that they used to. The pads and rotors are due for replacement but even then, the system is pretty weak. Would replacing the master cylinder? What about simply replacing the brake fluid (I doubt it has ever been changed)? And/or the calipers? The car is in great condition and I really like it so I don't mind investing some time and money to get more years out of it.
View 10 RepliesI've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
Thinking of buying a new civic with mt. One annoying thing is many mt rev higher at speed than automatics.
Tried to find out online how high civic revs, couldn't find it though.
I'm thinking anything over 2500 is going to sound whiny on a long trip.
I have an issue with my 98 honda civic lx, with 197000 mils. Recently I had my Check engine light on. I ignored it for a day. The next day started my car and in the middle of the road it stopped moving, meaning in spite of accelerating it doesn't move. So I stopped at the shoulder, turned off the engine. After a while I started again, the car moved but later on it stopped moving when I was accelerating. The Engine did not turn off during the stall. Couple of weeks back the car was shaking on the front side when I was driving, it felt like the car was about to stop as if it was short of fuel.I changed the spark plug 15000 miles back. Water pump and timing belt was changed 25000 miles back.Car has a highway mileage of 32 mpg.
View 4 RepliesMy 03 civic will drive fine when the engine is cool. But after getting off the highway, or running it at higher speeds, when I put it in gear, any gear, it will start choking and bucking like its running out of gas. Once I get it above about 2000 rpms, the choking stops. The read out said it was the egr valve at first, we had it cleaned, but it didn't fix it. The readout now says recirculation insufficient or something like that. I'm wondering how serious this is, and if I should be driving it.
View 5 RepliesI replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 Civic 3000 miles ago. Now it is pulsing badly again when stepping on the brakes. I can feel the pulse in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. What should I be looking for when I pull off the wheels again.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
View 10 Replies2004 Honda Civic with 166000 miles.
--Had Check Engine light on for a couple days and code reader said P0135. Parts guy said this means "Bank 1", my Haynes book calls this code for " Primary Sensor 1" Is this the same as "Upstream"?
--Replaced O2 sensor (Denso 192400-1160 05F12) myself with a new one (Bosch 15710). Fit perfectly, plugged right in.
--Check engine light goes off for about 5 minutes but comes back on with code P0134.
What should I do now? I replaced the sensor closer to the engine before the catalytic converter. Very easy to reach from the top. I rented the correct tools and did not damage or force anything. Is there a second O2 sensor after the cat that is not so easy to reach? Was that the one I needed to replace? Did I misunderstand the meaning of "upstream" or "Bank 1"?