Civic - Honda :: Remote Flashes Green When Press The Button But Get No Response From Power Locks
Sep 14, 2013
Today I replaced my stock 95 Civic headlights with brighter (more white) halogen bulbs. The installation was fast and easy, however, I've noticed one problem after the installation; the remote power locks are no longer working. The car remote still flashes green when I press the button but I get no response from the power locks.
Because of this the alarm no longer activates when I lock my car from the remote. What could be causing the issue? Are the lights taking up too much power? Do I need a better battery? The lights are a big improvement from the stock lights however its very important for my car to be secure. It's been broken into twice, thieves love to target old Hondas...
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My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
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We just used the car last night. Hard to believe the battery is the issue. The key won't go in the trunk either. All the locks will not work with they key.
Remote wont open doors (it flashes green so battery is fine) and key only goes half way in. Locked out!
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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I have a 2011 Santa Fe. I had to take it in for service in April because the shift lock was not acting correctly. Since I have gotten it back, it will not honk when I press the remote button twice. It did before the service was performed. The lights flash properly and the doors are locked, but I still want it to honk sometimes. Is there something that was turned off that I can turn back on?
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I've been having an issue with my hatch not opening the first several times I press the unlock button on the remote. For reference it's the car door unlock button I'm pressing, not the hatch one as that one has never done anything when I've pressed it.
I thought it was due to the faulty rear view camera I had installed (the emblem pops out) but I just got a new one installed 2 days ago and it's doing the same thing. It's gotten so bad I've had to go open the drivers door and press unlock from inside there to get it open.
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the latch getting stuck or something. I've never had it not close all the way or anything like that which I hear is more common than the issue I'm having. I will take a pic of the pin in the trunk that I'm talking about.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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My 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid has recently taken to beeping when I brake, and the brake light flashes briefly. Doesn't occur all the time; more like intermittent and both the beeping and the light goes off in a matter of seconds. I've been trying to keep an eye on when it happens and I think it happens more frequently when I first start the car.
Took it to a car dealer who said it's the master brake cylinder and the car is leaking brake fluids. They even have to top it off before my husband drove it out of the service center. We of course have not noted any drips in the garage, and have been monitoring the brake fluids and after 3 weeks have not noticed any lost brake fluids. The tank is full.
To replace the master brake cylinder and some miscellaneous repairs such as air filters. It seems to me that if we are leaking brake fluids there should be a drop in the level of fluids in the tank. What to check and perhaps who else besides the dealer to take the car to for more diagnostic testing?
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I kept my car more than 6 days in my garage and today I tried to start my car but, unfortunately smart key did not work. once i kept my hand under the door handle i can here a small click noise but it is not the usual noise and the turn light even did not flash, still the door is locked so i tired to unlock with the mechanical key. Then I enter to the car and i press the break paddle I heard a long motor noise as usual but this is bit longer noise. then i saw my smart key appears on the dash board but the car did not start up . again i tried to on the car I here a knocking noise and the green light on the power button blinks. I tried several times no luck. what will be the problem will it be 12v battery?
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This is a 2009 honda civic lx... AC not working but the button lights go on.... but when I turn the ac or heater on no air comes out, no noise. just complete silence. What might be going on?
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I loved my Honda Accord, leased for 3 years......we decided to downsize, reduce the payment, so this 3 years we got a Honda Civic. I've had some problems, but one that the dealership said was not a problem, as such, but more a feature of the Civic, is the remote opening of the trunk. When you hit the remote, the trunk opens, but it doesn't rise at all, the Accord surely did. When it opens that way, you have packages in your arms, and you can fit your elbow into the space and of course have the trunk go fully open.....the way I have it now, is that it's virtually closed, but it is unlocked. But we still have to put our packages down to get the trunk open, truly open. Cause then it's not standard.....if you're trunk unlocks and goes up 1/2 way, that is what I'm used to......so I think I'm being given the 'they're all that way' when in fact they may not...
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THE PROBLEM: Our Prius 12V aux battery died after my wife left the light on inside the car and instead of buying a new battery, we decided to try jump starting it. My wife tried jump starting our Prius with the neighbors pickup truck and even though I wasn't physically there to witness it, I'm pretty sure that the polarity got swapped during the process. It wouldn't start afterwards, so we went out and bought a brand new 12V aux battery. The prius still will not start. No electric components seem to work (door locks, back brake lights, windows, radio don't work). The dash only shows the orange exclamation mark and the check engine light, nothing else. The power button blinks orange, never goes green.
TROUBLESHOOTING that I've tried:
1. Checked the big 120A fuse right on the positive + terminal. Visibly looked good.
2. Checked all the fuses by the drivers left knee. All tested good with resistance + visible checks.
3. Checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the hood. All tested good EXCEPT the big relay integration fuse under the white plastic cover. It was definitely blown.
4. Replaced the relay integration, still no luck, same exact symptoms.
5. Tried force starting the car in emergency mode by holding the brake and power button down for 15+ secs. The engine starts, but the dash is still dead showing just the check engine light and orange exclamation mark. Can not shift gears or drive.
6. Tried slow charging the NEW battery to get the voltage higher, still no luck. It's testing about 13V with everything off.
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My 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
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2007 Prius is not starting. The power doors, lamps, and headlights work. 12V battering showing 13v on multimeter. When you press power button with/without key FOB in, power button shows green but car does not engage.
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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I was playing with the settings on the Display Audio/Setup/Vehicle settings.
I turned the "Key System with Elec. Key" setting to off.
Now I cannot turn the Power on in the car. I can unlock/lock the car using the buttons on the key FOB.
But when I press the Power button with my foot on the brake, all I get is the red "no key" security indicator on the display.
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We have a 2004 honda civic hybrid, and it is having shifting problems....the drive button blinks when it is in park, and then doesn't engage into drive or reverse. We have a code reader and 2 codes come up...po 700 and po 717. We originally replaced the transmission because those codes were coming up, but it still doesn't work and now we have these two codes. We have read that it could be a sensor...if so, how challenging is that to replace? This all happened when we had the car 1/2 sold. ZERO problems up until the sell day....so obviously we didn't sell it, but want to fix it so we can.
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Just wondering if I should be concerned. It doesn't happen every time, but it sounds like grinding of a gear or something like that. I made a video .....
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Recently, my 2007 Prius will make a "BEEP" when I press the POWER button to shut down the vehicle. This doesn't happen all the time, but only 1 out of 25 times or so. Other than the beep, I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Everything seems to work as normal.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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