Civic - Honda :: Manual Shifter Become Heavy And Sticky
May 28, 2013
My 1998 Civic coupe Si has 160,00 miles and I enjoy her today as much as I did the day I bought her new 15 years ago!Just recently the manual shifting has become heavy and "sticky". Problem popped up almost from 1 day to the next. Not gradual.Still shifts OK, and no other transmission issues.
Second issue: Pinhole in catalytic converter (according to garage). Any way to patch it? Just trying to baby her along without putting too much $ into repair.
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Replaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
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My 1990 Honda Civic DX died in heavy rain. Diagnosis: Need new alternator. Got it. Car immediately started surging loudly whenever idling. Took it back to the shop. 3 mechanics huddled for 3 hours and couldn't figure out what was wrong. Quick fix: Deactivate IAC. They said I should be good for a couple of months. Took one 25-mph drive around the neighborhood. Car ran very rough; panel under steering wheel jolted loose. Made it home but now car won't start. Battery is fine. Wonderful Firestone manager is willing to look at car again. I'm broke after the alternator on top of paying the IRS in April and really want to keep my generally reliable car (only 255,000 miles), at least through the hot South Florida summer.
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before there was a problem in my car like when ever i was accelerating the car i feel that there is a heavy engine sound and i consult the mechanic some said me that the engine mounts to be replaced and some said that spark plug to be replaced [Present ODO Meter is 124,000 km]but now i am feeling that when i am initially accelerating the car ["without turning on AC"] It gives some sound from the silencer and the car is moving slowly and car is shaking when i am turning the AC on it shakes very badly and even though it is moving like a tortoise at the initial stage even though i accelerate later it is moving fast...
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Thinking of buying a new civic with mt. One annoying thing is many mt rev higher at speed than automatics.
Tried to find out online how high civic revs, couldn't find it though.
I'm thinking anything over 2500 is going to sound whiny on a long trip.
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I have a '98 Honda Civic EX with 260K miles on it. Car normally runs better than my newer cars. Yesterday on the way to work, I came up to a stop sign, and the car died. I put it in park and tried to restart several times. It cranked over fine, but sounded like it had no spark. After several attempts, I thought I would just put it in neutral and get it out of the road. I turned they key on and tried to put it in neutral, but the shifter wouldn't unlock. After turning the key on and off what seemed like a hundred times, the unlock button on the shifter finally unlocked. Without even trying to put it in neutral, I turned the key all the way, and the car started right up. I believe this same thing happened to my wife several months ago, except she just told me it died and the engine light came on. Could this be a problem with the ignition switch??
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Honda civic 2008 and I notice that while I accelerate the car at the first time I hear the heavy engine sound while comparing to the other carall the oils have been changed recently.
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We have a 2003 Honda Civic EX with a manual transmission (5spd). Two of my daughters are close to getting their drivers license, however, they don't drive stick and are hesitant to learn how. My wife is asking me how difficult or expensive it would be to have an automatic transmission placed in the car so they can use it. The car is in excellent shape. It only has 67,000 miles. Is this feasible? Why or why not? If it is feasible who could do it?
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic 5-speed with about 200,000 miles. It is making a low-pitched whining noise when I let the clutch out in neutral. I took it to a mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as the throw out bearing. Being mechanically inclined, I dropped the tranny and changed the clutch and bearing, but started it back up, and the noise is still there - as if I did nothing at all. It is not constant volume - sometimes it is louder than others. It is usually loudest first start of the day. I live in Houston, so its not like it is "cold", just not hot. To be fair to the mechanic, the bearing was quite corroded, but everything else seemed to be working properly.
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic DX hatchback with a 5-gear manual transmission that I have been driving since the day it left the dealership. This morning, on my way to work, I was shifting from third gear to fourth gear and the car stalled. This has happened three times in the last month or so. I recently had my transmission fluid flushed. I'm 95 percent sure this started after the transmission fluid was flushed.
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I have a standard transmission 2002 Saturn SL2. While driving in 5 o'clock traffic, I came to a stop light and out of habit glanced over the gage cluster; nothing out of the ordinary. About a minute goes by before the light turns green and as I'm shifting into second gear I notice that the shifter is sticking, almost as if I didn't have the clutch in. I look back down at the gauge cluster and the Engine/Coolant light is flashing and the temperature gauge is trying to go beyond the red. I immediately pull off the road and sit in a parking lot for about 20 minutes. I start it back up and keep an eye on the gauge, and it seems to be running a little hotter than normal, but nowhere near being in the red.
Since then, I've noticed that the temperature runs warmer than what it used to (normally at the first tick mark; it now runs between the first and second tick mark), and occasionally runs right at the second mark. At first, I was thinking that the thermostat may have temporarily been sticking/not opening, causing that initial overheating. But the engine clearly runs hotter, making me wonder if it's not the thermostat, but something else. I'm good with my oil. And am wondering if it could possibly be transmission fluid; but I don't know if the sticky shifter is significantly part of the main problem, or just a result of the overheating, or possibly just a coincidence.
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I'm not sure if it's a missing bolt or another issue, but my shifter just started becoming "sticky" while in neutral. Sticky meaning when I go to slide it side to side while in neutral it's slow, and it's slow to return to the middle when I release it on the left just under 1st (while in neutral). I noticed that I can pull up on the shifter and it actually lifts and glides easily then, but add I shift over the day it pushes back down and repeats. Goes into and out of gear ok, I hear some grinding nose even in neutral unless I lift up on the shifter.
Side note that may be unrelated, my hand break stopped laying flat when disengaged. I it pops up slightly causing the break light to come on. Both began about the same time.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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It's been going on for awhile now...shifter hangs up to one side or the other instead of self recentering when put in neutral. I have checked the interior and there is no dirt of grime on the white nylon ball that the shifter floats on and it was also lube with some white lithium spray (liquid wrench). Checked under the hood. All connections are good and solid and free from any obstructions. Trans fluid was changed 10k miles ago. Not sure what else to check.
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last night I was on my way to work and had the car in forth traveling about forty-five. A light ahead of me turned red and I held the clutch in until I had stopped. I shifted into what I thought was first. I discovered that regardless of the shifter position, the transmission left it in forth gear. Barely got it moving from a stop and brought it back home.
Looking under the car, I don't know exactly what the linkage mechanism looks like. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been disconnected or misaligned. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission itself either. The shifter moves to other positions freely, but in actuality it stays locked in forth gear.
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I cannot locate a picture of where the manual 4wd shifter mounts up to the transmission.
I am finishing up 4wd'ing my F550, but am not exactly sure how the shifter bolts up. Can someone take their boot and bezel off and take a couple photos of how the shifter mounts to the 5R100W by any chanc?
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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I have a 2008 Honda Fit. It is a manual transmission. I'd like to convert it to an automatic. Is this possible?
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I have a 1992 Honda Accord with an automatic transmission and recently I've started having some problems. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that, when I parked my car and put the shifter in "Park", the shifter became locked in this position. In other words, I cannot release the shifter from "Park" unless I use the car key to unlock the shifter. So, I started parking my car in neutral (there are few hills in my area) so that I didn't have to unlock the shifter each time. Occasionally I park the car in "Reverse" (after turning the car off), although I have to put the car in neutral to start it up.
Today I started my car and noticed that I had very little acceleration. In fact, when I was on a slight incline, waiting to pull out into an intersection, it was difficult to keep my car from rolling backward. Also, when I pulled out into the intersection, it accelerated very slowly and took much longer than usual to get up to normal speed. However, after the car sat for 5 hours afterward, I started it and it began accelerating normally once again. This is the first time I've had this problem with the car.
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I bought a 2004 Honda Accord over the summer. Now the the weather is cooler, I drive with the windows down, and I have noticed there is a "clack" sound when I change gears. It is hard to describe the sound, but it sounds like someone hitting a plate of metal with a hammer. I only hear this sound in first, second and third gear. The engine gets too loud in fourth and fifth gear, so it may just be drowning out the "clack".
I never remember hearing such a sound when I drove a manual transmission back in the late 90s. Is this sound an indicator of a problem? Do I need to take the car into a shop to have them take a look at it?
Additional Information:
Mileage: 106,000I am not the original owner, I purchased it at CarMax, and there was only one owner for the entire life of the car until CarMax bought it. The car looks like it was really cared for by the original owner. CarMax said that the clutch was fine, but...you never know with salesmen.
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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