Civic - Honda :: Key Fob Only Opens Or Locks Passenger Side Doors But Not Driver Side
Jul 30, 2014
I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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Driver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
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The driver side lock has jammed on my 2008 Mercury Milan Premier. Now I have to open my door by rolling down my window to get to the outside latch!
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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I get a rub sound when I am only going about 5 miles an hour and usually when turning left. I sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side and near the back. It makes this sound only once in awhile. Sounds like a body rub kind of sound. I have newer tires and they look fine and my shocks appear to be ok. I don't see anything wedged up under there either. This car only has about 88,000 miles on it and is in nice condition best I can tell. It is a 2007 Honda ex sedan.
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My car spun on ice, did a 360 and hit the barrier rail of the bridge. The rear bumper was all scraped up and got pushed pushed out on the passenger side. I've replaced it but I've been hearing a thumping noise from the passenger side tire (not sure rear of front) and this is only noticeable on expressway with smooth asphalt and only under wet conditions. The alignment was done after the accident but after taking the car to several service locations they did not hear any noise (we were driving in wet conditions.)
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My front passenger door will not unlock when i activate the locks from the driver's side door- all other locks (driver's door, back seat, trunk) do unlock when activated (from both inside and out). When I try to use the locking feature on the passenger door it does not respond, nor does it respond the the key fob. The only way I can unlock my passenger door is manually. Is this something I can fix at home?
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2008 Honda Civic LX. The car has approximately 37,000 miles on it, most of which are highway miles. I live about 400 miles from home and thus, most of those miles have been accumulated from the 4 years of me driving back and forth to school during breaks, etc.
Recently, I've noticed a slight squeak from the front driver's side wheel. It's rhythmic with the rotation of the car and is only audible with the window down (you can't hear it when the window is up). It's most prevalent at really slow speeds, when the car is just rolling forward and then dissipates as I accelerate.
I just had it in for service about two months ago, the usual stuff: I had the oil changed and the tires rotated at the local Honda dealership. I still have the inspection paperwork they did on it and everything checks out. The brakes were shown to be just fine (7mm on the front two) and it's also not coming from the engine itself, thus ruling out the belt, etc.
To make things even more complicated the noise comes and goes. Last night I drove around trying to isolate it but found no consistency. It started right away as I drove away from my apartment, but then randomly went away only to reappear again, this time barely audible as I parked.
Other details: I park the car outside, and I live up in Northern Minnesota. It's gotten cold recently, and with the wind we get up here the dust really gets kicked up. The noise just started appearing last weekend as well.
I've done some preliminary research, and would hope that after 37,000 miles the car's front bearing isn't going bad. My game plan for today was to get it washed, in case there's some build up on the wheel, and then try and spray it with 4D-40.
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My 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
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My 1999 Honda Civic has a leak where the plastic meets the rug by the drivers side floor. It is a about 7-9" from where the driver door opens. It only happens when it rains. I tested the moon roof drain hoses. They work fine. What is causing this?
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic Si with a clicking noise that appears to be emanating from the front passenger side. It appears to be "rotational" in nature. This noise is very similar to that one might hear when a CV joint is going out but it's heard when going forward. My mechanic (whom I trust) has been unable to fix this problem. Over the course of approximately 4 months they've:
1. Repacked the wheel bearings on both front wheels.
2. Replaced the strut mount
3. Replaced the carrier bearing with a used one.
4. Verified that all brakes are tight and working properly, and 5. Replaced the axle 4 times with both new and rebuilt versions.
Some things I've noticed:
1. The noise might not appear until the car is warmed up a bit, that is, driven 10 to 20 miles
2. It goes away when I apply the brakes but comes back immediately.
3. It occurs even when the engine is turned off and I'm coasting down a slight slope. My mechanic is unsure how to proceed and the noise is driving me crazy.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic and just recently, when the car turns right, a grinding sound emanates from the wheel.It sounds like the break pads rubbing up against the disk but this only happens on turns or if I stop, and put the car in reverse briefly.Could this be an issue with the calipers or would this likely be a wore out wheel bearing?I have heard a faint whistle coming from the tire when driving down the freeway but that is also intermittent and I don't hear the occasional whirring sound typical of a worn out bearing.I'll pull the wheel off today and check it out but I thought I'd bring it up and see what the group thinks.
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic that was making noise on the front passenger side wheel and what sounded like the front driver side strut clanging (bottoming out) when I hit a bump, sharp right turn heading down hill, or hit a pot hole (small or large). I brought it in to a mechanic to diagnose the issue. They told me I had a bad wheel bearing and also needed new struts. They quoted me a price on parts and labor that I thought was too high, so I checked a few other mechanics to make sure that I needed the work and try to get a better quote. All said the same work needed to be done, so I eventually had them repaired.
My car seems to ride better and I don't hear the noise from the front passenger side wheel anymore or the noise from the front driver side strut, however, there is now a clunking like sound coming from the front suspension (left and right sides). It sounds kind of like something might be loose. I can hear it over slight bumps, and when turning whether I'm going slow or even coming out of a parked spot.
Is there something else that may need repair after having all this other work done? Have I caused a "needed repair chain reaction" or something?
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I have a 98 honda civic with greater than 200,000 miles on it. I've only had it for a couple of months now and for the whole time it has driven great. I do need to change the oil and was getting ready to do that this coming weekend but today when i was driving it, it kind of bogged down then was fine. Then it did it again and just died. I then restarted it and it was fine for a few seconds and i was going in reverse, then it did it again and died again. Now it wont start at all. It turns over but just doesnt start. Also there is like a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the dashboard on the passenger side.
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My girlfriend's 2002 Honda Civic. Whenever she and I make a turn in it, a clunking sound is heard and felt on the front passenger side in the area of the floorboard, and it seems to come from an area between the seat and the wheel well and seems to be getting slowly but surely/progressively worse/more noticeable as time passes. I checked underneath the car earlier today, and there aren't any observable leaks to report anywhere.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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I recently had battery go dead from just setting, not being used. Battery now charged and working fine, however as a result, when I push the Keyfob the drivers side door opens. When I push the second time to open remaining doors, I hear a click, but the doors do not open.
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After getting my car washed on Friday I noticed that the key fob no longer opens the passenger door. It used to be that pressing the unlock button twice would open both doors. Is it possible that some combination of buttons or something caused this to stop working? The button in the door unlocks the passenger door just fine.
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On the passenger side where the door opens up the paint seems to be scraping off... It's pretty noticeable on my black car. It's only this one side.. The door doesn't touch that piece so I'm not sure what caused it.
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I can open all the doors if I press the unlock button on the driver's side. However, suddenly, the remote (both remotes) will unlock only the driver's door & the trunk, but not the passenger & rear doors.
Locking the door manually with the key did nothing. We just replaced the car's battery (it's been 5 years), but that didn't solve the problem with the keyless entry remote. One of the remotes is rarely used (1x/week), so I'd be astonished if both keyless entry remotes needed batteries at the same second.
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