I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast. After let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
View 1 RepliesI had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
View 10 RepliesOk I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
When i got my 2000 jetta vr6 it has a CEL for misfires. Searched this board and google already. Im thinking injectors (havent checked yet) I noticed something weird the other day. At a light i get the CEL flashing. Then after a bit it will come on and stay on. I plugged in my generic reader and deleted the codes. When the CEL is on I get loss of power and hesitation. When its deleted the car runs better. I get my power back. I looked in the coolant tank and see no bubbles. Could this be the ECM? Im still going to get injectors but want to buy the gasket and anything else I am going to need to put it back together. I already cleaned the MAF, replaced some vac lines, coil pack, wires and checked plugs (gapped at .28) ...
View 4 RepliesHaving 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
View 3 RepliesI was driving along and the engine started missing really bad. The whole car was bouncing around. At first I thought I had a flat, but when I stopped I noticed it was the engine. I checked the error codes and got 16684 and 16686 --- Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.
I had a problem recently with the vacuum hose broken and was causing an error code. Replace the hoses and it has been fine. Checked to make sure that the hoses were secure and they are fine. Doesn't seem to me to be related. So many problems for a car with 57,500 miles
I have an 02 Civic EX. Engine light has been on for over a year, runs just fine. Reading misfires on 3 cyl, and cat code. I have since: changed all plugs and coils, changed both front and rear o2 sensors....switched coils around to see if code misfires changed (yes).
I see this is a common problem but no one has a solution..? I'd rather NOT change the cat converter and pay for that only to find out the light stays on. Need to smog so I can sell!
I have a 2001 Honda CRV with about 140,000 miles. It is an upstate NY car, so has seen its share of salt and rough winter driving, has a little bit of rust.
I recently brought it in for repairs because it was overheating. It was over the holiday weekend and I had a job interview to get to so I brought it a chain, which was the only open mechanic I could find. They told me there was a coolant leak and replaced the radiator.
The next day, the check engine came on. Cylinder misfire code. I took it back to them and they wouldn't give me a straight answer on what was going on but insist they told me that would happen and it needed more repairs which I had apparently refused. They told me it's probably the spark plugs/wires are old but maybe there's more damage, but basically that they didn't want to deal with it.
So I brought the car to my regular guy. He says, yeah it needs a tune-up. So he replaces the spark plugs and wires etc and gives it back. I drove it for a day and the light came back on. So I brought it back to him again and he refused to do anything. Wouldn't give me some possible causes or explanations, just says come pick it up. Didn't say stop driving it, take it to a dealer, he just reset the check engine light and said its probably fine.
The next time I drove the car, while it was warming up the check engine light was flashing. By the time the engine was warm the light had stopped flashing and was on.
My 2005 Honda Accord randomly loses all power during city driving (25 MPH or less and sometimes while approaching a stop). The dashboard, radio, etc. go black, engine stops, and power steering and locks go out. The first couple times, it restarted immediately and drove fine. The past couple times, it did not restart right away.
After waiting a bit and taking the key out of the ignition, we were able to turn on the interior lights, A/C, and radio, and then the car started fine. The car was involved in a frontal collision a few weeks prior to all of this starting. The driver's headlight was damaged, and at least one fuse had to be replaced. We have taken it to the dealer several times. They ran diagnostic tests and drove it around, trying to duplicate the problem -- without success.
The check engine light is on in my 1996 Honda Civic. The code for it is P1382, which is supposed to be either a misfire or the ignition control system. It runs fine most of the time, but intermittently cuts out while I am driving sometimes. I have replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter and the check engine light actually went off after replacing the fuel filter, but came back on the second time I drove the car. The distributer was replaced not quite a year ago with a reman distributor.
View 2 RepliesI have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
I am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 FX2 5.4L F150. Recently it began to lose power on a friend driving it out of town. He got a check engine light then it just progressively became unable to produce power. It ran but he got down to 10 mph before he could get to a firestone. I got it to a local Ford dealer and they say i need a new engine. They gave me codes for cam sensor and timing and #5 and #6 misfire. (344, 345)
No oil in radiator, no water in oil. The crazy thing is it runs like the day i bought it in Park. But once in gear it begins to cough and then eventually shudders and dies. I haven't changed plugs ever. I know... At about 75 miles it began to idle rough at times and in reverse. But once I revved up it went away.
I replaced both cam sensors but no luck. Today i put it on a tow truck to get a second opinion from a local engine shop. I actually backed it down my driveway, and pulled up to the tow truck with no issues. weird...
I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
Have an 06 F150 5.4 3v with no power. spark knock. rough idle. wants to die while driving, and random misfire code. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, coils and plugs. What to check next? Already thought of EGR - it doesn't have one.
View 4 Replies1999 Passat 2.8L. New coil pack assembly, wires, plugs, valve cover gasket(oil in plug holes). Misfire at idle and low rpm. Driving at higher rpm's misfire seems to go away. Codes are random misfire and cyl 1 misfire. Need to know if I would get an injector code if a fault or If that motor has problem with faulty cams or springs or any other common problems. I am going to do a compression check this weekend I'll update that info.....
View 9 RepliesReplaced my water pump March 2nd using the "From Below" method. Started the car after and the check engine light was on and water pump was no longer leaking. I drove the GTI to Advance (15 Mins away) it drove fine and I pulled two codes.
P0300 - Random Multiple/Cylinder Misfire
P0301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
The car pulled and drove normally. The next day the car is misfiring badly. Hesitation and bucks when accelerating until roughly 3k then smooths out.
I will swap my coilpacks and check if the misfire moves as soon as I can get my hands on an OBD2 Scan Tool.
From what I understand about the VR6 :
-The water pump runs off the serpentine belt
-Camshaft timing is controlled by the timing chain.
-Timing chain is not affected by the serpentine belt/pulleys.
Questions :
-Can turning the Crankshaft Pulley affect timing?
-Can that be the cause of the misfire?
24V VR6
About a month ago my wife's 2000 Jetta with the VR6 engine in it started acting up and throwing codes. The codes it threw were for random misfire, misfire in cylinder 2, and misfire in cylinder 5. Starting out, we changed spark plugs, fuel filter, and made sure the injectors were clean.
The problem didn't go away so we water tested the coil and wires, but they passed that test. The wires were quite old and out of spec, while the coil was in-spec across all terminals, according to the vehicle service manual, so we installed some new OEM leads this weekend. While installing the leads we noticed a disconnected vacuum line and reconnected that as well.
The vehicle was driving great for two and a half days, then today while I was sitting at a stop light, it started missing really badly and felt like it was going to kill. It did this for about 5 seconds, then recovered and ran smooth for about 5 seconds, before getting really rough until I started driving when the light changed. It didn't do it when I drove it a few hours later at all. This episode didn't throw any codes either.
What could be causing this issue? Would the MAF cause the intermittent missing, or is it possible that the computer is going bad?
What is going on with my sisters passat 2002 V6 GLX Auto 4Motion. Here is the codes:
16730-Camshaft Position Sensor (G163) Implausible Signal
P0346-35-00
16684-Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300-35-00
16688-Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304-35-00
16690- Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected
P0306-35-00
16689-Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305-35-00
I changed Both sensors and it still same problem. Car only has 40,000 miles didnt change timing belt.