Civic - Honda :: 2012 - Tires Go Flat / Pop And Shred While Driving
Dec 7, 2012
I've read from quite a few places online that other 2012 Honda Civic owners were having tires go flat, pop and shred while driving (Granted that this is probably the most common car issue that any one faces). The Honda is my wife's car and is less then a year old. I change her flat and checked the other tires ALL of which were dangerously low on air. Seems strange that so many of the same vehicles with low mileage are reporting having the same issues. (Firestone Affinity Tires)...
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Why a 2012 Honda Civic might catch on fire? I have had it since October 2012, and it had a little over 4,000 miles on it. Yesterday I was driving it for 15 minutes, and it began smoking, and something was on fire under the hood. It is NOT one of the ones that was recalled for the faulty O-ring that caused oil leakage. I checked, and my car is not under recall for anything. Just out of nowhere it catches on fire while I am driving??? What is up with that???
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Just yesterday I was driving my 2012 Cvic down a hill and the battery and oil light came on. Not but 5 seconds later as I came to the bottom of the hill my brakes went out (the car didn't cut off) so I pulled up the parking brake and cut the car off.
I started to call for roadside assistance but before I did I thought to try to start her up again and boom! Everything works fine! What could have caused this?? Computer system in the car? Brake fluid? Also just two weeks earlier I had full minor service on her. Tire rotation, oil/filter change, brake fluid added etc.
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I have a 2007 honda civic lx 4doors my problem is that when the car is sitting overnight the battery gets almost flat when I drive the car in the day everything is perfect I get test the battery starter n the alternator everything is find what is the problem here....
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Car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
My car was inspected yesterday. I needed the A pipe replaced (exhaust pipe connected to the muffler) and a radiator leak repaired or maybe the radiator replaced. I'm in dire straits, and this was paid for by a charity. I really need my car, as I will have nowhere to stay as of this coming Saturday. Anyway, the repairs were made and the car passed inspection.
I drove off, made a stop somewhere, happened to glance at one of my tires, and noticed deep cracks in it. Odd that I hadn't noticed these before, because I've had trouble with dry rot before. These are top-of-the-line tires (bought back when I had money as an investment against skidding accidents), but they're four years old now.
Granted, I needed it to pass inspection, but would it pass with tires that have dry rot? The first time I had dry rot, the cracks were barely noticeable and had to be pointed out to me. (That time, they were only one year old, within the warranty period and so got replaced.) This time, the cracks are much bigger and deeper, and in all the tires (easy to see, once I looked). Now I'm worried that I'll have a blowout very soon.
Not much I can do about it with no money, but I'd like to at least know what to expect. Seriously, if the cracks are that bad, wouldn't the mechanic fail it for inspection?
Last question: Is dry rot the same thing as weather cracking? Is weather cracking dangerous?
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Sunday I had a new set of tires put on my Civic. They told me that one of the four Tire Pressure Monitoring System sensors was bad and that they'd have to order me a new one. I drove home that day with the TPMS light on, which was expected.
This morning I went back to the shop and they replaced the bad sensor. However, after resetting, and doing whatever else it is they did with the handheld computer thing a half-dozen times, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light is not only on, but blinking. (The TPMS light is off). They drove it around, they checked it with their computer thing again, they plugged in the handheld thing to reset it, went around and did something at each of the tire stems multiple times, but no matter what they did, the light wouldn't (and won't) stop blinking.
"If it doesn't stop on its own, you might have to bring it to a Honda Dealer."
Seriously?
I used to have an old Aurora that would turn on the engine light every time a reading went slightly out of whack, and after so many ignition key turns (on and off) the light would turn off on its own. Is that the case here? Or is this light going to blink forever until I go to the Honda Dealer?
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I took my 2007 (manual!) Honda Civic LX to a local car shop last Friday because it wanted its oil change, oil filter change, tire rotation, and spark plugs etc. checked. When I got the car back, I drove it around for a little while and noticed a noise that is periodic and speed-dependent -- as in, the frequency goes up when I am going faster and slows down when I am going slower.
I've since checked the air pressure and while one tire was a little low, the tires are all at the right pressure now, and the noise hasn't gone away. I also feel like there is more vibration in the steering wheel now than there used to be. I think the sound is coming from the front driver's side, but I'm not sure about that.
Obviously I should take it to the car shop and give the guys the what for, right? But what should I be asking them about? What could have happened? It also happens to be the case that on the 4th of July, someone backed into the front of my car with a moving truck and a couple of parts on the front of the car needed to be replaced. But I had
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Whenever I make a sharp (think turning into driveway) turn left or right, my car makes a knocking noise. Not a clicking, but I recreated the noise by knocking 2 plastic cups together. 2012 Honda Civic LX.
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I'm not sure if this is a stupid question or not, but can tire misalignment cause flat tires? I ask because earlier tonight my drivers side tire went flat as I was taking off from a red light. The tire doesn't look damaged from the outside. I put the spare on, which looked practically new since I had never used it, but within three miles the spare went flat.
When I got my tires rotated a few weeks ago I noticed a slight pull to the right, but after a day or two I stopped noticing it. I'm not sure if I just got used to it, or if it was just me not being used to the new tires.
I am having the tire patched tomorrow, but The thought that the misalignment might be causing this has just stuck itself in my head and won't go away.
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car stalls out while driving, seems like the whole system shuts down lights stay on. Put diagnostics on it.Took to garage, couldn't find the problem. New plugs, checked distributer, all ok.
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About a week ago I was driving my 1995 Honda Civic, which normally runs GREAT, and in an instant and with no warning the check engine light came on, it suddenly lost power no matter how much gas I gave it, and it died going down the road. In the middle of the road I tried to crank it and it wouldn't crank. Very quickly the battery died and I wound up towing it to a service station. I thought, its got to be the alternator, right? But the mechanic said it was my battery not the alternator, so I replaced it, paying $145 for a battery change and a "diagnostics" test I probably could have done in the Autozong parking lot.. 'cept I'm a girl and I don't like to do those kinds of things. Anyway, battery in, all fixed I thought.
I drove it a week and made a 150 mile trip and in the last ten miles going down the highway at 70MPH, same thing. All of the sudden with no warning engine light comes on, it looses power no matter how much gas I gave it, I pull over and I'm stranded. I thought maybe it was the alternator after all, so I turned the lights and radio and wipers off (night and raining) and tried to crank it. It cranked up slowly after flooring it a few times, which really didn't seem to do that much like it would if it was flooded. Anyway, the car cranks, I drive a little further and again.. same thing. I pull over as I'm dying, repeat. Again, pull over, repeat. I tried several times to crank the car by popping the clutch like if the battery died, but that wouldn't crank it. I literally had to turn off the ignition switch, turn it back on and crank the car, then it would run another mile or so. After the fifth time pulling off the road I decided to put it in neutral, turn off the switch, turn it back on and crank it without even stopping and it worked until it shut off again with the same pattern as the first time. I finally made it home and got it to a service station today. I did notice that if I drove under 40MPH it would make it a short distance, but it did almost shut off twice while going to the service station.
I haven't heard back from them yet, I'm just wondering how scared I should be before I call them and i would like to have some knowledge since they told me once after diagnostics that it was the battery.
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I have a manual 2000 Honda civic that is acting up. When I drive it after about 15mins it gets really hot. Then right before I pull over it starts to cool off if I have the heat pumping . It also seem to over heat when ever I am sitting idle . I replaced the radiator and thermostat but I'm still having the problem.
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My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
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I have a 2012 Honda Civic, with only 4500 miles on it. When slowing and turning i have a hesitation. It does this about 6 out of 10 times. When pulling into traffic, this can be scary. I have asked the dealer about said problem, but told it's just because its new and will get better when i get some miles on it. No way do i believe that. Not sure where to turn. I might add this is an automatic transmission.
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I bought a 2012 honda civic HF, now has 1000 miles. I hear a clunk when I release the pedal. I heard the same noise on another car that was on the dealer's lot. The dealership has not been useful with fixing this issue; they said the clunk is normal. Honda has not been all that supportive. What is making this sound and what can I do about this?
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The heater in my car only blows hot air when I'm driving fast. At stop signs it blows cold. You can imagine how this affects my driving strategy. What the problem might be?
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
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I took my car to a nearby repair shop. They replaced the rear brake pads and resurfaced the rear rotors. When I left, I felt and heard clunking while driving. Initially I thought it was just stuff rolling around in the trunk. As I drove on, I realized it must be something the shop did. It sounded like metal scraping metal every time the tire rotated and started making terrible sounds when I hit the brakes. I stopped to take a look. It looked like the rotor or something behind it had ripped. What happened here? It's a 2006 Honda Civic EX. Picture hopefully attached.
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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Several months ago one of my 20" toyo tires was flat when I came out of work. Being a high school teacher, I thought that perhaps it was a students involved situation. That came as a surprise in that as a teacher of over 37 years, nothing has ever happened to any of my vehicles, while parked at school. Also I found it strange that they would let air out and put the chrome valve cap back on. Well, over the weekend, the same thing happened, with the car parked in my garage. So in both instances the tires went flat, I filled them back up and they held air. This happened months apart.
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