Civic - Honda :: 2012 - Make Noise When Brake Applied?
Jan 15, 2013
I bought a 2012 honda civic HF, now has 1000 miles. I hear a clunk when I release the pedal. I heard the same noise on another car that was on the dealer's lot. The dealership has not been useful with fixing this issue; they said the clunk is normal. Honda has not been all that supportive. What is making this sound and what can I do about this?
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
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I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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Whenever I make a sharp (think turning into driveway) turn left or right, my car makes a knocking noise. Not a clicking, but I recreated the noise by knocking 2 plastic cups together. 2012 Honda Civic LX.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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I have problem with left front brakes corolla. When I changed the router it was fine, but after few month, during down hill when I apply brake, right side make lot of noise. I cleaned pads and pin are good. It happens only on right side, down hill is problem.
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A mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.
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My 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid has recently taken to beeping when I brake, and the brake light flashes briefly. Doesn't occur all the time; more like intermittent and both the beeping and the light goes off in a matter of seconds. I've been trying to keep an eye on when it happens and I think it happens more frequently when I first start the car.
Took it to a car dealer who said it's the master brake cylinder and the car is leaking brake fluids. They even have to top it off before my husband drove it out of the service center. We of course have not noted any drips in the garage, and have been monitoring the brake fluids and after 3 weeks have not noticed any lost brake fluids. The tank is full.
To replace the master brake cylinder and some miscellaneous repairs such as air filters. It seems to me that if we are leaking brake fluids there should be a drop in the level of fluids in the tank. What to check and perhaps who else besides the dealer to take the car to for more diagnostic testing?
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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My girlfriends 2013 Hyundai Accent is having some problems. Yesterday, the Check Engine Light came on, but went out on its own maybe 15 minutes later. She did not feel that the car was running any differently.
This morning, after the car being parked through the night with the parking brake applied (she usually does not apply the parking brake), she observed that it still felt like the brake was applied when she tried reversing out. I told her to pull and release the brake a few times, but she said it was no luck.
What this might be?
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I was stopped, turning my steering wheel to do a hard turn to get out of my parked position, as I turned my wheel I heard a THUNK.Then I reversed, got out of park, then went into drive and proceeded to drive to work. I noticed at every light, when I was stopped with my foot on the break, there was a new RATTLE in the vicinity of the front right tire, where I had heard the thunk. The rattle only occurs when the break is applied.
What could this be? The car is still under warranty, do I need to head straight to the dealership and "not pass Go"?
The Honda Jazz (Fit is the name in the US) is a 2010.
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I have a 2012 Rav4 and I have been hearing a creaking/groaning sound coming from the front left brake when I apply it lightly. It gets worse as it heats up. It sounds exactly like the brake in this youtube video.
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I have this problem of my in dash cluster flickers and dims at the same time? Also the green lights on indicator flickers and disappears? Took it to the Dealer and put in a new multi function switch, but still does the same thing?
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Why a 2012 Honda Civic might catch on fire? I have had it since October 2012, and it had a little over 4,000 miles on it. Yesterday I was driving it for 15 minutes, and it began smoking, and something was on fire under the hood. It is NOT one of the ones that was recalled for the faulty O-ring that caused oil leakage. I checked, and my car is not under recall for anything. Just out of nowhere it catches on fire while I am driving??? What is up with that???
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I have no brake lights on my 2000 Honda Civic EX. Its a two door five speed. I have checked the brake light switch and it has power in and out. Light bulbs are all good. All the grounds are good that I have been able to find. I have power to the PCM on the brake wire, but no power coming out. I spliced the wires thinking this would solve the problem and it didn't. I am at the end of my rope. No blown fuses and the tail light and cruise works fine.
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I've read from quite a few places online that other 2012 Honda Civic owners were having tires go flat, pop and shred while driving (Granted that this is probably the most common car issue that any one faces). The Honda is my wife's car and is less then a year old. I change her flat and checked the other tires ALL of which were dangerously low on air. Seems strange that so many of the same vehicles with low mileage are reporting having the same issues. (Firestone Affinity Tires)...
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Just yesterday I was driving my 2012 Cvic down a hill and the battery and oil light came on. Not but 5 seconds later as I came to the bottom of the hill my brakes went out (the car didn't cut off) so I pulled up the parking brake and cut the car off.
I started to call for roadside assistance but before I did I thought to try to start her up again and boom! Everything works fine! What could have caused this?? Computer system in the car? Brake fluid? Also just two weeks earlier I had full minor service on her. Tire rotation, oil/filter change, brake fluid added etc.
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I have a 2012 Honda Civic, with only 4500 miles on it. When slowing and turning i have a hesitation. It does this about 6 out of 10 times. When pulling into traffic, this can be scary. I have asked the dealer about said problem, but told it's just because its new and will get better when i get some miles on it. No way do i believe that. Not sure where to turn. I might add this is an automatic transmission.
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I recently had some work done on my 97 Honda Civic (manual), and asked them to adjust the parking brake while they were at it. They tightened it up as they usually do when they work on the car (the other work was not brake-related, although they DID replace my master cylinder just back in February). Two days later, my brakes began to fail (much like they had when I needed the master cylinder replaced). Turns out, something happened with the parking brake such that the cables seized or something and caused the regular brakes to overheat. Once they cooled down, the regular brakes were fine again, so they disconnected one of the cables for the parking brake and ordered replacement cables to be installed next week, for a not inconsequential sum. My question is: did they screw up when they adjusted the parking brake, such that I shouldn't really have to pay the full amount for this subsequent repair? Or was this likely inevitable?
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99 Civic drum brake problem I was trying to replace the brake shoes on my 99 civic LX and having a hard time getting the drum off. It was very rusty so I had to resort to using two 8mm bolts. I started driving them in a little at a time and heard a couple of pops. I though this was just the drum coming loose, but after it came loose I still couldn't pull it off and there were two very corroded broken pins on the back side of the back plate. This isn't normal is it? Now I'm wondering should I keep trying to pull off the drum? Or is it possible that the shoes had rusted to the inside of the drum and when I drove the 8mm bolts in I was pulling on the shoes themselves, or something else inside, as well as the drum? If something has gone wrong should I keep trying to get the drum off to address the problem or should I just put it back together and take it to a professional?
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