Civic - Honda :: 2010 - Sluggish Door Locks / Motors Not Getting Enough Power
Sep 18, 2016
So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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I now have 2 doors (driver and left rear doors) that have sluggish power door locks. They sometimes work, but always have energy when operated.
I'm thinking that maybe it's a connector with resistance and causing a voltage drop since it's on both doors on the same side of the car.
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Today I replaced my stock 95 Civic headlights with brighter (more white) halogen bulbs. The installation was fast and easy, however, I've noticed one problem after the installation; the remote power locks are no longer working. The car remote still flashes green when I press the button but I get no response from the power locks.
Because of this the alarm no longer activates when I lock my car from the remote. What could be causing the issue? Are the lights taking up too much power? Do I need a better battery? The lights are a big improvement from the stock lights however its very important for my car to be secure. It's been broken into twice, thieves love to target old Hondas...
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Since yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
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I have approximately 45K miles on my 2013 GLS. For some time, I've noticed that when raising the driver door power window, it slows down and becomes sluggish about 1/2 way up, almost like it's struggling. When wet, it's worse and will start vibrating while being raised. I've tried WD40 in the window track, but that's not a permanent solution. Oddly enough, I had the same trouble with my 2001 Elantra over the life of the car.
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I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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Have a feeling it may be the actuator or the motors in the door. One by one, the power locks on my prius are not responding to the remote or the lock button on the door. The headlights no longer respond to the remote as well. Pressing the remote just causes the car alarm to chirp 4-5 times.
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I have a 2002 civic. The key fob only opens or locks the passenger side doors but not the driver side doors. Worse still, the key does not work in the lock so I have to use the fob to open the passenger side and climb in to open my drivers door. Having said that the key won't open the door lock, it will do only occasionally. I might try it 20 times with no luck and on the next attempt it opens it as if there was never a problem in the first place... My priority is to get the fob to operate all of the doors. I have tried the simple things like changing the battery of the fob and resetting the key.
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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We have a Honda Civic 2009 two door. You can only put a key in the driver's side door or use that clicker to open it. About two weeks ago we could no longer open the door due to the key only going in halfway. If the door is locked only the clicker can be used. so if the battery goes on that and the door is locked, well, that is not good. My spouse took the car to the Honda dealership and they wanted to replace the whole lock system. Of course the car just went over 36,000 miles so the warranty is out. My aunt said to just try lubricant in the lock.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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My 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
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I have a 2013 Gen 3 Prius II. 55k miles. Purchased brand new 2.5 years ago so I am out of warranty by mileage unfortunately.
One by one over the past two months three of my door locks have stopped functioning. Front left, front right, and back right. Sometimes if it isn't too hot outside my driver's door will work. Otherwise the car just beeps repeatedly when I walk up to it until I unlock it with my key manually. I've seen in some older threads that people have had the same issue. It seems to be the door lock actuators based on those threads. It's incredibly frustrating that a 2.5 year old car is having this problem on three doors. It also seems obvious that these actuators are garbage if 3 out of 4 of them have crapped out independently right around the same time.
Seems to be a very expensive repair when done by Toyota per door. I will have it looked at this week but don't have high hopes. Seems like you should be able to make a good case that the failure rate is too high if multiple doors are failing.
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We've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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2013 RH450. I have had several incidents with the electronic key in the car, when I return to get into the vehicle the driver side door is locked. Other doors seem to be open. This concerns me because there is the possibility I could be locked out of the vehicle. Called Lexus and they did not understand how this can happen.
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I have a 1998 Honda CRV and the power locks stop working. I have tried both remotes and neither remote works. The control on the drivers side door doesn't work either. The back door doesn't work either via the remote only by pushing the button inside. In order to lock the car, I have to use the key.
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I have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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The drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
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