Civic - Honda :: 2009 - No Longer Can Open The Door Due To Key Only Going In Halfway
Nov 1, 2012
We have a Honda Civic 2009 two door. You can only put a key in the driver's side door or use that clicker to open it. About two weeks ago we could no longer open the door due to the key only going in halfway. If the door is locked only the clicker can be used. so if the battery goes on that and the door is locked, well, that is not good. My spouse took the car to the Honda dealership and they wanted to replace the whole lock system. Of course the car just went over 36,000 miles so the warranty is out. My aunt said to just try lubricant in the lock.
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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My 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
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I took my son's 2008 Honda Civic Coupe in for an oil change at a local third party shop today. While there, I was persuaded to let the mechanics carry out a fuel injection service. On driving home I noticed that the digital speedometer no longer read correctly. It now reads about 20 mph over. This is particularly noticeable as the vehicle slows down. I saw that the mechanics were having trouble connecting into the fuel system. They were working in an area behind the air filter, and just in front of the instrument cluster. I believe that they may have disturbed a cable or something in that area, which has caused the problem.
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So the story begins last year when my inside front passenger handle no longer would open the door. I replaced the actuator with one from Ebay which worked great for a few months. Then suddenly everytime that I would press the fob twice to unlock the pass. doors the locks would unlock and then continue trying to unlock for about ten seconds. After pulling every door panel and unhooking each actuator individually, only after unhooking the one that was already replaced did the issue stop. It had a warranty so it was replaced and worked fine for about a month. Now I'm having an issue with my doors not staying locked. No matter how I try and lock them (with the exception of manually flipping each lock) they lock and automatically unlock like a door is open or key is in the ignition.
I tried reprogramming the locks to shut off the autolock thinking that may possibly fix the issue however even holding down on the lock button doesn't keep them locked so.....no reprogram mode.
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2006 Accent. Today I was stunned to find the inside driver's handle no longer opened the door : I'm sitting here with my door panel almost completely off, the only thing I'm stuck on is the manual window crank
I've been searching around google and here, all I can really find is that it's a huge PITA, and you're supposed to use a hook to pull out a C-Clip.
I really can't see this C-Clip. Or even make contact with it, if it is there. I've been pulling the crank back and peaking inside ever so slightly and I'm just not seeing anything. With a hook in there, I spun the crank hoping I'd feel a 'bump' or 'nudge' of the clip against my hook (bent metal wire), but honestly I've got nothing.
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My 2008 Honda Civic has been failing to start intermittently. When it is put on a charger or jumpstarted it starts right up. After this happened a couple times I realized it only does this when I've left a window open. It doesn't matter if it's cracked or all the way down. A week ago I left the window cracked, went into my apartment for 15 mins and when I came out the car wouldn't start.
Any guesses as to the cause and whether I'll have to produce and surrender a firstborn child to get it fixed?
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We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
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My son's 2007 Honda Civic coupe hood won't open. There's no resistance when pulling the hood release. Either the cable is broken or disconnected from the latch.
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When I open my sunroof and then later on go to close it, it will come in half way and then stop and go back in to open.
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2009 Honda Civic, 54k miles, new tires (<10k miles), loud roaring when driving. Tire dealer says wheel bearings on front left tire are going out. Should this be happening on this car? Drove a Toyota Camry for 14 years and never replaced wheel bearings.
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I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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The AC in our 2004 Honda CRV works fine as long as it's only turned up about halfway. When we turn it up higher than that (and we're on the highway) the cold goes away and we start getting only the fan. On a hot summer day in South Texas, it's VERY obvious when this happens. The Honda dealership here says that we need to replace the "Heater Control Panel".
I asked how they knew that was the problem and they said that they hook it up to something and go step by step checking the system until they get to the problem ... Our heater works fine and the AC actually works fine, as long as the fan is only half-way on. So I'm wondering if there might just be some relay switch or something that needs to be replaced, instead of the whole Heater Control Panel.
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I have a 2009 Honda Civic with about 68,000 miles on it. Yesterday my car started up fine before leaving to work. 7 hours later my car did not start. All my lights work, horn works. Took the battery out and had it tested anyway. They told me the battery is good. I've been reading about other civics having issues with the "anti theft" immobilizer and it keeping their car from starting. Before I take my car to a mechanic, to test starter and everything else.
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2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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We drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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Drivers door wont open using inside door handle. It will open using the outside handle. Door locks are functioning using key, inside door knob, and door lock buttons. Problem started this am. I tried squirting WD40 into the latch, without taking anything apart...and am thinking of removing the inside door panel and getting a better look.
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I recently had an oil change and 30,000 mile service at a Honda dealer. Car was running perfectly when I took it in, but now infrequently 'moans'. The low moan usually happens after I have driven the car for awhile, at a stop sign and I slowly accelerate to take off. In SF, there are lots of stop signs! As soon as I accelerate to full speed, the noise stops.
Can happen as often as five times in ten mins or not at all if I am only driving on the flat. Have had it back to the dealership numerous times since, test driven it three times with them and only heard the noise once (with a technician). They cannot find a reason for it and seem to have given up.
The car is a 2009, has 16477 miles on it and is under a Honda Care warranty. I purchased the car in 2012 as a preowned certified Honda and have had no problems with it and as I only drive about 3000 miles a year have had no previous services or maintenance issues.
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My 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid has recently taken to beeping when I brake, and the brake light flashes briefly. Doesn't occur all the time; more like intermittent and both the beeping and the light goes off in a matter of seconds. I've been trying to keep an eye on when it happens and I think it happens more frequently when I first start the car.
Took it to a car dealer who said it's the master brake cylinder and the car is leaking brake fluids. They even have to top it off before my husband drove it out of the service center. We of course have not noted any drips in the garage, and have been monitoring the brake fluids and after 3 weeks have not noticed any lost brake fluids. The tank is full.
To replace the master brake cylinder and some miscellaneous repairs such as air filters. It seems to me that if we are leaking brake fluids there should be a drop in the level of fluids in the tank. What to check and perhaps who else besides the dealer to take the car to for more diagnostic testing?
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