Civic - Honda :: 2009 - Intermittent AC During Long Distance Trip
Jun 28, 2012
2009 Civic has an intermittent ac during long distance trips. About 1hour into a trip it feels warm I turn the blower up higher. I can turn it to the highest setting and it sounds like it's blowing at full blast but no air is coming out at all. I turn the ac off completely for 45 mins to an hour to "thaw" then it comes back on. Dealer had it 6 times now only once they were able to replicate the problem. The blower motor, expansion valve & termistor have been replaced.
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I had recently purchased a 2010 S used corolla , its a very good car but i'm facing a problem with my remote control , i have to get very close to the rear window so it responds, I had change the battery of the remote but problem still exists.
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My 2002 Toyota Highlander burned up to a quart of oil very 300 miles when on a recent long distance freeway trip. It must be burning it out the back as there is no drip. Clearly, there is a leak, but why only when driving on long freeway trips? Can this be due to pressure build-up and a clogged PCV?
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I have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?
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Car does not have to get wet, just be in humid air. Problem going on 2 years now, mechanics tried disconnecting a (?) ground/sensor from computer, major tune up, new fuel pump. Until recently, it just took keeping it in crank position for a long time for it to finally start. Recently, in crank position for 30 seconds does nothing and has me worried I'm doing damage. In dry weather, it starts first time every time.
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About 3 weeks ago, I purchased a 2003 Honda Civic EX Coupe, automatic transmission with 131,000 on it. I took it to my mechanic before purchasing it and he said it looked good. The test drive didn't reveal any problems. A few days into owning it, however, I noticed this screeching noise but it didn't happen all the time. When it happened, I was always taking off from an intersection or pulling out of a parking lot - never when I was just driving down the road or on startup. The mechanic couldn't get the noise to happen but inspected the belts and said they looked new and were tight enough. This continued happening intermittently and sometimes I would even notice a slight hesitation in the car on takeoff. I went back to my regular mechanic with no success and also took it to another mechanic who tightened up the power steering belt a bit - still does it. None of the mechanics hear the noise when they drive it because it is so intermittent. I will add that the noise only happens with the AC on - a further inspection revealed the pulleys to be ok. What in the world is this noise and is it something that could leave me stranded? Everything I read about screeching is belt and pulley related but that doesn't seem to be my problem.
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I have had a problem compounding for about 6 months. The car will not even try to turn over. One day she works perfect, the next day the starter won't even try to turn over. Recently it has been getting worse, I continued to roll start when it wouldn't start and kept driving... but now it will not even try to start at all.
I thought perhaps it was the starter solenoid failing, but when I took it to advance auto parts they tested it and it was functioning just as it should. I then figured it could be the relay, but I can hear it clicking on. What else could it be? I know that the spark plug wires and distributor are all good because I have personally replaced them in the last 6 months. I found some things on the internet referring to a clutch pedal ignition lock switch. Any good way to test it?
[URL] .....
This would appear to be the switch that I have heard of. Can it cause a complete breach of power from the ignition switch to the starter when failing? I will check to make sure that power is not making it to the starter tomorrow... I'm just not that familiar with the circuit.
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2003 Honda Civic. Any speed between 30 and 50, car suddenly starts pronounced steering wheel shimmy, too intense to ignore. You can park, start up again and it's gone.
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I have a 1991 Honda Civic DX and it is doing something I can't explain. Randomly the car will not even try to turn over. The ignition switch will click, the dash lights come on... but not even the slightest peep from the starter motor. If I put the vehicle in fifth gear and roll it, turning the engine over even half a rotation, the engine will fire right up.
It started on a road trip and happened very sparsely, but has since become more common. What used to be 1 out of 20 is now maybe 1 out of 4 chance it doesn't start. Every now and then it will go days without any problems, then seemingly randomly the ignition fails again for spurts. I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and rotor about 2 months ago. The ignition switch appears to be fine....
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I have a power window issue with my 2002 civic with about 120K miles on it. this has happened intermittently over the last 2-3 years but now it's not fixing itself.
The other day, I had opened all the windows while driving. When I got to my destination and wanted to put them all back up, the driver's side rear window did not go up. Neither the driver's seat/master switch nor the rear door switch did anything. No noise from the window at all when activating either switch. I checked the power window relay fuse under the dash and it is fine. If I try to pull the window up, that doesn't work either.
In the past when this has happened, I typically would just pray for dry weather and wait a few days, and it would eventually work again on its own. I seem to recall that shutting the rear or driver's door a few times might have worked a little too. I have a vague memory from a few years ago that it may have also happened (the same exact problem) with the passenger side rear window, but i can't be 100% in my recollection of that.
I don't drive the car a lot, but i'd like to not have a sheet of plastic taped around the window, it looks pretty junky. I don't really need the rear window to be fully functional (though that would be great) - i would be content to get it into the up position and then never open it again.
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I have a 99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 - Auto Trans. The car operates fine, however when driving long distances - say 150 - 200 miles if I stop and try to restart within 5 minutes it will not start. It will attempt a start but choke out - and sometimes not even that - it just has the low click of the starter. Temp. gauge registers normal - not sure if it's an overheating issue - but nothing indicates that. Car will eventually restart (or at least has to date) after a 15-20 minute rest period. I had some issues early last year - had the EGR valve replaced, thought that had solved it..
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I took control of a new GTI 2014 Wolfsburg last Thursday. I let my Jetta go early and was able to get into the GTI for a steal. Just got it tinted (photo above), already have a Unitronic intake on the way from CBTuning, I have KW V3's all set for installation, Stabila F+R swaybar in the garage, 034 endlinks in the garage, Whiteline W.A.L.K. kit in the garage, an SPM 3" 'track' downpipe currently on order, SPM trans and engine mounts on order, HPA puck in the garage, and am already working out plans for a custom cat-back exhaust. I will be going Stage II Unitronic for both engine and DSG and will be cleaning/tucking the bay a bit.
But first, a problem... On my first long distance drive to lower Delaware on Friday, I began hearing a 'hmm... hmm... hmm...' noise at 65+ MPH as I drove down 95. It go louder the faster I went, so I eased up figuring a tire or wheel was just screwy.
I brought it back to the dealership Friday afternoon and just had it returned today. All four tires had bald/flat spots and the front left had a nasty bubble, all of which they replaced at no cost, feeling that this was the issue and the solution.
However, I took it out tonight, about 2 hours ago, and the noise returned, the same hum at the same speed (65MPH) and up. I Google'd around and found some solutions that it could possibly just be a bad wheel bearing. The car is brand new and as of tonight, I only have 340~ miles on it. Also, the noise is not constant, but rather every other second, 'hmm.... hmm.... hmm....'.
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I just bought a 2005 Scion XA for commuting but am considering driving it from Maine to Maryland and am concerned about driving long distance at highway speeds with 3200 RPM at 65 MPH. Is this ok?
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I have a problem with my car I notice 2 time when I was driving from city to province about 270km distance and speed 102km/h my car was appear red check engine sign I don't know what is the problem. Last time it was disappear by its self after 2 days ...
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I have a 2000 X 7.3 diesel with under 100,000 miles. I drive it about 10,000 miles a year, all towing. However it does get used everyday driving a student to the bus, a distance of about 10 blocks. There is an engine block heater which I use all winter but the engine never warms up on the ten block run. I do service the engine twice a year, every six months. What damage am I doing and what can I do to prevent any damage?
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I just recently bought a used 2013 Honda Civic with 22,000 miles.
When I apply the brakes at speeds below 20mph, you can hear a high pitch intermittent squeak from the front right wheel. The time in between each squeak gets longer as you slow down.
I check the pads on both sides and they are both fairly new. (close to a cm on the pad left) The wear indicators were no where close to the edge of the pad. I greased them up and still nothing. I checked around the rotor for any metal that could be touching it but I didn't find anything. What would make an intermittent squeak like that.
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Yesterday night I got back from a tired long trip and forgot the light nob on fog light position. This afternoon I went out to the car the battery is dead.
I asked dealer but they claim this is a feature to leave side lights on if I left light nob at fog/side position while key is removed. I used to own a 2009 Corolla with auto light, it always turn off all lights regardless light switch position after key is removed.
Car model is 2010 Tiguan Hightline / SEL
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Got a leak that just developed after a long trip. It's not big, but I am not sure what it could be? I see in front of the rad is a smaller looking rad, and in front of that behind the grill in the bumper is an even smaller radiator-radiator-looking box. I see two small hoses coming out of it, down under the rads but above that metal brace. Does that hold coolant? Or one of the other radiators?
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I just took a long road trip from Tampa, FL to Houston, Texas and back to Tampa in 5 days. I get 38.9 MPG according to car computer after 2287 miles. My prius is equipped with FRS wheel, 215/50/17 Continental Procontact Ecoplus, Air pressure is 50psi on front and rear. I wonder how much other Prius owners get? I heavy on my foot. I usually keep the speed 75-80mph. The result is also included total ~15 hours idle since I had one night sleep in the car.
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I am currently about 1700 miles into what is a, planned, 11,000 mile road trip up to Alaska and back to SC. The first three days of driving everything was fine and I was getting 33 MPG. Today my MPG dropped down to 28 and in the evening my check engine light came on. The folks at PepBoys told me it was P0139 which I understand has to do with oxygen sensors and would affect my vehicle gas consumption.
If I drive about 21 hrs (Denver to Portland OR) to get to a place where I have a trusted mechanic and more free time, will it be bad for the car/engine?
Driving: Elantra GLS, 2003. Around 53k miles on it. Just replaced the tires last week as well as all belts (including timing). A few years ago I recall a similar error and my mechanic had me take the car to a muffler shop to cut something out and reweld it. yeah, I have forgotten the details.
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2008 Prius gen ll.. I had to take an unplanned out of state trip this week. For most of the highway time (2 days each way at +/- 65mph) the hybrid battery was almost always fully charged(green bars). The arrow every few seconds pointed towards the battery indicating charging even though the battery showed all green bars. Every now and then, several times per minute it would out pulse a short blast of energy to the system but not enough to bring it down to blue bars.
MPG was down about 10% . P>G didn't seem to except when I was in town. Taking my foot off the gas pedal didn't always result in the 99.9 indication unless I was going down an incline. I went from Northern Michigan to South Louisiana so temperature wasn't the culprit. The only thing different is that my 12v ignition battery failed just before leaving and the dealership replaced it.
At normal speeds, when I pulled off the interstate for gas/food/sleep the system worked OK, blue bars charging and discharging and good gas mileage. P&G worked normally. I've had this car for 5 years now and only a few times over that period have I noticed the hybrid battery fully green.
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