2008 Honda Civic Coupe with 26K miles. One tire keeps losing air & idiot lite comes on. Can this 1 tire be fixed? Or do I need to buy 2 new tires? I do know that one tire had a nail in it and was patched, but I've lost track of which one it is.
View 4 RepliesSunday I had a new set of tires put on my Civic. They told me that one of the four Tire Pressure Monitoring System sensors was bad and that they'd have to order me a new one. I drove home that day with the TPMS light on, which was expected.
This morning I went back to the shop and they replaced the bad sensor. However, after resetting, and doing whatever else it is they did with the handheld computer thing a half-dozen times, the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light is not only on, but blinking. (The TPMS light is off). They drove it around, they checked it with their computer thing again, they plugged in the handheld thing to reset it, went around and did something at each of the tire stems multiple times, but no matter what they did, the light wouldn't (and won't) stop blinking.
"If it doesn't stop on its own, you might have to bring it to a Honda Dealer."
Seriously?
I used to have an old Aurora that would turn on the engine light every time a reading went slightly out of whack, and after so many ignition key turns (on and off) the light would turn off on its own. Is that the case here? Or is this light going to blink forever until I go to the Honda Dealer?
2008 Elantra, no longer under warranty.
A few days ago, I got new tires on the front. The tire pressure light came on the next day. The front left tire seemed to be losing air. I brought it to the tire place.. They could find no leaking anywhere, although the tire had lost 5 pounds of pressure. The mechanic said the leak could be due to the TPM sensor? (He said, when he was checking the air pressure, the core stuck? ) Can a faulty TPM sensor cause air to leak out of a tire??
If that TPM sensor is indeed broken -- is the Tire place responsible?? --because this seemed to break right when they put new tires on my car.
Okay, so after 42k miles, I had to bite the bullet 4 months before my lease is up and put yet another set of tires on my T2. Done today at reputable shop, and the TPMS is not yet registering the monitors on all four wheels. Driven about 8 miles since and they are still not registering. The indicator light is flashing for 60 seconds to indicate no signal. Should this rectify itself with some driving, as other systems on the Treg do, or is it something else. They were working immediately prior to them mounting the new tires.
View 6 RepliesThis is the third time my TMPS light and "Low Tire Pressure" message have popped on... I have checked all (4) tires and they are still exactly where I had them inflated several weeks back when I went through this the last time. What the threshold pressure is to set the TMPS warning off? I do run about 10psi lower than the door sticker because the door sticker pressure was too much and wearing the center of my rear tires... I just find it odd and frustrating that there are no problems for a period of time, and then all of a sudden I have to go through and over-inflate the tires for a few miles for the TPMS sensors to reset and clear the light, and then drop back down to where I need them for proper tire wear and it seems OK for weeks, and now here we go again
View 2 RepliesMy car is a 1998 Honda Civic DX hatchback 5 speed manual. About 180,000+ miles. For a while now the car seems to have a problem with power under load. If I am on an incline the engine will start making a metallic gurgling noise as I push on the gas. It increases as I give it more gas, or the hill gets steeper; at which point the car usually begins to slow down depending on my speed. It is most noticeable when I shift into a higher gear and then my speed drops into the range where I could downshift. It also happens often however at 60 mph+. On inclines at that speed, the car will gradually lose speed down into the 50's if the hill is long enough/steep enough even with the gas pedal floored. I'll need to shift into fourth to keep at 50 mph until I'm over the hill.
I've been told by a few friends/mechanics that it may be the catalytic convertor. Hard to test it or just weld on a new one though since the cat is integrated into the manifold, etc. So I took it to a trusted mechanic who did a bunch of work. He said it was only firing on three cylinders instead of four due to carbon tracking, but wasn't concerned with the cat. He did a tune-up and replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, valve cover and gasket (leaking), air filter and fuel filter, and cleaned the throttle body. Also replaced both rear strut assemblies.
Until now there had been NO check engine light signaling a problem. I got the car back and it felt good at first, but still seemed to make the noise albeit quieter. The power was better, but only for maybe a couple days. The engine again started making the noise more often and losing power in the same ways. Also, the check engine light came on a few days later. Blinking the first time, then it would come on for a couple of days, then off for a couple, etc. Now it has come on and stayed on constantly for a couple of weeks. I had the engine codes read and got three codes:
P1456- the usual emission control system leak... fuel cap possibility, etc. I'm guessing it isn't this for the most part...
P0141- "secondary HO2s12 (Heated oxygen sensor- bank 1, sensor 2) circuit heater malfunction.
and the strangest of all since I'd expect it to be fixed...
P0301- "cylinder number 1 misfire detected" ...
So it could be something else with the cylinders going on, O2 sensor having to do with cat. stuff, etc.? I also will be due for a timing belt change soon I believe, but that would not be causing any of this I don't think. I'll be bringing it back to the mechanic to have a look again, but haven't had the time yet.
So my civic has been running hot this week. Had plenty of antifreeze. Oil.changes and tuneup are up to date. Started running hot monday so I went ahead and changed the radiator cap and replaced the thermostat. Still running hot at this point and im losing all my fluid from the coolant reservoir. I run my heat as a guide to when I lose all fluid. Once the heat turns cold I pullover and refill it up. Oil isnt milky and no white smoke. Could it still be a bad head gasket? Possible water pump? Plan to flush the radiator tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesMy 99 civic 5 speed has a weird power loss issue. Right after starting up for the first few mins while I'm driving (any speed and gear) it'll start lagging like it isn't getting gas or something.
Letting off the gas peddle stops it, then pressing the gas causes it again. If I go up and down on the gas peddle it goes away for a few seconds. If I'm just at idle the idle speed goes down and down untill it almost stalls then it revs up a bit and then does it again.
I have a '98 Civic Dx with 217,000+ miles on it. Last year I had the water pump and timing belt replaced and beginning in February I noticed my antifreeze was disappearing but couldn't find any leaks. One mechanic said it was the water pump, so I had it redone under warranty. The antifreeze is still disappearing and now my mechanic tells me it's the radiator. (Don't you think he would have said that the first time?) It seems that the transmission is starting to go (see below) so I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the radiator or trying to patch any leaks I can find. I've heard such mixed reviews on patching radiator leaks and this mechanic won't do it. The part is cheap and I can probably replace or repair it myself. So, repair or replace?
I've had a few incidents of my car shuddering after I start driving and losing power around the first turn. Sometimes the shudder is worse if I've turned the car on, idled for a few moments and then started driving. The shudder was similar to one time when I had a bad spark plug wire, so thinking it was that I gave my car a tune up-- new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. But two mornings ago it nearly stalled as I was taking the first turn off my street.
Then yesterday morning it nearly stalled after I backed out of my parking space and began driving (I'd sat for a few moments with the car idling before backing out). For a while I've felt like it wasn't really getting full power around the first turn. I don't know how to describe it except that pushing on the accelerator didn't really do anything until the car had completed the turn and straightened out. I haven't had any problems throughout the rest of the day-- it drives just fine. It's only when it's been sitting at least overnight.
I'm in denial about it being my transmission. It has never liked to start when I've down to or below a quarter tank of gas, and someone else who called the show about that was told that the fuel system was probably losing pressure as it sat overnight, which sounds like what happens to mine. Could this be another symptom of that? Or could something in the fuel system be clogged, like the filter? (My Dad had a clogged fuel filter once and his car would lose power on an incline.) Or is this perhaps the beginning of the end for my little friend? I'm at 217k...
My car spun on ice, did a 360 and hit the barrier rail of the bridge. The rear bumper was all scraped up and got pushed pushed out on the passenger side. I've replaced it but I've been hearing a thumping noise from the passenger side tire (not sure rear of front) and this is only noticeable on expressway with smooth asphalt and only under wet conditions. The alignment was done after the accident but after taking the car to several service locations they did not hear any noise (we were driving in wet conditions.)
View 3 RepliesSo i recently bought this 2002 honda civic, and seeing as the owner said it only needed a new windshield, rear strut, rear brakes, and new front tires, it wasn't a bad deal. I never got time to fix anything before I went on vacation for 2 weeks. It's been parked in the garage the entire time I was away, but when i went to start it up and pull it out it wouldn't move. It started perfectly fine, i took the E-brake off, but it wouldn't move unless I revved it to around 4-5k rpm, and even then it wouldn't go more than an inch.
So I put it in neutral to see if i could push it. it only moved when i got it rocking pretty good, but that's when i noticed the right rear tire had skidded the whole way. When i first got it i did notice a slight grinding type sound coming from the rear every time the car moved, but I didn't pay too much attention to it seeing as the car wasn't leaving the driveway for awhile anyway. Well now its permanently stuck until i find a solution.
I have a 2003 Honda Civic coupe that is making a interesting noise. When making a hard left turn with some speed, an intermittant rubbing noise is coming from the rear right tire and wheel. I cannot duplicate that noise turng right at any speed.
One more fact, the right rear and left front tires lose 5-10 psi of air a week. They were filled yesterday, so they should be around 30 psi still (door sticker recommendation). New tires put on last summer by previous owner- not sure if they were losing air at that rate before the new treads or not.
I plan on buying a used wheels to replace current ones to hopefully remedy the losing air situation!
I have a 2010 Honda Civic with 73K miles. I've noticed that the car can get loud when driving .
It has 4 Michelin Primacy tires from Costco put on at 45K. Not sure when the noise started, but now with my iphone I run a sound meter app and the sound level is 80 - 95db . Yeah, it's not calibrated, but my wife's Lexus reads about 75db worst case. so even just relative to the lexus, it's loud.
The noise is loudest (95db)at around 57MPH and some other speeds like 47, 67 also. Other speeds in between these, it gets down to 80db.
There's NO vibration at any speeds (so tires are balanced?)There's NO pull to either side when driving There's NO pull to either side when brakingThere's NO change in the sound level when putting the transmission in neutral (so it's not a trans issue?)There's NO change in the sound level when the engine is idling at the speeds (so the sound is not tied to RPM level)There's NO discernible change in the sound level on different roads (so 57 MPH is loud on most any road).The tires are wearing normallyRotating the tires had no change in the sound level
What's left? Tires and axle / bearings? Is there anything I can do to look for / test for to figure out the issue, short of a new set of tires? I guess I'll have a mechanic look at the bearings?
Is tire noise usually tied to road speed in that pattern of getting louder at a certain speed, getting quieter above and below that speed, then get louder again at another certain speed.
I was wondering if the spare tire could cause the TMPS to go off because i checked all four wheels and they are at 39 psi just to be safe and still its on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Honda Civic, 4 door, 144K, original owner, 5 speed transmission with brand new tires and new brakes all around. Whenever going around a sharp curve, there is noise coming from the back, almost as if the tire is scraping the wheel well. The new tires are the same size as the OEM tires that came with the car brand new. My thought is perhaps work out shocks?
View 3 RepliesA customer brought in their 07 Camry XLE with a flashing low tire light. I retrieved two codes, one for sensor 1 and one for sensor 2. Tire pressures normal.
Codes are
DTC C2121/21 No Signal from Transmitter ID1 in Main Mode
DTC C2122/22 No Signal from Transmitter ID2 in Main Mode
The other things I noticed were that the two bad sensors were showing a temp of -40F while the two good sensors were within 5 degrees of actual ambient temp. Another fault was that the battery in #4 was low. I ordered 2 new sensors from Toyota and after writing down their code, I swapped them out. I had already written down the codes for the other 2 sensors. Going into the data, now sensor #4 is reading -40F too and the battery says OVER.
The only good one is on the left front. I cannot believe that I had two bad sensors this morning and another failed this afternoon. I've been wrenching long enough to know that these things are rare. The customer made the appointment yesterday and dropped off the car last night. She called right when the light came on and only drove it about 30 miles from then to when she dropped it off. Before I left, I ordered two more sensors. BTW, the tires look relatively new, but we did not put them on. The two sensors I removed looked fine.
So tonight I'm driving on I-80 and all of a sudden I hear a thud, the TPMS light comes on and a warning of low tire pressure. I get out to take a lot and the rear left tire is practically flat. Changing the tire was pretty easy once I figured out where everything was in the tray.
So now I'm in the market for a replacement tire as there was a huge hole in tread. I have a about 3000 miles on the car. Would you get a replacement tire that is the same make/model as the rest of the tires, or would you simply get a cheaper replacement? Once I am ready to replace the rest of the tires, I'm not sure if I would replace them with the OEM make/model anyway. At the same time I'm not sure how long the OEM's will last.
So I feel like this is more of vent than anything but anyways, it all started yesterday when I noticed one of my tires had the TPMS light pop up. I went to the gas station on my way home and put some air in it and everything was good. This morning I get in my car and its the same tire but now at 7 psi so I have a leaking tire. I bring it to costco to see if they can do a quick tire repair instead I find out my alignments been screwed up and it has worn down all 4 of my tires on the inside. I saw it for myself and its been worn down on them pretty bad. I'm in the process of getting the Michelin Pilot Sports by tomorrow and will need to get an alignment.
Lexus dealership didn't catch this when I brought it in last month for an oil change and they did their so called "inspection." Maybe they don't check for alignment issues but wouldn't they have noticed the uneven wear on my tires??? Also my IS350 is all stock and isn't dropped or anything. Why my alignment would've been messed up?
I was driving doen the road and and all of a sudden I get a message to check the tires and the TPMS light was on. So I pulled over looked at the tires none looked flat. So I continued to a gas station to check the pressure. The pressures were fine, I had just installed my steel wheels and winter tires on Friday. What could have caused this and how do I reset it?
View 5 RepliesI just got st coils and apr stg1 software put in my car and love it. the question i have is the other day my tpms light came on, so when the guys installed my software (today) the tried to set the pressures and clear the light and it wont go off i want to take it to the dealer but I don't want them to give me a hard time about the mods.
View 3 RepliesFirst cold day of the year today and naturally my TPMS light came on. Checked the pressures with my own gauge, all at 34 psi. Inflated them all to 38psi and the TPMS light is still on. Drove a little ways - still on. Checked pressures again - still 38psi. I had this happen once before in mid-winter two years ago and I can't remember what I had to do to reset the TPMS light. Mine isn't one of the ABS/ESP systems so I don't have a reset button - I need to do something with the VAGCOM but I don't recall what.
What's weird is that the TPMS threshold should be 7psi per wheel shouldn't it? And my light came on when it was only 4psi down. Is there somewhere I can check and find out what the ECU thinks the threshold is - again with my VAGCOM?
2010 Tiguan 4MO