Civic - Honda :: 2008 - Digital Speedometer No Longer Read Correctly
Aug 20, 2011
I took my son's 2008 Honda Civic Coupe in for an oil change at a local third party shop today. While there, I was persuaded to let the mechanics carry out a fuel injection service. On driving home I noticed that the digital speedometer no longer read correctly. It now reads about 20 mph over. This is particularly noticeable as the vehicle slows down. I saw that the mechanics were having trouble connecting into the fuel system. They were working in an area behind the air filter, and just in front of the instrument cluster. I believe that they may have disturbed a cable or something in that area, which has caused the problem.
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I have an 08 s-crew and latley the gas gauge doesnt seem to read correctly some times. Once waiting for the wife to get in and the low fuel alarm chimed and the gauge read empty. I just filled the tank. What could cause this?
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Front wheel looks pushed back and not aligned correctly. I figured I hit a nasty pothole.
Mechanic #1 says the control arm needs to be replaced.
Mechanic #2 says the strut needs to be replaced. No comment on control arm.
Could it be both? Or neither?
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I have an 04 5.4L SCREW Erratic Speedometer.
Most of the time it works, some of the time it bounces or doesn't read at all.
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We have a Honda Civic 2009 two door. You can only put a key in the driver's side door or use that clicker to open it. About two weeks ago we could no longer open the door due to the key only going in halfway. If the door is locked only the clicker can be used. so if the battery goes on that and the door is locked, well, that is not good. My spouse took the car to the Honda dealership and they wanted to replace the whole lock system. Of course the car just went over 36,000 miles so the warranty is out. My aunt said to just try lubricant in the lock.
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I have a Honda Civic EX 1993. The mechanic said that this is not due to a sensor and checked all the wires and said all of that is fine. And said only a new speedometer would fix it but I wonder if something else couldn't fix it. Quite expensive to get a new speedometer, especially if it doesn't work.
For about 2 years I have had a problem with the speedometer. It does not come on right away. In the summer it takes maybe 5-10 minutes to come on. In the winter it rarely comes on before I get where I am going (I live in a small town so about 20 minutes). Tapping on it does nothing. Once it comes on it works fine.
I rarely go on the highway unless going out of town. When I do go on the highway (high speeds) after anywhere from 10-30 minutes depending on the weather, it first flips over to about about 100 mph, and then if I hit the front of the face of the speedometer it goes to the correct speed and works fine from there on. If I only stop for a short time, it comes back on fine. If I am stopped for a long time it goes through the same thing.
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My speedometer on my '02 Honda Civic was working, then not working. Now it doesn't work at all. I replaced the VSS, and it still isn't working. There are over 150K miles on the car. I read somewhere that it could be the alternator, but that doesn't seem to make sense to me?
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The digital display in the cluster, sometimes it works perfectly fine and its clearly legible and bright as day. Most other time however, the lighting or whatever in it gets really dim and the text gets really dark and hard to read. I usually have to cup my hands over the cluster to get it really dark and then i can see what it says. Like i said though, sometimes it could be broad daylight and its really bright and easy to see, but most of the time its not.
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I have a 98 Civic with 218,000 miles. It's my around town car (the bigger more expensive car sits in the garage most of the time). The speedometer whacked out about a month ago. The needle will sit and quiver on 20 mph when I start it, when I'm going 60, and at stop lights. Suddenly, with no apparent reason the needle will jump to to the correct speed, work correctly and then as suddenly drop back to 20. I replaced the speed sensor (an easy job) and that didn't fix it. What else might be going on? Wiring harness? What would I do with the wiring? I do a lot of low level maintenance myself; oil, plugs, brakes, struts, but I've never done wiring work.
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Driving on highway, check engine light goes on, speedometer drops from 60 to 0 but nothing else happens. Come to a stoplight and engine light stays on and speedometer works again. Any diagnostics?
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I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z. During the first few years of the car, I always had a gas gauge that read correctly. Then, I had a recall notice about the gas tank. I took it in and got the part fixed. Now, my gas gauge does not read correctly. It rarely shows that it is full. In fact it looks like the needle "floats" up and down when I have driven it and used some of the gas.
Another thing I noticed is if the tank reads below 1/2 a tank and I go in to fill the tank, then start the car up, it looks like the needle just "sticks" and then jumps to almost full. I have put in some gas cleaners to see if that would work and it does a little but two things I would like to know:
If I decide to get this fixed, what is it that I should call this problem? When I mention it to the mechanics, they always act like I am nuts or they have never heard of this problem.
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So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.
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1997 Ford F250 4x4 HD ... My vehicle has about 197,000 miles on it and for the most part still functions properly. I do have an odd "happening" sometimes and here is a description:
I will be driving along and all of a sudden the digital odometer readout will go blank and the speedometer will drop to 0 if I was going 60 mph or below or to 120 if I was going over 60 mph.
Where do I start troubleshooting?
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our 2001 Nissan Quest with 201,000 miles has recently started having some strange issues. The speedometer will suddenly drop to zero, and after a few seconds, come back up and work correctly. A couple of times, this was associated with the engine "chugging" and topping out at about 50 mph. If I stop, it will resume and run normally. I would love for this car to last me 2 more years.
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So my girlfriend got a 2002 Jetta Wagon 2.0 automatic (PRND321, no tiptronic). She noted when she was driving fast on the driveway highway one day her speedo stopped climbing and would wiggle around 60mph and not go any further even if she was going 80+.
I would have thought first that the speed sensor would be messed up. Went to the junkyard and pulled 2 speed sensors for cheaper then 1/4 of new. Put the newer cleaner part on and the same exact issues. Locks up and wont climb past ~65mph and the needle wiggles. I am guessing its not the sensor. Question is what could cause it? Could it be the actual internal gear in that meshes with the transmission? Ill try replacing, i have extra i think. But could this be a cluster or a computer issue? And the odometer is also off. When it gets stuck at the slow speed, the mileage won't count at the full speed. She drove to a friends at a known 80 miles away and it only said its was low 70-something on the gauge when she got there. So there is a discrepancy of mileage count too.
I am going to head to the junkyard soon and thinking of pulling a cheap cluster to try it out, but I also heard you might need a VCDS for the immobilizer in the cluster. And the mileage is stored on the cluster or not? What should I pursue next?
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When I turn my key the car makes an awful grinding noise and then starts up fine. What is this and should I have it looked at?
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My 2008 Honda Civic has been failing to start intermittently. When it is put on a charger or jumpstarted it starts right up. After this happened a couple times I realized it only does this when I've left a window open. It doesn't matter if it's cracked or all the way down. A week ago I left the window cracked, went into my apartment for 15 mins and when I came out the car wouldn't start.
Any guesses as to the cause and whether I'll have to produce and surrender a firstborn child to get it fixed?
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Honda Civic 2008. Daughter sends att'd photo of passenger side, lower portion. (I will not see the real thing until Wednesday evening.) Does this need fixed, or can we just snip it off? (I can hope, can't I?). Who fixes it, glass shop or body shop? Is this a typical failure, or should we be concerned about vandalism or other malice? (What could they have been trying to get at? But the sharp bends look unnatural.)
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before there was a problem in my car like when ever i was accelerating the car i feel that there is a heavy engine sound and i consult the mechanic some said me that the engine mounts to be replaced and some said that spark plug to be replaced [Present ODO Meter is 124,000 km]but now i am feeling that when i am initially accelerating the car ["without turning on AC"] It gives some sound from the silencer and the car is moving slowly and car is shaking when i am turning the AC on it shakes very badly and even though it is moving like a tortoise at the initial stage even though i accelerate later it is moving fast...
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One of my DRLs was out, so I changed both per recommendation. The notification light on my dashboard went away, but now both DRLs are out. All other lights are working fine.
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I have a 2008 Honda Civic with 65K miles. It's started idling rough and vibrating just on startup when it's been sitting overnight. This continues until I start driving up the road at which time it stops. I ran a fuel cleaner through it and changed the air filter, which was slightly dirty but not too bad. No effect. Then I took it to my Honda mechanic and he said there was nothing wrong with it.
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