Civic - Honda :: 2006 LX - Air Conditioner Stop Blowing Cold Air
Aug 19, 2011
I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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I have a Honda civic 2011. Sometimes my middle two ac vents is not blowing out any air at all ( but the sides somehow works very little ). The reason why I said sometimes is because it stopped working for a day then it would work again the following day. I don't know what's wrong with it. I called for an estimate and the guy tells me if he has to open up the dashboard to open up the vents it would cost in upwards of 800.
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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I have an 06 Honda Accord sedan...lately I have been having a rather serious problem with wet carpet after driving long distances with the air conditioner on.It became so serious on a 4 hr trip in 90 degree weather that the carpet became so saturated that the water actually caused the (PCM) Power control module located beneath the center console to short out, causing the car to loose all power and stranding me in the middle of nowhere. The car was towed to the nearest Honda dealer and after a week they finally replaced the PCM. I had noticed wet carpet recently but not to this extent. I suspected some type of condensation from the air conditioner. The dealer dismissed this theory and implied that I had left the windows down in the rain, which was not the case. After getting the car back I conducted a test. After completely drying out the carpet, I took it on a road trip with the air on and sure enough the carpet was again soaked.
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My son's Honda Civic keeps periodically blowing the #4 fuse under the dash (alternator). He replaced the VSS and had the alternator tested but it still happens.
At one point the fuse would blow as soon as you turned the key to ignition but I traced that down to a shorted wiper motor which I replaced and that solved the immediate fuse blowing. BTW according to all documentation I have, the wiper motor is not supposed to be on fuse #4 so perhaps the under dash fuse box has issues.
Looking for a schematic for the under dash fuse box? I have the 01-02 service manual which has wiring diagrams that reference specific fuses but I can't found one for the box itself. Are there relays in that box or is it just wiring from fuse slots to the many connectors?
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15ยบ warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 153,000 miles. Whenever I come to a stop my car turns off, before it turns off the check engine light will flickr and the right passenger door makes weird noises. When it turns off I put the car in park and it turns back on perfectly. When it does turn off the battery light and oil light comes on and stays on. This morning it happened again and the car wouldn't start up for 10 minutes I need to know what's wrong before it gets worse. I already got a tune up on it. Could it be transmission problem because the car will sometimes just jump up 1000rpm.
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My car drives fine till it heats up then if I come to a stop it won't go into gear.....
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My neighbor has a problem with her manual transmission 2002 Honda Civic. To avoid an accident she swerved the car and came to an abrupt stop. After that the car wouldn't start and had to be towed home. After it was sitting overnight I tried to start it. No luck. The engine didn't even try to turn over, no clicking, no nothing. What's going on? What can she expect when it's towed to a garage?
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I recently bought a 98 civic ex for my daily commute. I've had it for almost 3 months. Recently, it has started to stall occasionally when I come to a stop. I then have to put the car in park and turn the key to start it again. After that it seems to run fine. It has started to do this more and more frequentlyand I worry that eventually it just wont restart. I've also noticed that the idle is sometimes very low so that even when it doesn't stall it feels like it has.
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I have a 2011 Honda Civic EX-L sedan with 10,000miles on it. I've noticed that the brakes often make a squeaking noise when I am driving slowly and come to a stop at a stop sign. It seems to happen most often after a cold start (e.g. I notice it in the morning when I start my drive to work and otherwise when I have not been driving around in my car). I took it to the dealership today and they said everything was fine with the brakes; they are in great shape and starting to wear normally. They found nothing wrong and they did not hear the squeaking although I heard it this morning and last night.
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I drive a 2004 Honda Civic. About a month ago, my car started to overheat. The next day, I took it into the shop,and they said the thermostat was sticking,and I had a small leak in the radiator. I got a new thermostat, radiator (they did not have anyone to repair), and flushed the system.
A few days later, the car started to overheat again, and quickly went down. We thought it was a fluke. A few days later, it did the same thing and we took it back to the shop. They said nothing was wrong and let the car run with the radiator cap off for a while in case there was a bubble. Since then, it has has started to overheat a few more times. So the, problem is not all the time, just every so often. Several parts have already been replaced, as noted.
What we have found in common is that each time it starts to overheat, we are in stop and go traffic. It has always been hot outside too (but it is summer). When we begin to move at a regular pace, the car temp goes down. I live in a city, so it is impossible not to get in stop and go traffic on a regular basis. Not everytime we are in stop and go traffic it does this, but since the repairs, it has never overheated while moving at a regular pace.
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 140K miles on it. When I am going 60+ miles an hour and try to brake, the brakes shake. Or at least that is the best way I can describe it. It makes it hard to stop well when going fast, I have to release the brake and kind of pump them until the shaking is under control. What causes this? and what needs to be fixed? I wonder if it is the way I drive or just a normal occurrence?
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I have a 2003 civic (automatic) with 72000 miles on it. It recently began hesitating from a cold start. It will hesitate once or twice, I stop, and after that it is fine for the rest of the drive. Since it is sporadic, it's hard for the mechanics to see what is going on. I took it to one mechanic who cleaned the fuel injectors, cleaned the throttle plates, flushed the transmission fluid, and replaced the spark plugs. He also put a note on the bill that the transmission may need to be rebuilt soon, although he didn't mention that when he told us what he did. The car drove fine for about three weeks after that, and then it started hesitating daily.
I took it into another mechanic who was able to see the problem for himself when I left the car overnight. He scanned it for error codes, but didn't find anything. He said he checked all connections and wiring and cleaned the wiring but that was all he could do. He said he thought it was a bad O2 sensor, but because the check engine light isn't on, he can't do anything. Meanwhile, he said I should keep driving it in hopes that it will get worse so they can figure it out. I'm worried that I may be causing long term damage, and that I may get stuck in the middle of an intersection without power. Is there anything they didn't check that they should have? Should I take it to another mechanic?
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So for the last week my Civic has been making a low, rumbling sound (almost like an overly powerful bass system or a muffler) and vibrating whenever the car is idling from a cold start. The noise is most pronounced when the car is started but continues for a short time while I am driving, but only when I take my foot off of the gas in low RPM (below 1.0k). Whenever I accelerate, the noise stops, but when I go in reverse the noise is becomes louder. Also, the noise is very faint from outside of the car, but very pronounced from inside. After about 20-30 minutes of driving it usually goes away. What could be causing this?
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I have a manual transmission 2002 Honda Civic. Recently when the nights started getting cooler 20's and 30's, my car will not start. The starter will not grind or even click like it's trying to start. All the other electronic devices seem to operate normally, dome lights, head lights, dash lights, radio. Replaced the battery thinking it was the problem. No difference. If I turn the headlights on for a few seconds, the car starts fine. If the temperature is in the 40's the car starts without any problems. The car can sit for days without activities, as long as the temperature seems to be above about 40 degrees there is no problem. As soon as the temperature goes down, the car doesn't want to start again. I was thinking it may be the alternator not recharging the battery enough to give me my cold cranking amps, but before I dig into that mess, Are there places I can take my alternator to and have it tested to see if it is the problem?
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So I just bought this 08 civic LX (110k miles). After a few days of flawless driving, we noticed a couple wires NOT connected that were coming from the hood opener-sensor thing. Plugged them together and noticed no difference in the car until I let the car sit for about 6 hours then thats when the trouble started. Tried starting the car and the engine had trouble cranking then would stop. Pulled the key out and tried a couple more times and finally the engine started. The next day I had to do the same thing to get the car to start and now 2 days later the car wont even crank. No ticking, no cranking- nothing. Battery date is 10/14 so its coming up on 2 years old. When I turn the car to "On", everything works (stereo, lights, headlights, dashboard lights- everything). You would notice no difference until you tried starting the car.
I haven't gotten to it yet but I haven't tried cleaning the battery connections. Just looking at them I cannot notice any problems or visual corrosion. Im thinking that because I plugged those wires from the hood-sensor-thing, its a bad sensor and drew current from the battery while the car was off.
If this was the case then jumping the car would probably fix it but nope, not my lucky day. Jumping the car didn't work at all and before I start checking fuses and connections, what the problem could be.
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The low fuel indicator light has quit working on my 1999 Honda Civic. My wife ran out of gas one night and I want to fix it. The fuel gauge itself still works.
I removed the instrument cluster and found that the bulb does work.
I got to the top of the gas tank by swinging the back seat bottom cushion out of the way. I unplugged the three electrical connectors there and inspected the wiring. It all looked OK and I plugged things back together.
It will take some driving to get to a low-fuel condition and see if the light is somehow working now. If i does not, what next? Replace the fuel gauge sending unit in the gas tank? (It seems the switch that turns on the low-fuel indicator light is incorporated in that unit - is that right?)
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