Civic - Honda :: 2005 - Steering Is Harder To The Left Than To The Right
Jan 13, 2014
I have a recently purchased '05 Civic 1.7.I've noticed that the steering takes significantly more effort to turn left than to the right. Turning right, even when moving at a good clip, I can turn using 1 finger. It takes a decent grip to make the same turn to the left. I've also tried this from sitting still - same thing.
The alignment, as far as driving goes, seems pretty straight. I've also had a Honda shop that I trust from experience look into the issue to see if there is any physical signs of damage, bent parts... anything. They are very confident that all parts related to the front steering and suspension are in good shape and that both wheels are even.
I am a little stumped as to how any physical damage would only affect turning the wheel in one direction. I wonder if there is something that would reduce the effectiveness of the power steering in just one direction???
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
95 Honda Civic. Manual Trans and Steering. CV joints have 40K since rebuild, 50K on tires. Tire Press and Tq is good. Steering does not pull either way, suspension feels tight. Happens with/without brakes. I noticed that the steering wheel has developed an occasional left right shake that is proportional to the speed of the car. Seems to be most pronouced about 45 mph, however it continues until the car comes to a stop sometimes, well below the speed an unbalanced tire might be an issue. I noticed the problem when it started getting cold and can not figure out if it a road issue (in IL = bad roads), or a car issue.
View 2 Replies
My 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
View 1 Replies
I have a '98 Honda Civic that is regularly maintained and seems fine with the exception of a starting problem when left outside. I have it in a garage normally and have never had a problem starting it. But when left outside, it usually takes a couple of hours for the car to warm to the outside temperture as it rises. The battery is new and the spark plugs seem fine so I am at a loss.
View 2 Replies
Noticed this morning that my Honda Civic is making a metallic scraping noise while moving -- happens when not braking. Appears to be coming from the left front. I noticed it at very low speeds. It isn't exactly the "wah-wah-wah" grinding sound that changes a little in pitch as the wheel rotates that I'd expect from a bearing. I've been through a bunch of Youtube videos from people diagnosing various wheel- and brake-related problems and haven't found one that matches mine yet.
View 3 Replies
When I push down (to test the suspension) on the front left part of my car, it depresses and comes up. The car stabilizes (stops shaking) nearly instantly. However, when I press it down, it makes a squeaky sound. Sort of a short lived, high pitch sound. The sound comes from the area where the struts/coil springs are located. I drive a 1998 Honda Civic DX 2-door.
View 2 Replies
Starting about 100 miles ago I began getting a knocking sound from my left front wheel, which was not very noticeable at first, but now is. There is one knock with each rotation of the wheel that can be felt a little bit through the steering wheel. I suspect either the wheel bearings or a CV joint. But one thing confuses me--when under heavy acceleration or while braking, the sound & feeling almost completely disappear. I would not have guessed to get that behaviour from either of the 2 problems I suspect. Do one of these problems usually exhibit this kind of behaviour?
View 12 Replies
I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
View 14 Replies
1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
View 18 Replies
My honda just celebrated its 155000 mile and low and behold it was greeted with a vibration in the steering column. It gets worse on uneven roads and pretty much goes away on smooth roads... What it might be?
View 1 Replies
2003 Honda Civic. Any speed between 30 and 50, car suddenly starts pronounced steering wheel shimmy, too intense to ignore. You can park, start up again and it's gone.
View 1 Replies
In recent months there is a new noise in my 97 Civic (75,000 miles). In any hard turn and particularly on U-turns there is a grumbling sound which seems to come from the front end. The noise doesn't happen on gentle turns. It grumbles a bit on 90 degree turns and wholeheartedly grumbles on U-turns. I checked the power steering resevoir and it is full so it is between the lines.
View 2 Replies
05' Civic HX 5 speed with 167K. I picked up the car two years ago with 134K on the OD, and the only service records were regular oil changes.
Did: Timing belt; Valve job; Brake job. Both dealer and tire shop have gone over it / safety checked it twice. About 10K miles ago it developed a racket (rotational noise, as if something was coming apart.) above 1,800RPM. "Can hear from a block away" in 1st gear, to a lesser extent in 2nd, etc (no racket revving, only in gear). CV joints, bearings, anything belt driven, has been checked out.
Figured it was the transmission, but it shifts perfectly - and I've drained the oil twice, perfectly clear, and no shavings on the magnet. I know the clutch is original (doesn't slip, don't want to spend $700 if I don't have to). The car, other then the noise, runs as if it's new, and averages 34MPG, so I'd like to keep it!
View 19 Replies
I have honda civic 2005 with 170,000 miles on. My car has been little shaky with cold start in the morning and Engine light finally on. I was told that I need new fuel injectors from local mechanics. I'm a poor student so I decided to fix it myself. I was able to reach down to fuel rail and It was very challenging to take the rail & injectors out. After I finally pop them out with long driver/hammer, It is even harder to put new ones inside, all the way in. I tried put some oil at the end but still did not completely go in. Is there any special tool I need to use to put them in? I tried oils...ect.
View 9 Replies
I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
View 9 Replies
my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
View 10 Replies
My husband owns a 2005 Honda Civic with 192K miles on it. For the past 3 months, the thermostat has been floating to hot (H). He took it in to a mechanic who could not reenact the problem and could not find anything wrong. The mechanic replaced the thermostat indicator. The problem persisted without any sort of consistency. It would go to hot on the highway when he was going at high speeds and back down again and would also do it while idling at a stop light. We took the car in again and, again, the mechanic could find nothing wrong. Since then, the problem has become more frequent. Additionally, while the AC is on, when the thermostat goes to (H), the A/C is impacted...it starts blowing warm air versus cool. Again, it does not remain this way. A moment later it could go back to the midpoint and the AC then starts blowing cool air again.
View 3 Replies
2000 Honda Civic DX, green, four doors, 91,000 miles. A few weeks ago I noticed that the steering wheel was loose when driving but only about 30% of the time--didn't seem to be related to whether the car was warmed up or time of day or speed, just that it happened when the car was moving. The steering wheel would have play when the wheels were pointed/driving straight and the looseness went away when turning. I brought it in to the mechanic and of course he couldn't get it to happen when he drove it. Replaced worn inner tie rods, did a power steering flush/replaced the power steering fluid and did a front end alignment. Drove fine for two weeks but then it started occurring again, this time even more loose/more play in the steering, still only when driving straight. Oh, just one time (so far) a few days ago it was loose when I was standing still at a stop light.
View 10 Replies
We have a 99 Honda Civic that just started leaking power steering fluid. My mother was out with it when it suddenly ran dry so she bought some power steering fluid from autozone unaware that Hondas aren't supposed to use generic power steering fluid. Now the reservoir is dry again, the fluid leaked out in a matter of hours, so what kind of damage could the non Honda fluid have caused? Also, what could be causing a leak that fast?
View 5 Replies
92 Civic DX hatchback, non-Calif. AT
Power steering suddenly not working when cold (~20 oF) in AM; nearly impossible to turn the wheel (for my wife). When I get home from work, and it's warmer (~30 oF), it works fine (for me). When it (mostly) behaves, it does drive fine (though I would say that the variable-assist PS is no longer as "tight" at high speeds as it once was, but the car's nearly 20 years old!
This just began a week ago (live just north of New York city), and has now happened enough times that I believe her So, since the PS fluid reservoir was just below lower line, I topped it up (Honda fluid!). No obvious leaks (I checked by putting some paper under the car, and watching for drips for a few days, including turning wheel from lock to lock over the paper).
Is it the pump? Or should I just flush the system (and how do you do that)?
View 3 Replies
My wife was driving our 2003 Honda Civic hybrid (125,000 miles) and the electronic power steering went out. She managed to get it parked, called me, and when I arrived everything seemed to work fine. (She said the yellow EPS light came on, but she didn't know what that meant.) I drove it for a while and had no problems. A few days later my daughter was driving and the entire car shut down. I jump started it and everything worked OK, but I took it to the dealer for a diagnosis. They could find nothing wrong (no codes). However, the next day the car once again would not start I replaced the 'starter' battery (the lithium-ion man battery pack had actually been replaced at around 79,000 miles--right before the expiration of the warranty!).
Now it seems fine, but my wife and daughter refuse to drive it, and I'm not sure if the problem is fixed. Here are my questions:1. Since this is a hybrid, once the car is running a failure of the 'starter' batter should have no effect on the EPS, or anything else, right? It all runs off the main lithium-ion battery pack. However, replacing the 'starter' battery seems to have solved the problem--or at least a dead 'starter' batter is temporally (if not causally?) connected with the other failures. This might be just a coincidence, since seems odd to have the 'starter' battery part of the larger electrical set-up. The dealership had no clue and I can't figure it out.2.
The first time just the EPS went out, but the second time the entire car shut down. This doesn't make much sense--especially since the dealer couldn't pull any codes. The car's auto-stop shuts the engine off all the time at speeds below 10 mph (this is a semi-hybrid), so why the total shut down?3. Why didn't the dealership tell me the 'starter' battery needed replacement? I've checked my records, and it seems to be the one that came with the car in 2003 (actually fall 2002). Should I give up?
View 14 Replies
