I replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 Civic 3000 miles ago. Now it is pulsing badly again when stepping on the brakes. I can feel the pulse in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. What should I be looking for when I pull off the wheels again.
View 8 RepliesMy 2005 Honda Civic just made it through a blizzard (outside the whole time). This morning I started driving it, and whenever I got above 45 mph the steering wheel started vibrating / whobbling very badly. My car seat was also vibrating. I poured hot water over the rims when I got home and that did not seem to work. Should I take it to a car wash? Is my car safe to drive?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
I have a 2005 honda civic. About a month ago it started overheating. Drives Ok on the highway but heats up to the H mark almost as soon as I get off the highway. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, radiator, flushed the system, most hoses, fan, 2 sensors, timing belt, spark plugs and had the head gasket checked 3 times by 2 different shops. Both said it was fine. The mechanic that has done most of the work is baffled. Says he has never seen anything like this and is at a loss as to what to do next. I am supposed to drive this car halfway across the country in a week to meet my husband who is in the air force. Should I just sell this piece of junk!?
View 10 RepliesBrakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
View 5 RepliesI leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
View 6 RepliesI have a problem with the front rotors on my '01 Impala warping. The pulsing is really bad when decelerating from highway speed. They will last maybe a month after installing before they start to warp again. I purchase my parts at the local NAPA store. Is there something I could be doing wrong during installation or it bad parts (cheap material)?. Could it be an issue with other front end components?. The car has 173,000 miles on it.
View 19 RepliesMy front disks are pulsing & the thickness is near minimum, so I guess I'll have to replace them soon. Is any particular brand better than others?
These stock ones are made by Bosch and I'm not impressed with their lack of resistance to warpage. I see "Drilled and Slotted" available at Rockauto. What's your experience? Are they any good?
2004 Honda Civic with 166000 miles.
--Had Check Engine light on for a couple days and code reader said P0135. Parts guy said this means "Bank 1", my Haynes book calls this code for " Primary Sensor 1" Is this the same as "Upstream"?
--Replaced O2 sensor (Denso 192400-1160 05F12) myself with a new one (Bosch 15710). Fit perfectly, plugged right in.
--Check engine light goes off for about 5 minutes but comes back on with code P0134.
What should I do now? I replaced the sensor closer to the engine before the catalytic converter. Very easy to reach from the top. I rented the correct tools and did not damage or force anything. Is there a second O2 sensor after the cat that is not so easy to reach? Was that the one I needed to replace? Did I misunderstand the meaning of "upstream" or "Bank 1"?
Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
View 3 RepliesI've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
On 8/18/04 VW told me that my 03' Passat (38'000 miles) needed new rotors & pads. I bought the car new. They told me that VW used rear pads that eroded quickly and provided new rotors on the house. I decided not to press my luck and paid for new pads. I look at my pads now through the rims and it seems dangerously thin and the edge of rotors has gouge all the way around. HAS ENOUGH TIME PASSED FOR A LEGIT REPLACEMENT ON THESE PARTS?
View 4 RepliesHow to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
View 2 RepliesSo my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
I'm getting sick of having my rims getting dirty after one hour of driving because of all the brake dust that the OEM pads give off. I keep hearing from shops that ceramic brake pads are not only more quiet but will put out much less brake dust. On the other hand, Lexus is telling me that if I do that, I will forsure damage the rotors but I really feel like they just want me to keep the car stock which is why they're saying that.
Are ceramic brake pads a bad idea with stock rotors?
I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
View 10 RepliesOK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
View 3 RepliesHave a 2009 BMW 328i with 78,000 miles. In the last year, the front brake pads and rotors have been replaced by the dealer 3 times, each time because of "warping" which is their diagnosis of a steering wheel shimmy (left to right oscillation) that occurs under light to moderate braking, especially at highway speeds.
The strange part: replacing the rotors and pads seems to solve the issue, but only for a few hundred miles.
I am led to conclude that something is causing very accelerated uneven deposition of pad material to the rotors - but what could it be? Suspension components and bushings have been inspected and check out. So do calipers. Recently completed: four wheel alignment, wheel rounding and balancing did not solve the issue. One dealer will no longer look at problem until "all four tires replaced" - but tires look fine, they are OEM RFTs with about 4/32nd's of tread left. Car seems fine cruising on highway - steering wheel shimmy only occurs under braking.
2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
View 9 Replies