Civic - Honda :: 2004 - Power Door Lock Doesn't Work Well
Jul 22, 2011
I have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
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I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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I just bought a 2004 Ford F150 supercrew, and I noticed that the rear passenger power locks don't work.
- I can manually lock and unlock the door. But when I try to use the powerlocks, nothing happens at all.
- I have powerlock controls on both front doors and when I try to lock/unlock all the doors, they all work properly besides that rear passenger door.
- I have checked all fuzes, they are fine.
I realize it could be the actuator? But, I can manually lock/unlock the door with no problem, so could it still be that? How do I troubleshoot to see if it is the actuator or just a wiring problem.
I have all the tools and a meter, just don't know how to troubleshoot the problem! I've done a lot of googling about this and there isn't really anything I've seen on troubleshooting to see if its wiring or actuator.
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I have an 04 sport trac adrenalin. Just bought it a week ago. I have a couple questions.
#1. Do the adrenalin models have a limited slip diff?
#2. My speedometer works whenever it wants to, is this just a cluster issue?
#3. All of the window switches on the other doors don't work.
My rear window switch works fine. The driver door controls all the windows just fine. Each separate door switch doesn't work. But say you're rolling the passenger door window down from the driver door, and you hit the passenger door switch, it will still interrupt it and stop rolling the window down.
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My last issue is resolved and the next day my door handle broke, so I purchased a new replacement put it in, and now my drivers door power lock wont work. I can see it twitching but not going fully either way. the passenger side works fine however. it still works if I di it manually but I have keyless so that's a annoying hassle!!!
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So I've got a 2010 Honda Civic Sedan. Recently the door locks on all the doors but the driver door have become weak. In that when you hit the lock or unlock button they may or may not fully lock/unlock. And if you listen they sound like motors that are not getting enough power. I had the battery and alternator checked and they both come back fine. Initially I thought it was just the passenger door but after more investigation it seems to be all but the drivers door.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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So I looked at an 03 Excursion tonight, has some of the usual suspects, but the rear hatch lock doesn't work at all, with the key or with the power locks. This anything other than a "replace its guts" type operation? I've done the foil thing with my F350, actually i cut pennies and replaced the piece with that, but this seems mechanical.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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My red triangle light came on! and the PS light came on the square screen and my power steering is in the dumps (doesn't work).
Where would be the first place to check? could it possibly be the accessory belt that came off/broke? is it hard to access/replace that?
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2006 Honda Civic, 150k miles .. A/C does not work when its hot outside. When the A/C does work it cools well..
When I take the car out of garage the A/C cools well but as I start driving and if the weather outside is hot, the A/C stops cooling after some time. And it will then not cool again till I park the car in a garage and the engine has cooled down..
If the day temperature is generally high and the garage is hot then the A/C will not cool right from the beginning..
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I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
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My car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
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This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
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I Have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is running rough and the windows stopped working and the temp gauge doesn't rise. Would this be do to a bad/failing alternator or something else?
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The driver side door doesn't lock unlock from the remote usually. But it does work sometimes. I think the remote battery might not be the problem, because the other doors open and close fine. Could i repair it myself?
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it seems that when you get in the car and drive away, the doors don't lock themselves automatically, which is a big surprise to me since my previous 2003 focus had this feature.
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I have a 2010 JSW and my key fob won't always lock my door, do I need to purchase a new door locking mechanism? I know there's a proper name for the part but I cannot figure it out.
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I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
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My '99 Passat 1.8T has an intermittent problem with the electric door locks. The rear passenger lock sometimes doesn't lock, but I can always get it working by unlocking it with the remote and relocking it.
The driver door lock is now really the problem. It mostly doesn't work - in fact, not at all over the last week or so. What is the most likely cause? How much trouble is it to take apart the entire door to get to it? I have had the door panel off which isn't too bad, but the rest of it looks tough.
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