Civic - Honda :: 2004 - Engine Stops Suddenly Only For Half-second Then Runs Again Like Normal
Mar 17, 2012
I've got a 2004 Honda Civic with the 1.7L engine. I drive for about five miles and the engine stops suddenly but only for a half-second then runs again like normal. At the same time, there is a click - click behind my glove box. Relays I'm almost sure. And the way it happens is :click > engine stopsclick > engine continues running normally. Used to happen only on hot days, now it does when it's cool out once the engine is warmed up.
After it does this over and over about 6 times the Check Engine Light comes on and it doesn't jerk so hard, but stumbles kinda mildly, but all the time - though usually by this time I have gotten off the road and am swearing loudly.The Honda mechanics are running the clock RIGHT NOW and it may cost me a fortune - Also, there is no error code showing. Nothing. And I also replaced some relays, to no avail, because I read about cracked solder problems someplace...
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So I drive a 2001 civic 5-speed and recently my check engine light doesn't go off right away after I start my car. It'll blink for a good 5-10 seconds then stops. Thought it might be the oil, changed it didn't do anything. What it can be?
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I am at my wits' end with my 98 Honda Civic LX. The problem starts around late summer of last year. It is sporadic, so I didn't quite pay attention until one day the engine died on the highway after I picked up the kids at the school. It didn't make any sound nor giving any warnings, just suddenly died. After that highway episode, it seems like it just taken its own fancy schedule as far as when to die, so to say. In a given day, it could 4 episodes in a day. Then it runs perfectly for some weeks then it starts again and went away again.
It just quietly dies while being driven. I had to turn it completely off, wait for some moment and try to turn it on again. Sometimes it just turns on again without me being frustrated and there were moments when I had to do several attempts. Once I heard clicking sound before the engine died, only once, the rest makes no sound at all. No lights are on.
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When I was driving my car the engine was running fine, but all of a sudden there would be no power to the wheels as I was driving. I tried shifting the car down into lower gears, but the car still was just coming to a stop even though I was revving the engine. I was able to limp home because I could turn the car off for about 30 seconds, and when I would start it back up the engine and transmission would work fine together for a few blocks and then I would have the same problem. I did check my transmission fluid, which was low (at the lower dot when hot). Could this problem be fixed by simply changing and filling the transmission fluid? Or do you think it is something else? My car is an automatic with about 114,000 miles. At about 98,000 miles I had a full tune-up and my timing belt was replaced.
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I have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
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2004 civic ex with over 300,000 miles
For last 5 months or so, I have to keep full tank of gas. If the tank is half, the car starts stalling, and the first sign of it is when I am taking a sharp right turn on highway exit. It's like the engine dies for a second or two and comes back when the right turn is over. If I keep driving and the tanks get lower, it will happen even without the right turn. I just fill up the tank and the problem is fixed.
Check engine light is on sometimes (but not always) with these codes P0171B and P0497, but I am not sure it's related.
There is sometime also a short delay in starting the car, irrelevant if the tank is full, (a second or two of extra cranking) but that might be a different issue too.
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Have a 2001 Civic DX, Manual Transmission, 228K miles. 1.7L SOHC.
Recently changed front motor mount and timing belt on the same day.
I noticed the car running rough and is only rough at certain RPM. Here are the rpm ranges it runs rough, 700rpm which is idle, 2200-2400rpm and 3400rpm approximately. It idles at 700rpm which I believe is the idle rpm on my car, so thinking my timing is not off. One more thing I noticed is if I have AC on and reving down in rpm it sounds like it is about to shutoff (never shuts off) and get a stronger vibration and same thing when I turn the AC on at idle. With ac on my rpm are 720rpm give and take a few. I been driving with above symptom for 300mi+ so far, even got it upto 95mph, don't know if it is an indication of anything. Got new spark plugs installed at 220K miles.
Could it be the motor mount or my harmonic balancer is out of balance. I did have to use 3/4" impact wrench to knock the harmonic balancer bolt loose. It is a little rusty given I got 228K miles on it.
I am just dreading the thought of my timing being off by a tooth, me and my friend checked the timing marks per oem manual, he checked the cam shaft pulley marks and I did the crankshaft. When we installed the timing belt I only turned the engine counter clockwise so I would not cause a problem with timing belt slack. My AC belt may be a little too tight as well.
The motor mount I put in was an aftermarket one that I bought from amazon. But I have put in aftermarket mount before on the same car and never had anything like this. I am planning to loosen the motor mount, shake the engine, tighten them back up and see if it makes a difference. May be the engine is not seated properly.
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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96 civic 120K miles, stock, automatic.
In March I was running low on fuel, maybe 1 gallon left in the tank. It took a few cranks and on the last try i gave it a little gas and it started, albeit very rocky for about 1 minute of driving, filled up immediately and 2 freeway miles later, no real issues. I live in LA so very low ambient temperature is not a problem.
April through May, starting was a little rocky, it was inconsistently rocky too, sometimes there was no problem. Usually it's weak, stuttering, sometimes just cranking but I seem to get it to start. I stopped giving the pedal gas because I read that's bad (I own a vintage bike, so it's news to me). I don't drive that far and figured I'd try some Seafoam and some freeway miles would clean out any debris. Worked for that tank a bit for the next tank before the problem came back.
Still getting the rough starts, but now when I give the car gas as I pull out sometimes it doesn't accelerate for 15-30 seconds, maybe 25 yards then it drive like normal. No dying at all but getting worse with starting up.
I've tried turning the key (not turning the engine over) 5 times and cranking on the 6th and it seems to work. I thought maybe it's the fuel pump or fuel filter but read it could be an ignition coil/ spark plug/ spark plug wire issue. Two different ball games.
My MPG is not really droppingI had a new fuel filter put in in February as routine maintenance (thing was on so tight had to bring it to a shop so no rookie mistakes there). Timing belt &water pump replaced 6,000 miles ago
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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My Honda has 61000 miles on it, it's an automatic . Just had oil change done at 59000, told was good for 5000 mil. The last few days I noticed a trrrr (kind of like a playing card in bike spokes but louder) noise coming from the front of the car, it lasts for a few seconds then stops. It happens mostly when it is in drive but not moving. Stops if I put in any other gear, doesn't happen while I have foot on gas. I did hear it very faintly today while coasting up to a red light otherwise it's always happened while in drive with foot on break. First time it happened was a few seconds after I stopped at a red light. Second time it happened was after the car was parked for an hour. When I got back in and threw it in drive it did it.
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My 2007 Honda Civic LX car horn suddenly stopped working after I had just used the horn a few minutes earlier. It does not work from the steering wheel and it does not work from the remote when I lock the car. The fuse seems to be OK (the horn seems to be on the same circuit as the brake lights and those are working).
I believe I can hear the relay under the dashboard clicking when I try to use the horn so I suspect that the horns are actually broken. But I was wondering how many horns the 2007 Honda Civic LX has? I have been told different things by different car mechanic/dealers. One said that it has only 1 horn and the other says it has two (one "high" and one "low"). What is correct?
If it has two horns I would be less inclined to think that both horns stopped working at the exact same time so it might just be a bad wiring or something What is reasonable to pay for repairing the horn at a mechanic?
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A friend has a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 120,000 miles that she just bought the end of 2013. The car was kept immaculate by the previous owner. This week as she was driving, she said the temperature needle suddenly went all the way to H. Earlier in the day, she had noticed the A/C was not consistently cool but didn't think much of it as there were no other problems with the car. When the temp needle suddenly went to H, she shut off the a/c and before she could pull over the temp needle went back to normal. She checked the coolant level which was very low and she took it to the dealer who ran multiple tests including checking the thermostat, cylinder compression tests, etc but they could find nothing wrong. I keep telling her there is a reason it did that and that coolant doesn't just disappear and that I think she should take it back.
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it's a 2000 honda civic EX. I pulled into a parking spot and slowed down, then decided to speed back up and when I accelerated it was like the car was in neutral. No gear would drive. Turned off the engine and re started and it shifted and did fine then about a 1/4 mile down the road the same thing happened. It just switched into neutral. The transmission fluid is full and clean and the filter has been changed. There was no warning signs at all.
The only caveat I can think of is last week at 15 mph my front passenger wheel fell off after someone replaced a tire. I traveled less than 10 feet on the wheel. But didn't think the transmission would be low enough to hit the ground.
At first I thought transmission clutch but it would be doing it in one direction? Then I thought maybe a pump? Or could it be a sensor or the torque converter.
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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Well I did it, moved Prius out of garage to drive, working on other car when Prius engine starts up runs a bit then stops. You should have seen the look on my wife's face, she just kept looking a me for a reason it would do that. We are still learning a lot about the Prius and she thought it may be normal. I started to tell her some high tech lie but decided to fess up and admit I had forgot to push the off button.
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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I have a 1998 Honda accord with 4 cyl. engine. Recently, the engine would stop at then end of the first block after 8 hours or longer of parking. I am very light on the gas pedal. I generally release the gas and let it roll for a couple of seconds before applying the brakes at the stop sign and during the time, the engine seem to throttle a bit then stops. After a restart and applying gas, it seem fine. What can be wrong with it?
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It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
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I own a 2004 Honda Pilot with 91,000 miles. I have all fluids changed at required or better intervals. At approximately 70,000 miles, my car started making a strange vibration sound when I would hit 45-47 mph and immediately stops once I hit 50mph. My husband says it sound as though we're driving over a very mild rumble strip (as in a toll gate). We did take it to a mechanic, and naturally, it didn't make the noise then. Now it consistently makes this noise.
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When I turn the dial on my sunroof control just a click or two, the roof opens to a little more than half open. Basically, the roof has maybe 3 positions between 1/2 and all the way open despite the multitude of click positions on the dial. It's nowhere near precise. I'd like to be able to open it just a little sometimes (not tilt, open).
Is this just the way it is or will my VW dealer be able to adjust something?
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