Civic - Honda :: 2004 - Drive Button Blinks When Car Is In Park / Codes PO700 And PO717
Jun 22, 2015
We have a 2004 honda civic hybrid, and it is having shifting problems....the drive button blinks when it is in park, and then doesn't engage into drive or reverse. We have a code reader and 2 codes come up...po 700 and po 717. We originally replaced the transmission because those codes were coming up, but it still doesn't work and now we have these two codes. We have read that it could be a sensor...if so, how challenging is that to replace? This all happened when we had the car 1/2 sold. ZERO problems up until the sell day....so obviously we didn't sell it, but want to fix it so we can.
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In my 2006 Civic I intermittently get a dirty gas smell in the interior after I drive and park the car, and then come back a few minutes later and start it. Do I have a gas leak of some kind? I have not noticed a loss in mileage.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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We have Elantra - 4 Door sedan 2006 model. We have not driven much; about 23000 miles. All of a sudden we got Check Engine Light ON. I took the car and got it tested at Pep Boys to get codes. It came out as PO700 and PO885.
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I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 190,000 miles. When I turn on the a/c after about 10 minutes the drive light blinks and the speedometer stops working and the odometer stop working also. So I have been unhooking the battery and it resets everything and the light works as well as the speedometer and odometer. I have about 2,000 miles on a new cylinder head and timing belt water pump, and battery and cables, which was quite expensive and I am wondering if its worth even fixing but there is absolutely no rust and I love the vehicle 28 mpg mini van can't beat.
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This is a 2009 honda civic lx... AC not working but the button lights go on.... but when I turn the ac or heater on no air comes out, no noise. just complete silence. What might be going on?
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission that started acting up tonight. I am having difficulty getting it to shift out of park. Once I finally get it out of park, it shifts to everything else fine. It's not because the wheel is locked (checked that already). What could be the problem and how cheap can I get it fixed? I just got socked nearly $800 for an alternator and battery when I broke down in Indianapolis during my vacation and was lead to believe, by the garage that repaired it, that my serpentine belt was going to go at any time. In any event, it's the only car my family has, it has 177,777 miles on it (roughly) and we can't afford to trade it in for another vehicle. We have to keep it running.
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A bit of a long story, but brought my 2005 automatic honda civic into a mechanic for timing belt changeout (im at 112k miles) but expressed my concern over a noise persisting for approx. a week, sounding like it was stuck in a lower gear... but RPMs were fine. The mechanic looked at it all day and came to the vague conclusion that a bearing in the final gear of the transmission was busted. Brought it in for the diagnostics and had to take their mechanic on a test drive so he would hear what noise I was talking about. OK, days later = new transmission. Within 24 hours I hear a noise mimicking what I heard prior to work. They tell me its a wheel bearing that they couldn't properly diagnose without first replacing the transmission. Why not replace the wheel bearing before the transmission? How can they prove to me what was the real problem if I am still hearing noises?!
48 hours after getting the car back I wake up and start the car to warm her up before driving to work. She sits in park, running, for approx. 10 minutes and when I hop in, step on the brakes and try to pop it into drive from park, she is locked up and will not shift anywhere. In a panic I call honda and they tell me about a little 'trap door' i can pop off next to my shifter and manually flip it out of park. Fine. It works and I get to work, then have no problems getting my car into drive until the next morning when the exact same thing happens. (It is suggested it is a brake switch, but once it got into drive the brake lights worked fine.) So, this next morning I can not manually pop it into drive. It is currently at that Honda dealership, and has been there for 5 days, where, of course, they have not had ONE problem getting the car into drive.
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My friend's older Honda Civic (automatic transmission)- year is 1995 - has been getting stuck in PARK off and on the past 10 days - she was shown how to "override it" by AAA by putting the car key in some slot near where the gear shifting handle is. She can shift it out of PARK and into 4th gear and then can start the car. but now sometimes she cannot get even get the car to start. It has happened about 8 times in the past 10 days. It first happened about 6 months ago -- but now it's happening almost daily. It has been very rainy here lately (in the Bay Area of Northern CA) - can this be an electrical thing that is happening? Wish I could give more details -- my friend needs her car for work - so she is a bit worried that her car may be on it's way out or headed for major repairs. Her financial reserves are not great so she'll have to find a good "used" vehicle again too.
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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Today I replaced my stock 95 Civic headlights with brighter (more white) halogen bulbs. The installation was fast and easy, however, I've noticed one problem after the installation; the remote power locks are no longer working. The car remote still flashes green when I press the button but I get no response from the power locks.
Because of this the alarm no longer activates when I lock my car from the remote. What could be causing the issue? Are the lights taking up too much power? Do I need a better battery? The lights are a big improvement from the stock lights however its very important for my car to be secure. It's been broken into twice, thieves love to target old Hondas...
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I have kind of a strange problem with my 1992 Honda Civic. When I have my car in park with the headlights on my left brake light doesn't light up but my right does. When I put the car in gear or parked with the headlights off, the right brake light no longer lights up but the left does. What I should do? Hopefully there's a cheap fix because my car's not worth a whole lot.
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My daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
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I had my car towed to the shop today because when I put the gear in drive, the engine would gun like it was in neutral. It would go in reverse, but not in drive. I asked them to check the transmission fluid and it wasn't low. What it could be?
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My 96 civic stalls when i put in drive sometimes, problem comes go's, was told tps sensor or trans control solenoid ?
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My wife's(who is in school out of state) 1998 Civic EX 2 door coupe with 127.7k miles has been showing the Check Engine light for a week now - had her get it checked at a local Meineke and the codes are P0700 and P0715 - also the D4 light is constantly flashing while she drives. There is no discernible issues/change in the driving experience except she says the engine sounds louder and sometimes it accelerates slowly. I believe Honda has a TSB on this (01-012). I saw a member on a honda civic forum was able to get this resolved under an extended emission warranty [URL]..... - so I called Honda customer care but they said the TSB does not apply to my 1998 Civic.
Is there something I am missing in reference to coverage from Honda for this problem - I see that the gentleman who was successful in getting this done from the dealer under an extended emissions warranty had a 96 Civic and someone mentioned 96-98 model years in the discussion on this issue. We have a baby on the way so will be buying a bigger car before the end of March - intend to keep this car as a secondary for occasional use (if the cost to fix this issue is not in the thousands) - so I am trying to figure out what makes the most sense :
1. Should we bring the car to a local dealer ? this one dealer said they will charge to diagnose and if I get the work done there - the testing cost will go towards repairs.
2. Drive the car as is - and try to find a local mechanic when I'm there next month.
3. Get a transmission drain and fill - believe a trans flush is not usually.
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My Honda Civic DX (1997) is over 200k. Over the past six months, it's been to the repair shop multiple times including each of the brake pads, shoes were replaced. Nowadays, it's making a squeaking and scraping noise as the vehicle is moving at any speed. The squeak comes and next the scraping. The sound is becoming more pronounced, it seems, daily. What the problem is coming from?
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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I have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?
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Honda Civic, 2003, around 180k miles. Code P1457 is showing, no drive ability problems. Everything seems to point to the evap canister valve as a common problem. I crawl under next weekend and start replacing parts...
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So my civic has 167,000 miles on it. I have replaced the thermostat and radiator but the mechanics are stumped. The problem is when I am driving on the highway for about an hour or longer (I live in the mountains, so this is not easy driving) and when I come back into town and get stuck at a red light, the temperature in the car starts to slowly rise. I have never let it fully overheat.
When the temperature is high, I have turned on the heat and it has come out cold. I have opened the hood as the temp is high and there is nothing leaking that I can tell. It feels hot/smells hot but I can't figure it out. The reserve tank has fluid in it, but I cannot see inside the radiator to see if there is fluid in it. This problem has been happening for about 6-7 months, so I just try not to drive it outside of town anymore. When I am driving around town, it does not seem to have an issue.
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