Civic - Honda :: 2003 - How To Replace Manual Transmission To Automatic
Feb 27, 2011
We have a 2003 Honda Civic EX with a manual transmission (5spd). Two of my daughters are close to getting their drivers license, however, they don't drive stick and are hesitant to learn how. My wife is asking me how difficult or expensive it would be to have an automatic transmission placed in the car so they can use it. The car is in excellent shape. It only has 67,000 miles. Is this feasible? Why or why not? If it is feasible who could do it?
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I have a 2008 Honda Fit. It is a manual transmission. I'd like to convert it to an automatic. Is this possible?
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Would it work? I saw this on CL 2000 Ford F250 6 speed manual 2wd transmission. It says it is for 2WD but I don't think that matters because the transfer case is what make it 4WD anyway right?
I don't love automatics. With a manual trans, some new gears and the dully conversion this thing would be like driving a giant sports car. Any computer related problems?
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic 5-speed with about 200,000 miles. It is making a low-pitched whining noise when I let the clutch out in neutral. I took it to a mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as the throw out bearing. Being mechanically inclined, I dropped the tranny and changed the clutch and bearing, but started it back up, and the noise is still there - as if I did nothing at all. It is not constant volume - sometimes it is louder than others. It is usually loudest first start of the day. I live in Houston, so its not like it is "cold", just not hot. To be fair to the mechanic, the bearing was quite corroded, but everything else seemed to be working properly.
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Took my 2003 Honda civic hybrid to a budget tune and lube. They said that I needed my fluid changed, I agreed, they changed it (did not flush it). It has 95k on it. Later that night the car broke down, I took it to honda they're telling me that I need a new transmission, there are pieces of a chain in the fluid that they drained. Supposedly the budget tune and lube used a CVT fluid called "Full throttle" honda is telling me that you cannot use anything but honda fluid and the tune and lube is not taking responsibility. Could this have destroyed the transmission?
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic DX hatchback with a 5-gear manual transmission that I have been driving since the day it left the dealership. This morning, on my way to work, I was shifting from third gear to fourth gear and the car stalled. This has happened three times in the last month or so. I recently had my transmission fluid flushed. I'm 95 percent sure this started after the transmission fluid was flushed.
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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Thinking of buying a new civic with mt. One annoying thing is many mt rev higher at speed than automatics.
Tried to find out online how high civic revs, couldn't find it though.
I'm thinking anything over 2500 is going to sound whiny on a long trip.
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My 1998 Civic coupe Si has 160,00 miles and I enjoy her today as much as I did the day I bought her new 15 years ago!Just recently the manual shifting has become heavy and "sticky". Problem popped up almost from 1 day to the next. Not gradual.Still shifts OK, and no other transmission issues.
Second issue: Pinhole in catalytic converter (according to garage). Any way to patch it? Just trying to baby her along without putting too much $ into repair.
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I got a 1990 bmw 735il and I'd like to know how to properly switch from automatic to manual on my transmission it has the switch A to M but I don't know if the car has to be turned off or on, cause I don't want to do it the wrong way
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I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
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I have a legacy. Notice some slippage between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th. Also noticing an extreme burning smell when vehicle first gets started (for about 15 min) it's gagging it's so strong and pours in through defrost but can be smelled standing outside car also. Finally I parked in friends garage and notice some dark weird colored fluid on ground when I backed out, I dont know if it's oil or transmission fluid.
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I have 2013 Honda Accord 6 sp manual with 25k miles on, its clutch was completed gone last week, got new replacement, local Honda customer rep. told me I should watch my driving pattern, should using more break, instead transmission slow down, particular from high speed/high gears. I told them, we have 2008 Civic 5 speed Manual, I taught my two daughters how to drive it, and the car is still running without any problem… And, this is manual transmission car, tell a driver can not using/changing gears slowing down car is a joke… but maybe I am wrong...
Is there a possibility Accord has design problem with inferior clutch materials used on their new 6 speeds manual Accord? Since car has new clutch, should I keep it for a while? Or, sale it immediately? I just can’t not see I am going to come up another 3rd replacement on clutch before the car get into 60K miles.
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid died yesterday and the dealership said that the transmission is ruined and needs to be replaced. It has 102,000 miles and has a Constant Variable Transmission. At 84,000 miles I had the transmission fluid drained and refilled at a local reputable mechanic (not the dealership) and they added 3.5 quarts of Honda ATF fluid instead of CVT fluid.
Is that what killed my transmission? Why was it able to run for 20,000 miles with the wrong fluid? I have been very good about getting oil changes and keeping up on the maintenance. What is the life expectancy of this transmission? Should the mechanic who made the error replace the transmission at no cost to me? Should he reimburse me for my rental car?
What steps should I take?
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My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
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My 2001 manual transmission Honda Civic lost acceleration and died a few weeks ago. Was pressing the gas all the way down and it just wouldn't go. I was able to get the ac/radio to turn on but couldn't get it restarted. After 5 minutes, I got it started and was able to get it through the intersection into a parking lot before it died again. It jerked and made loud popping noises and never would go more than 5 mph the whole time. Had it towed to the shop. They tried to start the car the next morning and did so with no problems. The check engine light showed a timing issue. Later that day, they restarted and no check engine light and no problems, but we knew the timing belt was way overdue (165000 miles, never replaced) so we all hoped I got a lucky warning and they replaced that and sent me on my way.
Two weeks later it did the same thing and died again. This time it was close enough to home to restart it and get it home. It jerked and popped and then at one point it was as if a clog got cleared and I shot off down the street, because I had the pedal to the floor. Then it started decelerating again but I got it home-smelled a slight burning smell. Waited until the next morning, suspecting it would be fine, and drove it to the shop myself with no problems. This time the codes showed it needed a new O2 sensor and a cam shaft sensor. They replaced those, feeling certain that must have been the issue.
Drove it home with no problem, went to leave the house that night and as soon as I got out of the driveway, it started doing it again. This time, though, the car did not die and I was able to turn it around and get it back into the driveway. The shop sent a tow truck and they've had it since, but can't get the car to replicate the problem and there is nothing showing up as being wrong (and I swear I'm not imagining this). Have been assured that it's not the transmission, not the fuel filter. They think it might be something electrical but can't figure it out.
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2002 acura el, basically a fancier canadian version of a civic. 1.7l v-tec engine.
Anyways the (5 speed manual) transmission makes an odd clicking noise that sounds similar to putting a card in bike spokes when you were a kid. Its hard to describe here is a video
It happens 80-90% of the time but occasionally sounds normal, seems to be getting worse lately,responds to rpm increase but gets drowned out around 3200rpm, and cant really be heard in 4th or 5th gear doesn't make the noise when rolling or revving in neutral, or when driving in reverse.Sounds like its coming from the bottom middle of the engine bay, around the input shaft or where the passenger side cv connects.
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I have a 2005 Honda Civic (2-door) and have been told that the transmission bracket (which I assume means the same as a mount) has a crack. So two questions:
1. What it would cost to replace this bracket/mount?
2. What's the worse that can happen if I don't replace it?
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A bit of a long story, but brought my 2005 automatic honda civic into a mechanic for timing belt changeout (im at 112k miles) but expressed my concern over a noise persisting for approx. a week, sounding like it was stuck in a lower gear... but RPMs were fine. The mechanic looked at it all day and came to the vague conclusion that a bearing in the final gear of the transmission was busted. Brought it in for the diagnostics and had to take their mechanic on a test drive so he would hear what noise I was talking about. OK, days later = new transmission. Within 24 hours I hear a noise mimicking what I heard prior to work. They tell me its a wheel bearing that they couldn't properly diagnose without first replacing the transmission. Why not replace the wheel bearing before the transmission? How can they prove to me what was the real problem if I am still hearing noises?!
48 hours after getting the car back I wake up and start the car to warm her up before driving to work. She sits in park, running, for approx. 10 minutes and when I hop in, step on the brakes and try to pop it into drive from park, she is locked up and will not shift anywhere. In a panic I call honda and they tell me about a little 'trap door' i can pop off next to my shifter and manually flip it out of park. Fine. It works and I get to work, then have no problems getting my car into drive until the next morning when the exact same thing happens. (It is suggested it is a brake switch, but once it got into drive the brake lights worked fine.) So, this next morning I can not manually pop it into drive. It is currently at that Honda dealership, and has been there for 5 days, where, of course, they have not had ONE problem getting the car into drive.
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