Civic - Honda :: 2003 - Fan / Blower Motor Not Working After Rotor Replacement And Oil Change
Jul 28, 2011
Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
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Several weeks ago, the blower motor in my 2010 stopped blowing. It came on within a day or so, but failed again, so I replaced it with a new part from Rock Auto: TYC 700249.
The new fan just stopped again. I plugged the harness in and out several times and it did briefly come on a few times, but clearly something else is going on.
I don't know if it's relevant, but after I took out the OEM fan, I experimented by removing the plate from its back that has wires and capacitors (actually, I don't know what I'm talking about) and connected the main prongs directly to a 12V battery. It came on right away. I installed the new fan anyway, figuring it was the plate/wires assembly portion that was bad. The "resistor?"
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
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My 99 f150 blower motor and blinkers slowly but surely went out on me. The hazards still work. I changed the flasher relay and the relay for the blower motor, and nothing. I've checked all the fuses, and checked for wire issues and nothing.
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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Looking for really good ceramic brake pads and rotors for my 2013 Honda Accord LX? I use my car for everyday driving in the city and highway and was hoping to find something that works well in all weather conditions including snow.
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How to replace a blower motor in a 1990 Audi 80 Quattro? I looked for a Chilton and I looked online but couldn't get any info. Actually they don't make a Chilton for Audi during this year. And I couldn't locate any Haynes manuals either.
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How to replace blower motor in 01 Prius. There are no way to get from to it from under the glove box.
Blower motor was working fine. I decided to remove cabin filter. Filter had not been changed for very long time. There was a lot of dirt, pine straw and leaves on top of the filter. When I removed the filter a lot of dirt fell inside the motor. Ever since then motor is working on and off. Often have to hit under the glove box and it works again for a while. Tried to remove the blower but could not get to it.
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Drivers window not working .. I pulled panel and checked voltage at motor when switch was activated 12.8 volts on this vehicle. Is just the motor changed or the whole window mechanism. If so, what are the steps ...
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How hard is it to change the A/C/Heater blower motor. I know about the switch problems but this is the blower motor. I'll probably clean it out and spray something in it before I replace it but I just wondered how hard it is to get to. On another note, this 4 wheel drive Santa Fe rocks in the snow! I can't believe what good traction it has!
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I am struggling with it, and need to get it done - by myself, as I can't afford a service job. I am handy, and comfortable doing it, But I am confused about how to get into the blower housing.
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I have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
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Front Blower Motor does not work. 2005 Honda Odyssey, EX-L130,000 miles and I expect at least 170,000 miles more.
History – Over the past four years, the front blower motor has operated intermittently. I noticed that when the weather went through large changes (warm/humid to cold/dry or vice versa), the fbm would not run. The system behaved in the manner described by Honda owners in many of the forums online. After a period of time passed, the blower would function properly again until the next weather change.
About two months ago, the blower stopped working again and it has not returned to form since. The system again displays all the usual symptoms reported on-line. The rear blower works fine.
The controls on the dash seem to be fine (display changes appropriately as I select settings, vents open and close for heat or A/C or which vents I want open). Air flows through the vents selected when I am driving – I have a passive windshield defroster!
Here are the steps that I have taken during the past week:
1.Bought a new transistor/resistor module, OEM Honda Part #79330-SDG-W41 (I checked with a local dealer for the correct part number). I installed it but there is no change in the system.
2.I found information on-line to test the T/R. I checked the old one – Thermal Cut Out is intact and the resistance between posts 3 & 4 (lower pair when installed) is 1,500 ohms. I checked the new transistor and it read out the same.
3.Fuses, relays, power to the blower, blower, ground beyond the transistor are all fine.
4.I reconnected the T/R and fbm and let the fbm lay on the car floor. I started the car with the fan on. Each time I start the car (or turned the ignition ‘On’) the fbm tries to run, but stops in an instant.
The Rat is cornered – it's in the the T/R and the control signal from the control panel to the T/R corner. If I bypass these elements, the fbm goes on and off as I select the fan On/Off from the control panel.
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ok I have a 07 civic which I bought used, It of course has the indicator which says when service etc is due, my main concern is the oil life indicator, I have had the car 8 months changed the oil when it was due, I put 6100 miles on it, is this ok? I had an 02 civic which i bought new and change the oil every 3 to 4 k, I know the experts say you can go longer now, I do mixed driving city.
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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Blower motor has stopped working on my 2008 jetta 2.0. Motor works fine and I have traced the issue back to the fan switch connector which is not getting power. Seems like it should be a fuse issue, but they all seem to check out fine. Not sure where else to look. Is there a relay upstream that could be bad? I have owned since new and it has never been apart.
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I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
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