Civic - Honda :: 2003 - AC Works But As Soon As Day Gets Hot It Starts Blowing Only Warm Air
Jul 5, 2014
If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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History: A few months back I had a leak repaired in my cooling system. I noticed the other night that my radiator was nearly empty again, so I've filled it back up, but haven't fixed it yet.
As summer is over, I no longer need my AC. However that caused me to notice that at its coolest setting, the vents are blowing warm air (maybe 15º warmer than outside) and that seems high to me.
My immediate thought is that the heater control valve may be leaking/damaged/corroded.
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I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?
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My sister unknowingly grabbed her Honda Odyssey car key and used it to start and drive her Honda Civic. She didn’t realize what she’d done until she had trouble taking the key out of the ignition after driving the Civic. Now we’re wondering about these car keys and security.
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If my car get really hot, it initially blows cold air (the way it should be) for 5-10 minutes, but then it slowly starts blowing warm air until I get the full heater going for about a minute, and then it goes back to cold air, sometimes after 45 minutes the cycle repeats. This does not happen every time, this year I had it happen about 5 times.
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I have kind of a strange problem with my 1992 Honda Civic. When I have my car in park with the headlights on my left brake light doesn't light up but my right does. When I put the car in gear or parked with the headlights off, the right brake light no longer lights up but the left does. What I should do? Hopefully there's a cheap fix because my car's not worth a whole lot.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
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'96 civic 180k miles. Just had timing belt replaced but has been clicking when cold so mechanic checked & adjusted valves. Still clicks on startup until warm, less than 5 minutes, as it has for the last year or more. What could be the problem?
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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Right after I filled the gas tank, the car will start for a few seconds and shortly die afterwards. Could it possibly be the purge control solenoid? Right now I'm completely lost...
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1992 Honda Civic Starts fine but kills as soon as you release the key. Hold the key in the position with the starter motor running and it keeps running. In the old days we would replace the resistor on the firewall. Today?
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Two years ago, I purchased a 1998 Honda Accord LX from a local dealer. I've had very few issues with it. However, shortly after I moved from Michigan to Florida, I began to notice a strange issue with my car. While the car is running and the engine is idling, I lose AC inside the car and the engine heat slowly begins to build.
The AC isn't shutting off, but instead blowing out warm air. The engine heat builds at a concerning enough rate, moving from a normal level to almost maxing out the gauge in the span of 20-30 minutes. This issue seems to auto-correct itself while the car is in motion, with the AC putting out nice, cool air and the engine heat staying at a normal level.
The car currently has about 269,000 Miles on it. I have been told the problem is likely a faulty thermostat, but I'd like a second opinion. What might be wrong with my car?
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I have a Honda civic 2011. Sometimes my middle two ac vents is not blowing out any air at all ( but the sides somehow works very little ). The reason why I said sometimes is because it stopped working for a day then it would work again the following day. I don't know what's wrong with it. I called for an estimate and the guy tells me if he has to open up the dashboard to open up the vents it would cost in upwards of 800.
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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Our car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
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I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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My son's Honda Civic keeps periodically blowing the #4 fuse under the dash (alternator). He replaced the VSS and had the alternator tested but it still happens.
At one point the fuse would blow as soon as you turned the key to ignition but I traced that down to a shorted wiper motor which I replaced and that solved the immediate fuse blowing. BTW according to all documentation I have, the wiper motor is not supposed to be on fuse #4 so perhaps the under dash fuse box has issues.
Looking for a schematic for the under dash fuse box? I have the 01-02 service manual which has wiring diagrams that reference specific fuses but I can't found one for the box itself. Are there relays in that box or is it just wiring from fuse slots to the many connectors?
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