Civic - Honda :: 2002 - Rusty Oil Pan And Pipe Replacement
Jun 9, 2011
I had the oil changed on my 2002 Civic at the Honda garage. They said the pan was badly rusted out and beginning to leak and that the pipe (exhaust pipe?) would also fall apart from rust when they went to change the oil pan. They said it was unsafe to drive in the meantime because the pan is so soft. If the pan springs a leak, I can just pull over and get a tow, right? I hadn't even noticed the leakage, it's minor. I'll take it to an independent garage for an estimate, but what should I be expecting for something like this?And can I safely drive it around town in the meantime?
View 19 Replies
Advertisement
I noticed liquid leaking from the area between the B exhaust pipe and the muffler. The B exhaust pipe is simply the long exhaust pipe that attaches to the A pipe, or center exhaust pipe near the front. I think the leak is water. It's a slow leak/drip that appears to be coming from the gasket. I have a 1.6L 1998 Honda Civic DX.
View 6 Replies
I have a '02 Jetta Wagon with 180k miles. The plastic coolant pipe on the side of the head had been weeping (as they do) and I decided to replace it last night. The pipe replacement went smoothly and uneventful. When I removed the pipe as usual a normal amount of coolant spilled from the head down onto the trans area. After the replacement, I hosed down the top of the tranny with the garden house. I then took the car out for a drive.
First thing I noticed that my CEL was off (it had been on for a small emissions leak) and that seemed odd. Then about quarter mile down the road I noticed she was not shifting. It would hit maybe 30 at 3000 rpm and just stay there. So I pulled over and turned her off and looked under the hood...all seemed well. Started it back up and the CEL comes on right away. I drive and still stuck in gear.
I get home and run a cheap CEL check and get 00281 and 00652. Which seems to be fault codes for the VSS G68 sensor. So I check my connectors, take apart and make sure they are clean and dry...all seems good. I clear the codes and start it up and codes are right back again and stuck in gear.
It is late so lat thing I do is check the resistance of the G68 and get pins 1-2 800ohm, pins 1-3 800ohm, pins 2-3 1600ohm. I also check pins on G38 and get 1000ohm there.
View 2 Replies
Just had engine replaced by dealership due to oil plug coming out on highway and subsequent engine damage (their fault).As soon I picked it up, felt left to right vibration going from front to back during acceleration.Took it back to dealership. They balanced/rotated tires and checked alignment (they said within specs). Still feeling vibration and so did technician who rode with me.The service advisor pulls me over and said that per the "Honda Master Mechanic" they spoke to via phone, vibration is being caused by engine timing not being correct because, being it it had to be reset, the computer needs 500 miles to set it correctly. Does this sound like bull to you to? I'm thinking damaged strut when they dropped front end to install engine or motor mount.
View 3 Replies
My 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
View 5 Replies
I have a 1997 Honda Civic that I was given by an elderly neighbor's daughter after the elderly lady went to the grocery and ended up 100 miles away when she could not figure out how to get home. The car was smogged at the beginning of the year but when I got it ran very rough and the temp went nearly to overheating on the drive home when I was stuck in stop and go traffic.I found the radiator fluid level low and an oily residue inside the radiator water bottle. I took it to a mechanic to check it out and was told it had a blown head gasket and maybe worse.
I am thinking of buying a rebuilt cylinder head and replacing it myself but I am not sure how to diagnose if any other damage could have been caused to the engine. It's hard to know but I am guessing that the engine was damaged during the 100 mile road trip due to low coolant level. It turns out short term memory loss was the diagnosis for my elderly neighbor. I filled the coolant level and ran the engine for a bit and the temp stayed normal but the rough running remains. The oil dip stick shows no signs of coolant in the oil and the coolant looks bright green when I looked in the radiator after topping it up with some water.
Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
View 18 Replies
My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
View 19 Replies
How much should it cost to have it replaced? car seems to be running just fine but leaking oil.
View 6 Replies
I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
View 10 Replies
Ive had both the piston rings and head gasket replaced on my 96 civic. This isn't for high end upgrades or anything just because i need to pass smog and both needed replaced. I am being told that once i get my car i should drive slow for 100 miles before i take it to smog. Ive read many different opinions on seating the rings but all are for people upgrading their car. I am sure I just got normal replacements.
View 19 Replies
I just bought a 95 honda civic si vtec automatic. I've had it almost two weeks I haven't had any problems with it until the other night my dashboard lights went out, I looked at the fuse it was bad so I replaced it but then I turned the car on and I can't shift out of park. Yes brake lights work and all the other fuses are just fine. I also have my gear shifter lights out and my stereo is suppose to turn on when I start the car but will no longer turn on at all. People say it's fuses, my transmissions locked....
View 7 Replies
Our 03 Civic recently went into the shop for a rotor replacement and the shop did an oil change for us while they were at it. My wife got the car back and she immediately noticed that the "AC" wasn't working. After asking a few additional questions (I'm not in the same city this week), it isn't the AC that isn't working, the fan/blower isn't turning on at all. We had the same shop check it out again and their response was that they weren't anywhere near the blower motor so this just has to be a coincidence. I could accept that but I'm still worried about a scam.
The car was in the shop just to have the rotors put on, not an oil change but they did an oil change for us anyway. (I was going to change the rotors myself but I couldn't get the caliper hangers off and it was 100+ degrees outside so I decided to have the shop mess with it), Would it be easy to sabotage the blower motor on this car?
View 6 Replies
My daughter's 2002 Honda Civic is overheating unless you drive over 60 mph. The heater is also not working - it blows air but the air is cold. It is full of coolant - we checked. The thermostat was replaced about 2 months ago.
View 4 Replies
I have been driving my 2002 Honda Civic for about 6 years now. For the past 4 years its been all highway, driving 50+miles a day. I have just moved to a small town where its all town driving.
When I would get off the highway before, I would notice a burning type smell, but no smoke and no signs of overheating. Once I moved here where the winter has been significantly colder than what my car is used to, and I am doing all in town driving, I have noticed smoke coming from my engine, but my temperature gauge shows all is well. I have always done regular oil changes etc on the car. I will be making a long trip this summer back home and i am not sure if I should be worried about the car overheating. Should I try and find someone to investigate this problem further or is this just some engine gunk burning as the car gets hot?
View 3 Replies
269k on a 04 6.0, in the rust belt, oil pan is needing replaced according to the tech. It looks rusty for sure. 1300+ to change it. I understand you have to lift the engine some to replace. Engine is stock, are there any aftermarket pan's worth looking at if I'm going to replace it?
View 7 Replies
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
View 2 Replies
I have a terrible car. Honda Civic 2002 that runs alright but quakes and shudders after I start it. It also revs up for no reason at all whilst I drive around. Anyway two machanics have told me I have a headgasket leak that will cost a lot of money to fix. Two others have told me I don't or that it is so minor it needs not be messed with. The last one I saw decided I had a bad Coolant Sensor for the Computer.
I guess there is one for the computer and one, um, not for the computer. I bought both sensors and he changed them Friday. Today I took the car out and three times while I was out, my temp gauge shot up into the red hovered for a few minutes and sank back down. It has never done this before. Why this might be happening now? I am really sick of taking my car in and getting a thousand different stories, paying to fix things that are not wrong with it and watching it die a slow death.
View 6 Replies
I have a manual transmission 2002 Honda Civic. Recently when the nights started getting cooler 20's and 30's, my car will not start. The starter will not grind or even click like it's trying to start. All the other electronic devices seem to operate normally, dome lights, head lights, dash lights, radio. Replaced the battery thinking it was the problem. No difference. If I turn the headlights on for a few seconds, the car starts fine. If the temperature is in the 40's the car starts without any problems. The car can sit for days without activities, as long as the temperature seems to be above about 40 degrees there is no problem. As soon as the temperature goes down, the car doesn't want to start again. I was thinking it may be the alternator not recharging the battery enough to give me my cold cranking amps, but before I dig into that mess, Are there places I can take my alternator to and have it tested to see if it is the problem?
View 8 Replies
02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
View 19 Replies
We have a 2002 Honda Civic EX. Recently we have heard this rattling coming from the engine. It is the same rattling no matter what speed we are at or gear we are in. When we turn the air conditioning ON the rattling stops. What do you suppose the issue is?
View 5 Replies
I have an 02 Civic EX. Engine light has been on for over a year, runs just fine. Reading misfires on 3 cyl, and cat code. I have since: changed all plugs and coils, changed both front and rear o2 sensors....switched coils around to see if code misfires changed (yes).
I see this is a common problem but no one has a solution..? I'd rather NOT change the cat converter and pay for that only to find out the light stays on. Need to smog so I can sell!
View 7 Replies
