Civic - Honda :: 2002 LX Automatic Starts But Won't Stay Running
Apr 8, 2015
I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
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1992 Honda Civic Starts fine but kills as soon as you release the key. Hold the key in the position with the starter motor running and it keeps running. In the old days we would replace the resistor on the firewall. Today?
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The car; 1991 Honda Civic Hatch back. Issue; Car starts but when left to idle quickly dies. Background; I just recently replaced the valve cover gasket as well as a pierced hose that was leaking coolant. Since then (ABOUT 3 DAYS) the car has taken much longer to start up; i.e. when you turn the key it tries to start from anywhere between 2-8 sec. Before doing work it started up easily and regularly. Has been driving fine for past three days otherwise. What should I trouble shoot first? I figure I would check the spark plugs when I get home and make sure they are still seated properly. Besides that, I'm not sure where to start.
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I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic EX with about 105,000 glorious miles on it. I decided to hit the road and made a weekend road trip to pick up a stranded family member. I live in Ohio and drove Lou Dobbs, my car, to Florida. It was about 950 miles one way. All was well until I got to Florida. I hit my first traffic jam and was sitting with the windows down enjoying the Florida air. Suddenly, the temperature gauge started to climb! It got pretty close to the red but traffic began to flow at that point. As soon as I reached 40-50MPH the temp began to fall again. I picked up my cargo and headed back. Each time I would hit traffic or a red light the temp would climb without hesitation. This is without the A/C running. After I got back to Ohio, i asked a friend who knows about cars. Over the phone, he had me remove the radiator cap and reservoir cap to take a look at the fluid levels. After this though, the car has never overheated! I don't understand. Can air get into the system and I let it out by removing the caps? I can sit in rush hour traffic for a half an hour with the AC running and the needle stays right in the middle. Should I still take it in to be looked at?
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We have a 2003 Honda Civic EX with a manual transmission (5spd). Two of my daughters are close to getting their drivers license, however, they don't drive stick and are hesitant to learn how. My wife is asking me how difficult or expensive it would be to have an automatic transmission placed in the car so they can use it. The car is in excellent shape. It only has 67,000 miles. Is this feasible? Why or why not? If it is feasible who could do it?
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So our battery died and after getting it jumped the Jeep would not stay running. As long as I was giving it gas it would stay running. As soon as I stopped giving it gas it would die.
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i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?
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I have a 89 Mercedes 190e. The car stays running and will drive but after so long starts acting like it's starving for fuel. I have spark and nothing wrong with fuel filter but when tested there was no pressure what's odd is the fuel pump was tested and it works fine all the lines have been cleared I'm stumped what else can I check...
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When its cold outside it starts and runs good for about a second and then shuts off or runs really rough and then takes off. I tried turning it off and starting it about 4 times. After the fourth time I gave it a little gas and it started after that. If the block heater is plugged in it starts fine. And starts great the rest of the day after the initial start. It is not that cold here, lower 20's in the morning. Where to start with this problem?
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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I have my car and it takes a few times to start but once its on it wont stay running if i let go of the key or the ignition cylinder ....
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I just bought a 1982 Chevy c10 305 small block.It had an oil leak so i began putting new valve cover gaskets, and then New Valve Covers(Edelbrock). Because the covers were taller, I had to remove the EGR valve and bend a new fuel line.There was a plate i installed inside the valve cover where the PVC goes into? is this a problem?I noticed the hose from the distributor rotor button(vacuum?) was not connected to anything.I plan on putting a EGR blocker plate, but was told it wasn't needed to run.
So now it starts up but will not stay running idle. Do i need an EGR blocker to run?IS that plate needed inside the Valve Cover?Does the hose from the Distributor rotor need to be connected?
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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My CR-V stalled out the other day 3 times. Then would not stay running. Now won't run at all. We have changed the Camshaft position sensors, spark plugs and air flow control valve. It has fuel pressure, spark, compression tests good and timing chains good. Running out of things to check.
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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Right after I filled the gas tank, the car will start for a few seconds and shortly die afterwards. Could it possibly be the purge control solenoid? Right now I'm completely lost...
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Problem: About 10 minutes after driving, the heat starts to blow out of the upper vents when the a/c is on automatic. The heat comes out even if the outdoor temperature is mild (55 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and the cabin temperature is warm, which heats up the SUV quickly making it very uncomfortable. Turning the a/c off tends to somewhat solve the problem some of the time, however, occasionally hot air creeps through the vents even with the a/c off. The a/c often makes a gurgling sound whether it is on or off. I noticed today (2/3/12) that the back vents are not affected by the problem, so the very warm air is only coming from the front upper vents.
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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1995 Honda Civic appears battery is dead, takes 20 turns to start up, then has trouble with RPM's while driving. Even the clock and radio reset I thought the battery was so dead, but the car still starts up every time. And sometimes when I accelerate it has trouble keeping up and chokes a bit. Is this one problem or two? It seems electrical to me.
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