Civic - Honda :: 2002 - Heater Gets Cold When Stopped At Red Traffic Light
Feb 24, 2011
My wife drives a 2002 civic (mostly around town). when the car is at running temp.with the heater on and she gets top a stop sign or red traffic light, the heater starts to blow out cold/colder air. We took the car to a dealer and asked them to flush/fill the radiator and fix the problem. Well they flushed/filled the radiator and said "Yup, it still does it. Would you like us to diagnose the problem more for a minimum of 1 hour labor cost?" What could be the problem with the reduction in heat?
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 275,000 miles on it. After driving for an hour or so, it starts getting hot when stopped or nearly stopped. It goes back to normal temperature when I start driving. It does cool down if I turn on the heater. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and put it a new radiator and changed the thermostat hoping it would solve the problem, but it hasn't. I checked and the fan does come on when stopped. Could it be a cooling system clog that a flush might be able to solve or might it be the head gasket?
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I'm convinced my 02 honda civic does not like traffic nor hot weather. Whenever i'm in traffic for more than 20 minutes (which is about everyday) it starts to make this loud buzzing noise. Seems to be the way my car is telling me that it does not want to be in traffic. I can sure relate. Me neither. When the weather gets hot, my car does the same thing. Can you relate to my car as well?
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1991 Honda Civic, automatic transmission, the car/steering wheel shake badly when the car stops at the red light. It only happens when brake pedal is pressed AND in D gear. If shift from D to N, the shake disappears. As soon as the traffic light turns green and the car starts to accelerate, the shake disappears. Four spark plugs were replaced, no effect at all.
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We bought our 2002 Honda Civic new and have maintained it exactly as specified. Intermittently when we turn on the AC/heater we get a horrid smell, sometimes like dirty socks, sometimes like vomit, sometimes like damp basement. We recently had the cabin air filter changed. It doesn't happen every time we turn the AC/heater on, but enough that it can be very irritating!
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I have a manual transmission 2002 Honda Civic. Recently when the nights started getting cooler 20's and 30's, my car will not start. The starter will not grind or even click like it's trying to start. All the other electronic devices seem to operate normally, dome lights, head lights, dash lights, radio. Replaced the battery thinking it was the problem. No difference. If I turn the headlights on for a few seconds, the car starts fine. If the temperature is in the 40's the car starts without any problems. The car can sit for days without activities, as long as the temperature seems to be above about 40 degrees there is no problem. As soon as the temperature goes down, the car doesn't want to start again. I was thinking it may be the alternator not recharging the battery enough to give me my cold cranking amps, but before I dig into that mess, Are there places I can take my alternator to and have it tested to see if it is the problem?
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My 2002 Honda Civic (160k+ miles, manual transmission) has twice failed to start this winter. This happened when the temperature is cold (<32 Deg. F). The car came with me from CA to the East coast (mid Atlantic) about 5 years ago. It occasionally has been difficult to start it in cold weather since moving East but otherwise it starts first attempt without issues.
This morning it barely started. This evening, it didn't start using the ignition. Turning the key, the engine attempted to turn over once perhaps twice. After several attempts the engine did not turn over at all - no detectable sound from the starter motor, instrument lights will flash and clicking noises come from the dash. Attempting to jump the battery with another vehicle had no effect - the engine would not turn over at all, the instrument lights flash, clicking from the dash. The battery health indicator is green.
I did get the car started by coasting down a grade, putting the car in gear to turn the engine over, and then using the ignition (I must depress the clutch to use the ignition but getting the engine turning worked first attempt without issue).
After arriving home and shutting off the engine, the car will start on the first attempt without issue (even after letting it sit at 25 Deg. F for 3+ hours). This seems like a mechanical issue and the starter motor is an obvious place to start. I can double check the battery connections and do some basic electrical testing, how to verify the electrical grounding (I'm handy with a multi meter).
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I have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
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I have a 2003 Civic EX with 160K miles. The car runs great but it will sometimes over heat in traffic. It does not always overheat so it so the two mechanics I have taken it too have been unable to duplicate. I have had he thermostat changed and the relay to the cooling fan. I also changed the radiator cap. Other facts.
The heater has been very slow to heat up even when letting the car run for 15 minutes in the winter. It will heat up only once on the highway. This started at about the same time as the overheating.
It has never overheated on the highway even with 100 degree weather and the AC blasting.
Turning on the air will most of the time lower the temp.
Today after traveling 30 minutes I came to a stop and it overheated(temp gage on H). I tried to turn on the heater to attempt to cool it down and it blew cold air for about 3 minutes and never warmed. I then pulled into a lot andneither cooling fan was running. I did not have the ac on as I am thinking the fact that the heater is so slow might be a clue to the problem.
It would appear it could be something with the cooling fan but neither mechanic thought it was that as they couldn't duplicate the problem.
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I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
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This has been happening intermittently for a little over a year now. When sitting in traffic, my car begins to overheat. I've had two different mechanics look at it - the first swapped out the radiator cap.
The second said my coolant levels were low, but he pressure tested the system and found no leaks. He recommended I check my levels before taking long trips - so this weekend, before driving 380 miles to Phoenix, I checked my levels. They were a bit low, so I topped everything off with coolant and everything was fine on the drive out.
On the drive home, however, stuck in traffic, the car began to overheat. I pulled over and checked the reservoir and it was mostly full of coolant, but I added a little more, let it sit for a while, and then made my way through the traffic and home.
Also, I tested the fan, and it comes on.
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My 1996 honda civic cannot handle the heat. Every time the weather gets warm it freaks out when stuck in traffic for any extended period of time. It generally will start to rev while stopped, sometimes will jerk forward, and once continued to rev in park with my foot completely off the gas, checking the gas and the break pedals numerous times to make sure not stuck, etc., for about 2 minutes. Another time it locked the steering wheel and would not release. This really only happens when it's warm outside. The car does not have air conditioning, if that makes any difference. We've brought it to two mechanics and they both said car looks great. What could be going on?
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I drive a 2004 Honda Civic. About a month ago, my car started to overheat. The next day, I took it into the shop,and they said the thermostat was sticking,and I had a small leak in the radiator. I got a new thermostat, radiator (they did not have anyone to repair), and flushed the system.
A few days later, the car started to overheat again, and quickly went down. We thought it was a fluke. A few days later, it did the same thing and we took it back to the shop. They said nothing was wrong and let the car run with the radiator cap off for a while in case there was a bubble. Since then, it has has started to overheat a few more times. So the, problem is not all the time, just every so often. Several parts have already been replaced, as noted.
What we have found in common is that each time it starts to overheat, we are in stop and go traffic. It has always been hot outside too (but it is summer). When we begin to move at a regular pace, the car temp goes down. I live in a city, so it is impossible not to get in stop and go traffic on a regular basis. Not everytime we are in stop and go traffic it does this, but since the repairs, it has never overheated while moving at a regular pace.
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Can this make sense, or is this just some weird coincidence?
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The heater in my car only blows hot air when I'm driving fast. At stop signs it blows cold. You can imagine how this affects my driving strategy. What the problem might be?
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Why my Camry is stalling. Here is the situation: yesterday I had my battery disconnected for several hours while removing the seats from my vehicle so I could clean the carpet. When I put everything back together and reconnected the battery the car started up and ran without any problem. I then went out to run some errands and the car stalled while stopped at a stop sign. I put the car in park and it started right back up. Any time I come to a stop the engine idles to slowly.
I had this same issue a couple of years ago and a technician at my Toyota dealership said there was a sensor that needed to "learn" my driving habits (like how fast or slow to idle). The guy was correct and after a few days of dealing with stalling at red lights I have had no issues.
So I would like to know what this sensor is called and if this whole thing sounds right. To me it seems like a problem that the vehicle would want to stall. I could see myself getting rear ended by someone assuming I am going to make a turn when I am stalled.
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Truck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
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My 2007 Honda Civic LX car horn suddenly stopped working after I had just used the horn a few minutes earlier. It does not work from the steering wheel and it does not work from the remote when I lock the car. The fuse seems to be OK (the horn seems to be on the same circuit as the brake lights and those are working).
I believe I can hear the relay under the dashboard clicking when I try to use the horn so I suspect that the horns are actually broken. But I was wondering how many horns the 2007 Honda Civic LX has? I have been told different things by different car mechanic/dealers. One said that it has only 1 horn and the other says it has two (one "high" and one "low"). What is correct?
If it has two horns I would be less inclined to think that both horns stopped working at the exact same time so it might just be a bad wiring or something What is reasonable to pay for repairing the horn at a mechanic?
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I'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
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Was in town stopped at a traffic light when my 2003 Santa Fe just shut off. No warning, started right back up again, no CEL, no DTCs. Scary. I'm happy it happened with me driving the car instead of my daughter driving. Also happy it didn't happen on the highway.
I've had hard starting issues for a while now. Replaced crank sensor, it's fine for a few starts, then goes back to hard starting, but I hadn't had a problem in a few weeks.
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So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
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