Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Hesitates While Driving?
Jun 29, 2014
My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 that has some acceleration hesitation and general jerkiness, usually noticeable when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). The symptoms seem to dissipate after 5 - 10 minutes of driving.
When I begin accelerating, the car feels like it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. If I let off the gas a bit, then the car jerks a bit.
I'm sure it's not the transmission, because the dealer said the fluid and everything looks fine. Additionally, I have another Accord (2000) that does have a failing transmission and the symptoms on that one are very different from this 2003.
A couple of months ago, I was getting a CEL and had a friend of mine read the code with his OBD tool. It indicated that Bank 1 Sensor 1 was bad. I replaced it with a Denso. I think the problem got better at that point, but has "worsened" again over the past month or so.
Any clues what this might be? Things I can try? Ways to narrow down the issue?
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car stalls out while driving, seems like the whole system shuts down lights stay on. Put diagnostics on it.Took to garage, couldn't find the problem. New plugs, checked distributer, all ok.
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About a week ago I was driving my 1995 Honda Civic, which normally runs GREAT, and in an instant and with no warning the check engine light came on, it suddenly lost power no matter how much gas I gave it, and it died going down the road. In the middle of the road I tried to crank it and it wouldn't crank. Very quickly the battery died and I wound up towing it to a service station. I thought, its got to be the alternator, right? But the mechanic said it was my battery not the alternator, so I replaced it, paying $145 for a battery change and a "diagnostics" test I probably could have done in the Autozong parking lot.. 'cept I'm a girl and I don't like to do those kinds of things. Anyway, battery in, all fixed I thought.
I drove it a week and made a 150 mile trip and in the last ten miles going down the highway at 70MPH, same thing. All of the sudden with no warning engine light comes on, it looses power no matter how much gas I gave it, I pull over and I'm stranded. I thought maybe it was the alternator after all, so I turned the lights and radio and wipers off (night and raining) and tried to crank it. It cranked up slowly after flooring it a few times, which really didn't seem to do that much like it would if it was flooded. Anyway, the car cranks, I drive a little further and again.. same thing. I pull over as I'm dying, repeat. Again, pull over, repeat. I tried several times to crank the car by popping the clutch like if the battery died, but that wouldn't crank it. I literally had to turn off the ignition switch, turn it back on and crank the car, then it would run another mile or so. After the fifth time pulling off the road I decided to put it in neutral, turn off the switch, turn it back on and crank it without even stopping and it worked until it shut off again with the same pattern as the first time. I finally made it home and got it to a service station today. I did notice that if I drove under 40MPH it would make it a short distance, but it did almost shut off twice while going to the service station.
I haven't heard back from them yet, I'm just wondering how scared I should be before I call them and i would like to have some knowledge since they told me once after diagnostics that it was the battery.
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I have a manual 2000 Honda civic that is acting up. When I drive it after about 15mins it gets really hot. Then right before I pull over it starts to cool off if I have the heat pumping . It also seem to over heat when ever I am sitting idle . I replaced the radiator and thermostat but I'm still having the problem.
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The heater in my car only blows hot air when I'm driving fast. At stop signs it blows cold. You can imagine how this affects my driving strategy. What the problem might be?
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I drive a 2002 Honda Civic. I was driving home from work one day, traveling about 40mph when the car shuddered, the check engine light came on, and I decelerated to 20mph or so. It then wouldn't go any faster than 20-25mph without more shuddering and revving up past 5000rpm. I am able to drive the last 1-2 miles home at low speed without problems. I am able to drive the 15-20 miles to work in the mornings without issue, even on the highway at 70mph. It has been hot in the afternoons (95-100+) and I wonder if the heat has something to do with it. Also, I have an in-dash DVD unit and the screen turns dim/an odd tint from time to time. It doesn't seem to coincide with the other problems. A repair shop said they think it might be a grounding issue.
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I took my car to a nearby repair shop. They replaced the rear brake pads and resurfaced the rear rotors. When I left, I felt and heard clunking while driving. Initially I thought it was just stuff rolling around in the trunk. As I drove on, I realized it must be something the shop did. It sounded like metal scraping metal every time the tire rotated and started making terrible sounds when I hit the brakes. I stopped to take a look. It looked like the rotor or something behind it had ripped. What happened here? It's a 2006 Honda Civic EX. Picture hopefully attached.
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I have a 2000 Honda civic ex. A couple months ago while driving I heard a squeal and my AC was blowing hot. I just changed out my expansion valve, drier and compressor but when I hooked up my gauge my low side wouldn't build pressure and my high sat like 150. Finally the low side got to 20 and high about 200. I over filled trying to get low side right and when I did get it to 40-50 my high side would be 300 but it wouldn't hold. I emptied the system but 150 psi is somewhere in the high side and won't get out.
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Why a 2012 Honda Civic might catch on fire? I have had it since October 2012, and it had a little over 4,000 miles on it. Yesterday I was driving it for 15 minutes, and it began smoking, and something was on fire under the hood. It is NOT one of the ones that was recalled for the faulty O-ring that caused oil leakage. I checked, and my car is not under recall for anything. Just out of nowhere it catches on fire while I am driving??? What is up with that???
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I own an old Civic and I noticed in the past several months that I get a burned oil odor in the passenger compartment, but only when I drive downhill. I more recently notice that if I accelerate while driving down the hill, a cloud of smoke trails out behind me then clears when I let off the gas. This car has 294,000 miles on the odo. (I know) and I DO have to add a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. It runs great though. Is my motor about ready to blow or what . . . ?
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2000 Honda Civic DX, green, four doors, 91,000 miles. A few weeks ago I noticed that the steering wheel was loose when driving but only about 30% of the time--didn't seem to be related to whether the car was warmed up or time of day or speed, just that it happened when the car was moving. The steering wheel would have play when the wheels were pointed/driving straight and the looseness went away when turning. I brought it in to the mechanic and of course he couldn't get it to happen when he drove it. Replaced worn inner tie rods, did a power steering flush/replaced the power steering fluid and did a front end alignment. Drove fine for two weeks but then it started occurring again, this time even more loose/more play in the steering, still only when driving straight. Oh, just one time (so far) a few days ago it was loose when I was standing still at a stop light.
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I have a 2011 Honda Civic EX-L sedan with 10,000miles on it. I've noticed that the brakes often make a squeaking noise when I am driving slowly and come to a stop at a stop sign. It seems to happen most often after a cold start (e.g. I notice it in the morning when I start my drive to work and otherwise when I have not been driving around in my car). I took it to the dealership today and they said everything was fine with the brakes; they are in great shape and starting to wear normally. They found nothing wrong and they did not hear the squeaking although I heard it this morning and last night.
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I brought my car to one of those "quick change" places to get the oil and transmission fluid changed (the CVT is notorious for needing regular transmission fluid changes). Less than 2 weeks later, after several hundred miles of driving, the car was barely drivable. I brought it back. When they checked on their computer, it turned out they had put in regular transmission fluid instead of CVT fluid. They flushed and refilled transmission a bunch of times. I was there, watching, so I know the work was done - and the car worked fine for about 2 weeks. Then it started to act up again. I brought it back again, and they flushed it twice more, but now it's acting up again after only 2 days.
By "acting up," I mean shifting out of or into park, reverse, or drive is really, really stiff, and the car "lurches" at certain points when driving, both at low speed and at highway speeds. It's worst in stop & go traffic - attempting to stall when we come to a stop. If you try to manually shift into "L," it doesn't go, or rather it will go into low most of the way, but not quite far enough for the little light that says it's actually in low to light up. If the last two instances since the wrong fluid change are any indication, it won't be long before it fails to go into "L" no matter how hard I pull on the shifter, which also means it's going to start stalling again when I come to a stop.
They've been really, really nice about all this, and I've wanted to try to save the transmission - if for no other reason than to prevent the kid who made the mistake from being fired in this awful economy. It's a big name company, and I have a feeling they're not going to be very understanding of an honest mistake up at "corporate HQ." At the same time, however, I need my car to work.
Is there something else to try that could save the transmission? I know it can't be taken apart and rebuilt, because on this model car, the transmission core is completely sealed and is not serviceable. Or is it too far gone - should I ask for a new transmission?
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I've read from quite a few places online that other 2012 Honda Civic owners were having tires go flat, pop and shred while driving (Granted that this is probably the most common car issue that any one faces). The Honda is my wife's car and is less then a year old. I change her flat and checked the other tires ALL of which were dangerously low on air. Seems strange that so many of the same vehicles with low mileage are reporting having the same issues. (Firestone Affinity Tires)...
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My 1989 Honda Civic engine randomly dies usually while driving. When it dies I hear a relay click sound coming from the area of the glove box. The tachometer and speedometer go immidiately to 0. The dashboard indicator lights all go out. The turn signals windshield wipers and electric windows all quit working, but the emergency flashers, radio, and comfort system blower continue to work. I think the transmission goes immediately into neutral too because deceleration is much slower than it would be if the engine were running and I take my foot off the accelerator. So far I have always been able to restart the engine and continue driving, though it often takes many tries before it will successfully restart and keep running.
In an unsuccessful restart the engine will fire and start to rev up but die again as soon as I release the key from the Start position. Occasionally the engine will spontaneously restart while we are coasting to a stop. We took it on a long trip this summer and it would almost always work fine until we stopped for gas, food or restroom break. After the break it would die one to three times in the first 5 miles and then would work fine until the next break. My mechanic says the computer is not storing any failure codes and he is having a hard time troubleshooting it because the problem only randomly occurs. I'm wondering if the problem might be a flaky electrical connector somewhere.
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Just yesterday I was driving my 2012 Cvic down a hill and the battery and oil light came on. Not but 5 seconds later as I came to the bottom of the hill my brakes went out (the car didn't cut off) so I pulled up the parking brake and cut the car off.
I started to call for roadside assistance but before I did I thought to try to start her up again and boom! Everything works fine! What could have caused this?? Computer system in the car? Brake fluid? Also just two weeks earlier I had full minor service on her. Tire rotation, oil/filter change, brake fluid added etc.
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I have noticed in the past few weeks that my car ride has become very rough as I go over bumps in the road (which we have a lot of after this winter). It is quite loud and feels like I have lost "support" in the front end (I have limited car knowledge). Could this just be due to old tires (50k miles).
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Honda civic ex 2001 w/ 202k miles.... 1 month ago was driving on highway, the a/c started going, then I began losing power, temp went hot, pulled over steaming hood, wouldn't take much water.
Mechanic did: replace thermostat, therm gasket, new radiator fan temp switch, pressure test.
Ran fine for 2 weeks, then heat began to rise again & overheated. Each time it overheated the top small hose on radiator popped off(like a 1/2 in. hose). Back to mechanic: did pressure test, did a full cooling system test all were great...Only thing he found was a small radiator crack....thought it just took a week to lose coolant. Replaced radiator/ecu temp sending unit/refill and pressure test.
1 week later, temp spikes to hot, so I bring it back....he tested pressure/flow no leaks again...he can't figure it out.One note: for about the past 3months, right after starting, I would come to my first or second stop, then accelerate and hear a squeal that lasts like 5 seconds or so...this happened intermittently for about 3 months, and is still happening(I can drive very short distances now). A friend thought the issue was the belt that controlled the a/c and 2 other things
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I had my car towed to the shop today because when I put the gear in drive, the engine would gun like it was in neutral. It would go in reverse, but not in drive. I asked them to check the transmission fluid and it wasn't low. What it could be?
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