My 2001Honda Civic EX (manual) has only about 46,000 miles on the clock and runs very well. My mechanic says I should consider replacing the timing belt (the manual suggests after seven years). I plan on keeping the car for many more years -- should I replace the belt now? How devastating is it if the belt breaks while driving?
View 5 RepliesI was told that I must replace the timing belt every sixty thousand miles. Is this true?
View 24 RepliesI think I made a bad decision. Almost a year ago, I purchased my used Odyssey. I cannot remember if the timing belt had been changed. My check engine light came on, and the mechanic I took it to indicated it was the seal on the gas cap. He proceeded to tell me that I have an oil leak coming from the oil pump and that I should replace it and while I'm in there, I should replace the timing belt. There were a myriad of other things wrong with it, including broken engine mounts (which I can get fixed elsewhere from the man I purchased the car from) and some other things he said I can spread out and are basic maintenance, but I said to go forward with the oil pump and timing belt.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2006 Honda Odyssey. I got the timing belt replaced two weeks ago.Last week the engine started making a quiet clicking noise upon acceleration. The clicking noise happens intermittently not continuously. Then last night the yellow engine light came on. Questions: What does the yellow engine light mean? Is the engine light related to the timing belt work that was done? Would the clicking noise be connected to the timing belt work?
View 3 RepliesI recently replaced timing belt and balance belt on my 2004 santa fe 2.4l and now the engine runs like crap and shakes badly. I went over all timing marks again and again and I am at a loss.
View 9 RepliesI've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
View 2 RepliesSerpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2009 Elantra (automatic) that already has 52K miles on it. I drive a lot mostly at highway speeds. I know several people who recommend having the timing belt replaced BEFORE the warranty runs out at 60K miles.
The dealership has a 60K inspection where they "inspect" the timing belt (plus a whole lot of "fluff" checks, tire rotation etc) I'd rather just take it in and get it replaced. What should a timing belt replacement cost?
I have a 2005 Toyota camry solara with 66,000. Does the timing belt need to be done now due to age of the car?? Or wait alittle longer?
View 4 RepliesI have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
View 19 RepliesI purchased a 2005 Opel Corsa C 1.8l with around 70k miles. The car is in a fantastic shape, I've had it for around 6 months, having driven around 6k miles. The first maintenance I did was changing all oils and filters, and changing the accesory belt (the one that powers the alternator, that one is not dented). I was told back then at the workshop that the timing belt (not sure if that is the correct name for the belt with dents that syncs valves, etc.) was in a good shape. I don't know if the previous owner/s ever changed it. I understand that the damage done when that belt breaks could get pretty serious, with bent valves, mainly. The question is, should I change the belt now? How long do those last?
View 13 RepliesI am looking for a link or instructions on replacing the timing belt on a 2.8 30V. I attempted to search and mostly came up w/ the info relating to the turbo.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Passat 1.8T GLS (station wagon) has 72,000 miles. I checked the manual which says that timing belt is to be replaced at 105,000 miles.
However, car is 8 years old - does the age matter or I should be fine until I get to 105,000 miles to replace the timing belt, tensioner, water pump etc.
I got 123000 km on my car. Manual says 144000 km is the right mileage to replace the belt, but I have heard opinions that it should be done earlier.
View 7 RepliesDoes VW have an official recommendation for replacing the timing belt?
None of the publications I've seen list the timing belt interval. My car is very close to 95k miles.
Looking for the proper instructions in replacing timing belt and oil seal I have done this on a Honda accord before but I need to know how to properly align everything so I can do it right the first time.
View 2 RepliesI just finished replacing my timing belt, water pump and all belts. I made sure to double check the timing marks lined up via this pic:
Timing belt diagram
I put everything back together and no go. I am not sure what to do now. Should the crank sprocket pulley be in a special starting position? I see is has a "1" engraved on it.
How to change the timing belt and water pump on a 2006 2.0t passat?
View 3 RepliesThe timing belt broke in my gf's '08 accent recently and I decided to have a crack at replacing the belt after getting a quote for $900 from the nearest mechanic (with no guarantee it would fix the problem).
When re-aligning the cam and crank to TDC, I wasn't sure if it mattered which revolution the crank was on (ie. 1st or 2nd revolution) when putting everything back together. I tested rotating the engine with the new belt on slowly to make sure there was no contact and everything seemed ok.
So basically now everything is back together, tried starting it up and it won't start and now i'm wondering if it would make a difference or not if the crank was rotated 1 additional revolution. Otherwise there is more significant damage.
2007 Santa Fe GLS 2.7 V6. T belt replaced by dealer at 62K. Noticed engine vibration when picked up vehicle. RPM is steady, engine runs smooth, no error codes, no strange noises. Mechanic who did the work confirmed vibration problem and recommended bringing it back - had no answer on the cause but mentioned lose motor mounts which I doubt - the car ran perfect until the dealer did the work.
View 3 RepliesVehicle is an 08 Hyundai Accent 1.6L three door (hatchback) with 20,197 miles. This car was born on Oct. 16, 2007 and purchased in April of 2008. I told the owner to call the dealer and find out about when they should replace the timing belt as I had looked it up at the Gates site and found that it is an interference motor and also these Hyundai have some kind of lengthy warranty. When the tech or whoever she spoke to at the dealership asked about the mileage, they told her that she does not need to worry about the belt for about another five years, were rude and sounded inconvenienced by her calling. This leaves her with a bad taste in her mouth and more importantly, mis-informed.
I get the "Maintenance Log" out of the glove box and upon trying to decipher the timing belt interval, it states that the first course of action is an "inspection" at 30,000 miles or 24 months. How is a timing belt inspected? From what I have seen, a belt can look perfect today and snap tomorrow. But anyway, the next entry for severe service is replacement at 37,500 miles or 30 months which means this belt should have been replaced in October of 2010. Next entry is normal change at 60,000 miles or 48 months which puts us at April of 2012. After this it goes to 75,000 miles or 60 months.
I have already picked up the kit for changing the belt, tensioner, idler, and the two seals. How critical is it to change the spring as that was not included in the kit I got? I'm planning to do this job here in the next couple days as from what I can figure from the above log, It's way over due. I was reading some Hyundai forums and one stated that the 2011 model with the exact same engine calls for the first replacement due at 90,000 miles. How's this possible? Seems like these people (engineers) don't have all their stuff in one bag...