Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Rev Slow And High But Won't Idle / Pressure In Radiator Hose?
Jul 30, 2016
I have replaced a head gasket on my 2001 civic LX recently. I have drain the coolant and put it back on again. Now I have idle issues, the car starts fine with high RPM (because it is cold) about 5 min latter the RPM changes, it revs low and high (about 2000 rpm) when it should be idling normally. I have taken the radiator cap (before i start the engine) and run it a while with the cap off to purge any air pockets, no luck. Another thing I have realized that there is a pressure build up in the upper and lower radiator hoses when it is running with the radiator cap on. How to fix this problem?
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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Recently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
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I own a Honda Crv 2000. I took the car for an oil change at a local oil change shop. They overfilled the oil. I went to the city and came back, and next day the underside of the car was oily and leaky. The car was dripping oil. I immediately siphoned out 300ml of extra oil from the car. After that the leaking stopped and it does not leak/drip anymore. At the same time I saw coolant dripping from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator). I noticed when the fans come on it start dripping. But as of today the coolant dripping has stopped. I am thinking of changing the hose.
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My 1998 Honda Civic has oil in the radiator. And even stranger, the oil winds up in the overflow coolant reservoir. What is the most likely cause of this?
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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92 Honda Civic, it has been steaming under the hood when i drive it and it's going into the overflow tank. When I pull the cap off after it's cooled down and then refill it. I watch to see if it's flowing and it's not. My initial thought was maybe a bad water pump, however I spoke with someone today that said it could very well be the head gasket. I am tending to lean this way now as well, as there is fluid on the ground after I park it. I put down some cardboard so the next time I drive it, I can see where it's coming from... Before I spend any money I want to exhaust the basics. I know I can get a combustion leak test kit to ultimately determine it.
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata, stock except for being lowered and having a different muffler. Nothing really noteworthy about it. I did run over a big chunk of something a few years ago that cracked the plastic undertray under the nose of the car and dented the bottom row of the condenser, but the problem I'm having is more recent.
About a year ago the AC stopped working. I took it to one shop that found there was no refrigerant in the system. They refilled it, and a few hours later it stopped working again. I took it to another shop that detected a leak in one of the schrader valves (the low pressure I think). He replaced that, filled it, and it worked again for another few months.
Recently it stopped working again. I took it to the same guy that replaced the schrader valve and he found that the high pressure hose had failed. He replaced it and refilled the system. It worked for a few hours. Then when I was sitting at a drive thru, a massive cloud of refrigerant erupted from under the hood and the AC stopped working. Took it back to the guy and he found the high pressure hose had blown off. He put it back on, refilled it, and the same thing happened again. Sitting in traffic, the high pressure hose blew and all the refrigerant poured out.
I took it back to him again and he put the hose back on and refilled it again. We let the car idle for about 30 minutes with the AC on and it worked fine. During this he had the high pressure gauge hooked up and it read between 150 and 175 with the car idling (about 70 degrees F ambient temp). He didn't have the low side gauge hooked up. We did see that the fan is working and kicked up to the higher speed. He did say he checked the dryer and that it looked like the bag that held the desiccant was intact, but he didn't mention replacing the dryer in any of these visits.
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I have 2003 Civic, 125K. I am having an issue that the hose that connects radiator and coolant reservoir keeps disconnected at the top of radiator. I am sure this is due to pressure build up in radiator, and radiator cap functions. I also have seen lower level of coolant in my radiator but reservoir is full (of course the hose I mentioned above is connected!). I took my Civic to a shop and they bled radiator but didn't fix the problem. I am certain there is a blockage somewhere in between reservoir and radiator. Would flushing the cooling system fix the problem? I just want to give bit more specific information to my shop.
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I have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
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About a month ago, I smelled a very faint smell of radiator fluid inside the car while the air was on. This happened twice, once on the highway when RPM's were running fairly high/engine temp was slightly higher than usual, and once on sidestreets when I was driving at high RPM's/in lower gears than normal (manual transmission). When I stopped the car it cooled down to normal level immediately and smell went away. I added coolant to the reservoir.Then I noticed nothing for about a month, so I figured everything was OK.Last week, my engine was running hot (usually is at 50% on the temp gauge, it was at 75%, where 100% is red zone), driving at low speeds.
About 5 minutes before that, I had the heat on but noticed the air blowing in the car was not heated even though the engine was warmed up (I assume due to lack of radiator fluid flow through the engine). The car did not overheat, because I pulled over and added water, and later added some coolant. During that incident I did not notice any smell inside the car. At the end of the week, I noticed the car running slightly hot and checked the reservoir. It was low--most of the coolant I added had disappeared in just one week.
Usual things to check:-radiator and all hoses are new-no leaks under the car-no white exhaust/smoke or smell outside
Other things about my car: It is a 1997 Honda Civic. Has never had any major problems, and it's running smoothly, but it does burn oil. The first time I noticed the smell, it was just after I had driven on the highway with slightly low oil level (still on the dipstick, but slightly below the bottom dot. Not too far on the highway--about 20 minutes). Not sure if that could be related.
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2001 F250- V10... Lower radiator hose has coolant leaking - Right now I cannot tell if its the hose or the radiator itself (hoping not) - I tried to take the clamp off and it broke - Any tricks to removing the hose? its on there pretty tight.... I guess if I don't want to save the hose I can rip it off with a pair of pliers but before I do that wasn't sure.
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I have a 1989 Honda Accord DX with less than 120k miles. I have two problems.
1) the low pressure hose for the power steering has worn out and is leaking by the fittings (badly) and I can't find the parts to fix it. The high pressure hose was also leaking but we found and replaced that part, and
2) I accidentally topped off the power steering reservoir with brake fluid (this was after I already knew the leaks existed).
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic. I just drove the car to Texas this weekend, 1800+ miles. On the way home it started to overheat if I was going slow, 45MPH or less. I pulled over, shut it off for about 2 minutes, started it up, the guage read about normal. I drove for a little while and it worked fine. Awhile later it started doing it again. I turned off the A/c and let the engine build up temp. At about the normal reading, both the fans on the radiator started cycling (I think one is the A/c cooling fan, and the other is the radiator cooling fan). So, both fans are at least working. I checked the fuses, they all looked good, and the fan relay worked as well ( I switched it with the horn relay, and they both seemed to work the same). What should I check next? Does it sound like a thermostat issue, or a temp sensor, or the fan switch? And how could I troubleshoot this further?
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2001 12v vr6 here, found my leak, now I need to know what the heck this is! Is this even removable?! It's basically a plastic elbow that connects to the radiator on the driver side, I have a photo. I tried fixing this crack with some glue and tape (It was late and couldn't get any temperature friendly glue), as you can see in the picture, it's covered in electric tape, and the hot coolant burned right through it all.
Another problem I had is my fuse box, burning through my fan fuse, looks something like this, the fuse was burned, but after placing a new fuse (just for contact), the fan worked, so I'm guessing a new fuse box is where to start ?
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How to remove the "high pressure" power steering hose. I have drained the fluid, disconnected from the pump, and also from the rack. Removed the center clamp, and got it all "loose". However, I cannot seem to figure out how to "fish" the hose out. There is a long piece of metal tubing that connects into the rack, and it seems to be resting above some cross member that is not removable. Went to the library, and searched the AllData Online manuals. On the "How to replace the High Pressure Hose" page, it only showed a diagram of the power steering system, with no written description on how to remove the hose. I am not on a lift, but jacked up and supported and on my back under the car with the right wheel removed. I am stumped, and the new hose is due to arrive soon.
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Just had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
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The malfunction indicator lamp has been on in my '03 Honda Civic LX for some time now. The car shakes and has trouble accelerating, but not all the time. This usually occurs when the car is stopped, perhaps at a stoplight, in drive. The malfunction indicator lamp blinks when this happens. I brought it to have the codes read, and these came up; P0303 (this happened twice in one reading), P0420, and P0135.
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