Civic - Honda :: 2001 - PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Error Code
Oct 6, 2011
33k Civic 2001 "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code
My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining.
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My Civic 2001 LX (non vtec 1.7) 33k threw an error code today. It was, "PO335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit" error code. It was raining a lot today, and this is the first day that it did it. I have never had this problem before. When the error code came on the engine automatically lost power. I couldn't get the car over 3000 rpm. Then it stalled in an intersection. Now it won't start period. It only has 33k on the clock.
The timing belt was done about two months previous, but i haven't had one problem until today, when it was raining. So much for a reliable honda.
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My wife's 2003 Altima has been stalling. The MIL came on P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit. I did a little research and it seems that it is pretty common for that sensor to go bad, so I bought a new one. The problem is I can't get the wires off the old one. It is in such a ridiculous place. There is no line of sight anywhere. It has to be done completely by feel. Supposedly, I should be able to push the button until it clicks and then remove the connector. When I push the button, it definitely clicks - but it doesn't stay clicked. It clicks right back out before I can pull on the connector. How can I keep that button clicked in when I can't see anything and I can just barely get one hand down in there?
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
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02 Santa Fe 2.4L/ automatic/2 WD. I replaced the fuel filter (only) and have had a nightmare ever since. It takes multiple tries to start, running a little longer each time. When it will finally stay running, only the most delicate of throttle feathering will allow any RPM's to be built up. Any attempt to do otherwise will result is sputtering, bucking and other unhealthy behaviors until the throttle is closed. It also gives off the smell of running rich.
I borrowed a scan tool and got P0136 and P0141, which I expect since the O2 sensor wiring was cut in two by the heat shield shortly after my daughter bout the vehicle. It also is giving me the P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit code. I had replaced the CMPS and its connector a couple of month ago. I replaced the sensor again to no avail. I have checked the Orange/Black wire from the connector to the ECM and it reads 0 ohms. I get battery voltage at the connector on the Blue supply wire but only get 1.86 to 2.0V when I check the signal with the engine running.
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I got a 2004 Nissan Sentra and a p0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor) popped up on it after the car stalled out sitting in a parked position for 2 mins. The car also stalled out again 20 mins later while I was driving. When the car stalled out in park I had to wait 3 mins because it was just cranking over, when it stalled while driving it started 30 secs later with 1st turn of the key. This car has been having start up issues after the car been driven and sat for 40 mins but when the key is cycled 3 times it starts up fine. I also was going to eventually make a post of this, the car been making clicking or rattling noise at times, off and on mainly when the car been warmed up and at idle more noticeably heard , hear the noise better from inside the car, forgot what side of the engine where the noise is coming from. Also I did a search in the past about recalls on this car and there was a recall on the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR on the 2.5L engines, the car I have is a 1.8L. Stated on this link 3rd one down. [URL] ... . Does it sound like the Crankshaft Position Sensor needs to get replaced?
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After heavy rain yesterday my 2005 2.7 Santa fe wouldn't start today. Had it towed to nearby dealer. The crankshaft position sensor needs to be replaced. He claims its melted to the block and oil pan needs to be dropped to remove it.
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2002 My friend's 2.7L sante fe crankshaft position sensor went bad and I went to replace it. Removed bolt, it was stuck fast, tried to pry out and it broke off leaving the last 1/2 inch stuck in block. Tried drilling a hole in it and using a screw to get it out but no luck. Afraid to keep drilling that I might damage something behind it. How to get it out?
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I am having a problem with my 2003 Santa Fe I have taken it to have the check engine light codes read and I have a code for the crankshaft position sensor, random misfires, something with gear 2 and 3 (not sure what it was exactly) it makes a loud noise when in 1st and 2nd gear when I shift out of 2nd the noise gets less and less until its gone and then does not come back until the car sits for a little while and cools down. Its running rough and does not have any power when accelerating. I had the timing belt changed a few weeks ago and it started running funny shortly after. I don't think the guy that did the timing belt knew what he was doing because I had to have someone go behind him and tighten the pulley.
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I have a 2007 ES350 with 90k miles. Purchased in August. I had ignition coil go out and decided to change them all and the spark plugs. When changing cylinder 5's coil and plug, I tried to push the wiring harness out of the way to remove the coil. Result, I moved the wiring harness too far and disconnected the 3 wires (black, yellow and red) that were connected to the cam position sensor connector. (I should've just removed the sensor SMH) I disassembled the connector, got it down the internal pins, soldered the pins to the wires, placed the pins back in the connector and reassembled it with the wires in the order that they appeared to originally be.
Plugged it back in and put everything back in place. Started the car and code P0352 was cleared but replaced with code P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction. I'm thinking, either I put that pins back in the wrong order or one of the wires isn't properly soldered in. Either way, I ordered another connector and it should be here tomorrow. I need Either a wiring diagram or a picture of the camshaft position sensor closest to cylinder 5 connected with the wires in the proper order .
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I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
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The check engine light came on in my 1997 Honda Accord and the OEM diagnostic says it's PO501 which is a performance problem in CVT speed sensor circuit. My mechanic is on vacation. Is it safe to drive short distances until I can have it fixed?
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I have a 2004 MK4 Golf 2.0l that's been throwing a CPS error code. My brother was going to come down to visit for a weekend. He had done some diagnostic work and had me order a timing kit and a camshaft position sensor from ECS.
So, with my assembled parts, I brought the car in to a reputable shop. Anyway, the guy does the work and now the car is ready and saying that the CPS took nearly 4 hours more of work.
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2007 Lexus ES350 with 177k miles. Getting a P0368 (Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Bank 1) Error. I can't seem to find online where this sensor is located at.
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I'm getting a weird code on my engine it's p1298 which is electric load detector circuit high input and I'm also getting 3 misfire codes but the car runs great what can I do to fix these.
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My check engine light came on the other day, and I went to Autozone to have the code read. Of course, that indicated the camshaft position sensor was detecting a fault. I read through all the posts relating to the fault, headed up to my local Hyundai dealer, and picked up the oil flow control valve for about $50 plus tax. While I was there, I figured I might as well have them do an oil change, since it was way past due. No point in putting in a new part with dirty oil..right? They did the oil change, washed the car and I was ready to roll. My plan was to replace the part myself, but magically, the check engine light has not come back on since.
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2000 jetta vr6 manual 150k miles, i have trouble starting the engine so I thought i'd start by replacing the crankshaft sensor. I notice that its wet with oil when i pull it out, and wasn't sure if tits supposed to be dry. I may have a bad ECU in the end...
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I have a 97 Honda Civic Manual transmission and my Check Engine Light Came On. The error code is P0135 which shows up as needing a O2 sensor. My question is:
1. Do I need to replace it?
2. How long do I have to replace it?
3. Will driving with it as it hurt my car?
The weather is getting colder and I read that could be the cause. I really don't have much extra money but I don't want to kill the car. I have kept up on Oil Changes with MaxLife Full Synthetic, Radiator Flush, etc if that matters. I also went into Valoviline Instant Oil Change and they double checked all of the fluid levels and that was OK.
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My car doesn't start right now and a shop diagnosed it as an ecu, but I'm starting to think that is not the case. The tach doesn't move when I try to start it and pushing the gas doesn't change it, so I'm thinking it is the crankshaft position sensor. Unfortunately, down at school, I don't have access to a jack, so I was wondering if there is any way to get to the cpa without a jack? I'd rather not have it towed to another shop.
Also, my coil pack has a huge crack in it. Could that be causing my problem? And my sai has some really frayed wires and I'd rather not replace it if I don't have to because these repairs are really adding up, but could that be causing problems too? it's not causing gas mileage issues and I live in an emissions-free county, so simply not allowing me to pass emissions isn't a problem.
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Looking for a picture or description where this sensor is located? I assume very close to the crank pulley, but I'm hoping I will not need to remove the crank pulley to gain access to this sensor. I have a 2011 Sonata, 2.4L engine.
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My check engine light is on. I got the code pulled at Advance Auto Parts. It is P0107 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low Input. I wanted to test the MAP sensor to see if it is bad. I couldn't find anything online that was Santa Fe or even Hyundai specific as far as testing procedures go. I know you can test the power wire, the ground wire, and the signal wire, from what I could tell from other places I've looked. I got 5ish volts from the power wire and 12ish volts on the ground wire, which is what I understand they should be. I don't have a vacuum pump at the moment, but testing the signal wire with no vacuum I got about 0.02 volts. From what I've read online, it should be around 5 volts, but I wasn't sure if all MAP sensors work the same way. Whether I'm doing this correctly and whether they think the sensor is bad?
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