Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Overheats Occasionally - How To Fix It
Sep 29, 2012
Honda civic ex 2001 w/ 202k miles.... 1 month ago was driving on highway, the a/c started going, then I began losing power, temp went hot, pulled over steaming hood, wouldn't take much water.
Mechanic did: replace thermostat, therm gasket, new radiator fan temp switch, pressure test.
Ran fine for 2 weeks, then heat began to rise again & overheated. Each time it overheated the top small hose on radiator popped off(like a 1/2 in. hose). Back to mechanic: did pressure test, did a full cooling system test all were great...Only thing he found was a small radiator crack....thought it just took a week to lose coolant. Replaced radiator/ecu temp sending unit/refill and pressure test.
1 week later, temp spikes to hot, so I bring it back....he tested pressure/flow no leaks again...he can't figure it out.One note: for about the past 3months, right after starting, I would come to my first or second stop, then accelerate and hear a squeal that lasts like 5 seconds or so...this happened intermittently for about 3 months, and is still happening(I can drive very short distances now). A friend thought the issue was the belt that controlled the a/c and 2 other things
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I have a 2003 Civic EX with 160K miles. The car runs great but it will sometimes over heat in traffic. It does not always overheat so it so the two mechanics I have taken it too have been unable to duplicate. I have had he thermostat changed and the relay to the cooling fan. I also changed the radiator cap. Other facts.
The heater has been very slow to heat up even when letting the car run for 15 minutes in the winter. It will heat up only once on the highway. This started at about the same time as the overheating.
It has never overheated on the highway even with 100 degree weather and the AC blasting.
Turning on the air will most of the time lower the temp.
Today after traveling 30 minutes I came to a stop and it overheated(temp gage on H). I tried to turn on the heater to attempt to cool it down and it blew cold air for about 3 minutes and never warmed. I then pulled into a lot andneither cooling fan was running. I did not have the ac on as I am thinking the fact that the heater is so slow might be a clue to the problem.
It would appear it could be something with the cooling fan but neither mechanic thought it was that as they couldn't duplicate the problem.
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic with 275,000 miles on it. After driving for an hour or so, it starts getting hot when stopped or nearly stopped. It goes back to normal temperature when I start driving. It does cool down if I turn on the heater. I just changed the timing belt/water pump and put it a new radiator and changed the thermostat hoping it would solve the problem, but it hasn't. I checked and the fan does come on when stopped. Could it be a cooling system clog that a flush might be able to solve or might it be the head gasket?
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when it began overheating, and to be specific it is a 2003 Honda civic ex, automatic. I took it back to them after having to pay towing expenses. They said they didn't know it had issues (bull) they said it was due to a radiator, so they installed a new one. When I got it back it drove fine then it began exhibiting the same symptoms soon after. I decided since I loved the car I wouldn't even bother with the people I bought it from, big mistake and I should have just returned it...I didn't because I was sick of looking for a car and school was about to start. This began the routine of having to fill it with antifreeze every day before and after class, if I didn't it would most certainly overheat and then I'd have to blow hot air all day.
So I took it to another mechanic who figured it must be something wrong with the cooling system and said the fan was acting slow, so he replaced the fan-switch and thermostat and said that it wasn't the water pump. I was hoping this would do it, but it did not. He then tested the head-gasket twice and it came back negative. Then they tested the catalytic converter, came back negative. This mechanic, then proceeds to tell me the people who sold it to me may have put a sealant in which gummed up the engine and is clogging things so it can't function correctly, or put on the head-gasket wrong or any number of things to the engine. Although, wouldn't this still make the head-gasket test fail? He tells me I may need a new engine because to figure out if it truly is an engine problem that would cost as much as a new engine. I don't know what to do or where to go I am at a loss here. Spending my money just to have mechanics tell me there is some mysterious "undiagnosable" problem with my car is the most frustrating thing ever. No one can fix this car it seems.
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I just received this car as a freebie but it has come with an issue or two. The most pressing is a cooling issue. They gave it to me with the words, "The radiator leaks". Upon some testing this doesn't seem to be the whole picture.
1) If I fill the radiator up, leave the car parked over night, the next morning the radiator is still full. so I assume it is leaking from steam venting or from something else.
2) The car overheats very fast when the AC is on and the vehicle is stopped. Within about 10 minutes it went through every drop in the radiator.
3) When driving with the AC fan on medium speed, it can go a solid 30-45 minutes with no issue.
4) If I turn the AC fan on to high it takes a matter of minutes for it to begin to over heat.
A friend mentioned something about a weeper valve? I know very little about cars. So if there was any insight as to what it may be that would be excellent.
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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This has been a great car, until it developed this weird thing. It will occasionally stall while being driven. no warning, the motor just dies. It is a manual trans. and sometimes will restart if I downshift. I have become adept at slamming on the hazard lights and pulling over.
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I have a 2006 Honda Civic Sedan with 214,000 miles on it. I have a starter that is less than a year old, a new battery and the battery cables have just been cleaned and inspected. My batter and alternator tested fine. Occasionally (always in the morning) my car won't start. There is no noise, cranking or clicking. All the lights are operational with no dimming. However, today I put the car in neutral and it started right up (after not starting for three tries.)
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic (160,000 mi) that occasionally wont start. It usually happens when I have been to the store or something, when I come back out and try to start the car, it just cranks and cranks with no starting. The first time I left the car for a few hours because I though the engine might be hot and if it cooled down it would start. After leaving it for a few hours, it started right back up, no problem.
More recently when this happens, I let it sit for 10 to 15 min trying to start it every once in a while and eventually it does start back up but it really smells of fuel (I think it flooded). Also, on the freeway I can feel it misfire a little bit but to me, it's not a huge problem. Also, occasionally when at a light or something it will rev up and down until I start driving again. A few months ago, my friend replace the distributor, wire and plugs and timing belt but the problem still persisted.
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My wife reported that her 2010 Civic LX sedan sometimes made a noise in the front, like cutting sheet metal with an electric saw. I have not heard it myself during several times I drove it. What could be the possible causes?
I plan to drive it some more until I hear the noise. What specific info should I note for mechanic to diagnose the problem correctly?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6. The check engine light is on and occasionally the TCS light comes on for a few mins. then goes off. I've been to Autozone and used the diagnostic meter, it indicates a clogged or malfunctioning EGR Valve. I replaced the EGR Valve and reset the Check Engine light. The check engine light came back on. Is there some kind on engine cleaner I can use to clean out the the EGR Valve port?
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I have an early 1999 Ford F350 4x4 7.3. I purchased it used about a year ago. The trans was replaced with an ATS 4R100 and a billet torque converter. I have the paperwork for it to confirm it along with the mileage when it was installed. It currently has about 35k on the new trans.
Several months ago the trans heated up to about 200 degrees on my trans temp gauge that was already installed when I purchased it. Not a huge deal and after pulled over and high idling it off I went and no problems.
About a month ago I was towing my fifth wheel when I noticed the temp rising on a level grade. I also noticed the OD light flashing. I made it home and when I went to drive it the next day light was not flashing and it shifted and drove like normal without the trailer.
I towed the trailer again and same thing, OD light flashing and started heating up. I changed all the fluid and flushed it based on the trans flush procedure I got in this forum and replaced with an OEM trans filter. Towed the next day and everything was good. Temp was good and no OD light flashing but I lost 4th gear. All other gears shifted fine, no slipping, just won't go into 4th.
On my way back home the OD light started flashing again and instantly the heat started rising on the trans again. I was finally able to get it into 4th if I let off a little, but as soon as the OD light started flashing I lost it again.
I have a friend of a friend who works for Ford who offered to come over to hook his scanner up. When he hooked it up there was no stored codes from the OD light which we both thought was odd. Took it for a test drive and the OD light started flashing so we could get some readings. He said it showed an error shifting from 1 to 2 and another error when shifting from 3 to 4. I unfortunately forgot to ask him for the specific codes. He tried to read the torque converter info but said my truck was to old and the PID was not supported to read that info.
He said it appeared it was mechanical but without some type of break out box where he can physically shift the gears he couldn't say for sure if it was mechanical or electrical. He did not seem to interested in doing that test for me as he rebuilds trans on the side and said he could rebuild it for me.
It seems my overheating takes place when the OD light starts flashing. It still drives fine and shifts smooth with no issues with or without the OD light flashing. 4th gear usually doesn't work but on a rare occasion it will go into 4th fine which makes me believe it may be electrical.
I am new to diesels but have learned a lot about my 7.3 lately. I recently installed injectors, up pipes, hutch mod, and several other little things so I can get things done myself but am just a DIY'er who can follow good directions. I know very little to nothing about transmissions though.
While working on another issue I did notice there is a large wiring harness that connects up on the driver side of the trans. I unplugged it and was checking the wires and after removing the dirt and crud on it you could see the outside wire sheathing had deteriorated exposing the copper. I bought some liquid electrical tape and sealed everything up. I did look for a replacement wire harness at the time and the one I ordered was very similar but the plug was different so that is why I used the liquid tape at the time. I did not seem to have a problem at the time after fixing it but wanted to mention it here in case that may be an issue.
I also thought swapping out the solenoid pack may fix it. I did not want to drop the trans and send it for a rebuild if I did not need to. I know there are some other sensors associated with the trans like the TSS I think but don't know if they are even related to my issue.
I tried getting the codes from the guy but he does not have them and I can't get him back out. I have an OBDlink device connected to Torque on my phone but I couldn't get it to read trans codes. Could be user error.
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I have noticed in the past few weeks that my car ride has become very rough as I go over bumps in the road (which we have a lot of after this winter). It is quite loud and feels like I have lost "support" in the front end (I have limited car knowledge). Could this just be due to old tires (50k miles).
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I had my car towed to the shop today because when I put the gear in drive, the engine would gun like it was in neutral. It would go in reverse, but not in drive. I asked them to check the transmission fluid and it wasn't low. What it could be?
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My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 145000 miles. My mechanic recently completed a coolant flush on my vehicle and when I went to pick it up said that the radiator sealant was affected by the flush so I should bring the car back in a week to have them check it. On my way home the engine was steaming and continued to that week. When I brought the car back they said it looks like it's sealant again but I may need to buy a new radiator soon. The engine still occasionally has steam coming off of it and another mechanic says I need a new radiator ASAP. I don't know much about cars (obviously) so I am wondering if this is a normal occurrence? Is this something I should pay for if the mechanic damaged the sealant when they completed the flush?
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My 2001 Civic sedan coolant reservoir was full after a long drive - with coolant blown out from the top. I am trying to isolate the problem.
1) I Did not notice if temperature gauge rose above the mid-point on the gauge.
2) I Discovered issue after 120+ drive on a hot day (90 degrees plus).
3) The car has almost 230,000 miles.
4) About 1,500 miles prior to this incident I removed my drive belt and replaced it with the shorter drive belt to circumvent the A/C compressor as it or the compressor clutch crapped out on me.
5) The morning after this occurred the coolant reservoir was still ful.
6) I removed the radiator cap and ran the engine for about 15-20 minutes. During this time I noticed the coolant in the radiator begin to rise into the fill neck area of the radiator - no bubbles or movement other than up into the neck area. The top hose was warm and then got hot but it seemed the bottom hose remained cold. I then throttled the gas briefly and nothing happened to include the radiator remaining off. The temperature gauge read just below the mi-point. I then throttled up to about 3,000 RPMs and coolant blew out of the radiator – about 1/2 to 1 liter of coolant came out. At that point, I shut everything down, installed the radiator cap, and cleaned up the coolant. I noticed the bottom hose appeared to now be much warmer than before the coolant blew out. The next morning the coolant reservoir was empty.
7) Today, about one week later, I applied power at both fans and both worked. I checked the relays and both registered no continuity across terminals 1 and 2 - as they should. I checked the radiator fan switch for continuity when cold and there was NO continuity across the contacts - as it should. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap installed. The temperature reading rose to just below midpoint (normal) and stayed there. Radiator fan had not come on yet. I throttled up and nothing. Idled for several minutes and the temperature gauge rose to about ¾ of the way to “H.” I throttled the engine to look for smoke from the tailpipe – there was none (there is no history of any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust of my civic). I throttled up again, the temperature gauge dropped quickly below the mid-point, and the radiator fan came on for the first time. After the fan kicked off the temperature gauge again rose to ¾. I hit the gas, the temperature gauge dropped quickly to below mid-point, and then the fan came on again.
I was thinking this could be a blown head gasket but now I am questioning my initial thoughts. As of right now there is no coolant in the reservoir. One would think if the head gasket was blown that I would continue to get fluid in the reservoir even with the lost ~1 liter from my earlier test. I checked my engine oil dipstick and it looks clean - just oil. Nothing unusual visible when oil fill cap removed. Wy my coolant reservoir would have filled, blown over, not empty when cooled, only to empty out by the next morning after blowing 1/2 to 1 liter. This has been a loyal car (other than the recent loss of A/C) and I would like to see if I can get 250,000+ miles out of her with no serious maintenance.
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I have a 2001 honda civic. Its been sitting for a few months, and now it won't start. The battery is fine (radio, lights come on just fine). It tries to turn ( kinda does a "wrr wrr" sound) and stops, and then it makes a clicking sound. What do I do? I was thinking about using starter fluid to get it start.
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic Ex that goes into limp mode when the weather is hot. It only happens in hot weather: I drove it during the cooler months, and no problems. Also, it doesn't have any problems if I drive it at cooler times of the day (evening, night).
When the weather outside is hot (~75+ degrees) I can only drive my car for about 20 miles before the check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode, where the engine just shuts down and I cannot accelerate above 30mph. The engine is still running, but when I push on the gas pedal I can only go like 20-30mph. This happens when the ac is on or when the ac is off, but will happen sooner if the ac is on.
When this happens, I pull over to the side of the road and wait several minutes. Then I can restart my car and drive a few more miles, and then it happens again: limp mode. Then I pull over again, wait, and restart it. It starts fine.
In the winter months I don't have any problems, and my car drives fine. I have had the thermostat replaced, and the temperature gauge does not indicate overheating.
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Ok, this is something I have been battling with for some time now. Recently the problem has gotten rather bad.
I have an 01 Honda Civic EX automatic that I have been babying to get it to run somewhat smoothly, but with the seasonal temperature change it has gotten worse. The car does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd and will only do it once I reach 20mph, this was normal for about 6 months. Now the car will not shift when trying to move from a stop. My thinking is that it has not downshifted into first. I had the transmission rebuilt 2 years ago. There is a slow transmission leak but I have kept it topped off. Sometimes it will not shift from 3rd to 4th... this is new.
My thought is that the shift solenoids are worn out and need replacing.I do have random misfires, but I think that is a separate issue.
Also, it has almost no problem when driving from a cold start. It gets worse the more you drive or after the engine has reached running temp.
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Have a 2001 Civic DX, Manual Transmission, 228K miles. 1.7L SOHC.
Recently changed front motor mount and timing belt on the same day.
I noticed the car running rough and is only rough at certain RPM. Here are the rpm ranges it runs rough, 700rpm which is idle, 2200-2400rpm and 3400rpm approximately. It idles at 700rpm which I believe is the idle rpm on my car, so thinking my timing is not off. One more thing I noticed is if I have AC on and reving down in rpm it sounds like it is about to shutoff (never shuts off) and get a stronger vibration and same thing when I turn the AC on at idle. With ac on my rpm are 720rpm give and take a few. I been driving with above symptom for 300mi+ so far, even got it upto 95mph, don't know if it is an indication of anything. Got new spark plugs installed at 220K miles.
Could it be the motor mount or my harmonic balancer is out of balance. I did have to use 3/4" impact wrench to knock the harmonic balancer bolt loose. It is a little rusty given I got 228K miles on it.
I am just dreading the thought of my timing being off by a tooth, me and my friend checked the timing marks per oem manual, he checked the cam shaft pulley marks and I did the crankshaft. When we installed the timing belt I only turned the engine counter clockwise so I would not cause a problem with timing belt slack. My AC belt may be a little too tight as well.
The motor mount I put in was an aftermarket one that I bought from amazon. But I have put in aftermarket mount before on the same car and never had anything like this. I am planning to loosen the motor mount, shake the engine, tighten them back up and see if it makes a difference. May be the engine is not seated properly.
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