Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Cannot Shift From 1st To 2nd And Will Only Do It Once Reach 20mph
Nov 16, 2015
Ok, this is something I have been battling with for some time now. Recently the problem has gotten rather bad.
I have an 01 Honda Civic EX automatic that I have been babying to get it to run somewhat smoothly, but with the seasonal temperature change it has gotten worse. The car does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd and will only do it once I reach 20mph, this was normal for about 6 months. Now the car will not shift when trying to move from a stop. My thinking is that it has not downshifted into first. I had the transmission rebuilt 2 years ago. There is a slow transmission leak but I have kept it topped off. Sometimes it will not shift from 3rd to 4th... this is new.
My thought is that the shift solenoids are worn out and need replacing.I do have random misfires, but I think that is a separate issue.
Also, it has almost no problem when driving from a cold start. It gets worse the more you drive or after the engine has reached running temp.
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I had my car towed to the shop today because when I put the gear in drive, the engine would gun like it was in neutral. It would go in reverse, but not in drive. I asked them to check the transmission fluid and it wasn't low. What it could be?
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1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
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Thinking of buying a new civic with mt. One annoying thing is many mt rev higher at speed than automatics.
Tried to find out online how high civic revs, couldn't find it though.
I'm thinking anything over 2500 is going to sound whiny on a long trip.
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with an automatic transmission that started acting up tonight. I am having difficulty getting it to shift out of park. Once I finally get it out of park, it shifts to everything else fine. It's not because the wheel is locked (checked that already). What could be the problem and how cheap can I get it fixed? I just got socked nearly $800 for an alternator and battery when I broke down in Indianapolis during my vacation and was lead to believe, by the garage that repaired it, that my serpentine belt was going to go at any time. In any event, it's the only car my family has, it has 177,777 miles on it (roughly) and we can't afford to trade it in for another vehicle. We have to keep it running.
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I had an engine running problem recently with my 92 Honda Civic. I felt the car stalling last Sunday when it tried to shift beyond 25 mph. I had to step on the pedal harder to get it to move over 35 mph, then I felt the gear shift and then it ran all right after it reached 35 mph. However, it happened about 80% of time when it had to stop at a traffic light and go during the last couple days. When I pushed the gas pedal, I could hear the engine stall and it slowly moved (took about 40 seconds) from 25 to 35. The problem seems getting worse today. I checked the transmission fluid and it is low, about 1/3 on the dipstick. I checked the ignition wire and it seemed connected fine. I recall that I had the similar problem about 4 years ago. I was told the # 2 spark plug well was filling with oil causing the ignition wire to short out. They replaced the value cover gasket, spark plugs and ignition wires and charged me around three hundred bucks. Would this be the same issue again? Or it is something else?
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX that is choking and/or almost stalling out when I shift usually from 1st to 2nd gear, but also sometimes from 2nd to 3rd. It usually happens after I've driven it for about 20 minutes upon coming to a stop (intersection/stop sign). When I finally go, I push on the accelerator but it feels like no gas is being pumped through with a loss of power. I repeatedly push on the accelerator until it finally kicks over and power is restored. My check engine light is on and I've had the diagnostics read from local parts stores and mechanics and no one can narrow it down. My mechanic said that it sounds like the valves were sticking but can't narrow it down to one thing without ripping apart the engine and going in deep, which would be expensive, but also not as expensive as a dealership.
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When driving, a pin fell out of the shifter arm under the car and now the shift stick is extremely loose and, although it will go into gear, it is almost undriveable. I have reinserted a pin, but the stick shift is still loose. I gave it a test drive and I drove about 10 feet in first gear, but when I put it into reverse, the car continues to move forward.
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My 93 Honda Civic (manual T) is starting to be difficult to shift into gear. I mainly notice it when the car is idle and in neutral. I go to put into 1st or reverse and it won't go. I try all gears at that point, and it's the same. When it finally does go, it's a loud thud-like noise. People around look over at me! It doesn't happen every time, but I am noticing it more and more. And it's a bit scary when I have been at an intersection or something and I can't get moving. It has 189k. I have also noticed that the car is loud, too, when I am in reverse up our driveway and the clutch is slightly depressed.
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I just bought a 95 honda civic si vtec automatic. I've had it almost two weeks I haven't had any problems with it until the other night my dashboard lights went out, I looked at the fuse it was bad so I replaced it but then I turned the car on and I can't shift out of park. Yes brake lights work and all the other fuses are just fine. I also have my gear shifter lights out and my stereo is suppose to turn on when I start the car but will no longer turn on at all. People say it's fuses, my transmissions locked....
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05 Honda Civic 5spd... 157k original miles, and I bought it new. 1-4th gear no issues. Reverse has always been hard to shift into and sometimes misses getting into gear, but the car has had that quirk since i bought it new in 05. Last month driving home I was cruising in 5th gear and the car just dropped out of gear into neutral. No gear grinding, no noticeable noises at all. just suddenly slowed down and when i went to grab the stick its was neutral.
Since then it did it a lot the following week, but now has stopped. I've talked to a few different mechanics and gotten a few different diagnosis. First the clutch. Another said the transmission, but "we might as well do the clutch since we have it in the shop". Now another mechanic says its just the clutch linkage bushing.Obviously I want the cheapest way to go, but at the same time I need to fix it right since its my only car.
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Started hearing a weird humming noise (not the usual hyundai hum in the front passenger side) coming from the front when decelerating from approximately 20mph down to a stop or from a stop up to 20mph. Went to a shop and ruled out wheel bearings, brakes, rotation, alignment, etc. Noise stopped.
Couple weeks later noticed physical resistance and upon accelerating to about 40mph it felt like I had a flat tire. That bumping, vibrating, shuddering feeling. No flat tire. Physical resistance, not power. Came and went in severity depending on terrain and speed. Brought it to a 2nd shop because the first was closed. The guy found codes that indicated the anti-lock brake system had failed. Said it should be covered under warranty and I should go to dealer.
Dealer replaced a brake switch (which has been recalled and was replaced before) and an inhibitor switch. They assessed the brakes too.
Car drives fine for a week and suddenly the brakes are screeching and we can't reverse out of a parking spot like the car is stuck on a snow mound but isnt. Rock it- in and out of forward and reverse to get out. We test it putting it in reverse again and car slams to a stop. When the car was pulled up on the tow truck we noticed only the rear driver tire didn't spin-locked up.
Dealer says no computer codes and that they just had to "adjust" the brake switch they had replaced. Drove home fine. Next day and for these next few days-something is still wrong. Physical resistance, not power. Cracking/popping noises when braking.
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,My wife drives a 96 Civic DX Hatchback, 5 Speed. It has about 160,000 miles on it, and she only drives it to work and back (a 15 minute drive via the interstate).
Just yesterday, she told me that the clutch feels 'looser' than normal, for lack of a better term. When it's first started, it's hard for her to get it into first and/or reverse, but once driving, she says the shifting is fine. When she's driving at highway speeds in 5th for a while, then has to get off at her exit, she said it's hard for her to get it back into 1st gear. She says she feels like she has to push the clutch harder than normal to get it back into 1st gear.
I don't know much about manual transmissions, and am hoping for some insight into what the problem(s) may be?
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I have been having a problem with my brake light warning on my dashboard as my car accelerates and shifts gears. Coincidently the problem began after carting around a co-worker that weighed some 250 pounds in my 2000 Honda Civic. I'm wondering if I have an alignment problem or something more serious.
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I have noticed in the past few weeks that my car ride has become very rough as I go over bumps in the road (which we have a lot of after this winter). It is quite loud and feels like I have lost "support" in the front end (I have limited car knowledge). Could this just be due to old tires (50k miles).
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Honda civic ex 2001 w/ 202k miles.... 1 month ago was driving on highway, the a/c started going, then I began losing power, temp went hot, pulled over steaming hood, wouldn't take much water.
Mechanic did: replace thermostat, therm gasket, new radiator fan temp switch, pressure test.
Ran fine for 2 weeks, then heat began to rise again & overheated. Each time it overheated the top small hose on radiator popped off(like a 1/2 in. hose). Back to mechanic: did pressure test, did a full cooling system test all were great...Only thing he found was a small radiator crack....thought it just took a week to lose coolant. Replaced radiator/ecu temp sending unit/refill and pressure test.
1 week later, temp spikes to hot, so I bring it back....he tested pressure/flow no leaks again...he can't figure it out.One note: for about the past 3months, right after starting, I would come to my first or second stop, then accelerate and hear a squeal that lasts like 5 seconds or so...this happened intermittently for about 3 months, and is still happening(I can drive very short distances now). A friend thought the issue was the belt that controlled the a/c and 2 other things
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My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 145000 miles. My mechanic recently completed a coolant flush on my vehicle and when I went to pick it up said that the radiator sealant was affected by the flush so I should bring the car back in a week to have them check it. On my way home the engine was steaming and continued to that week. When I brought the car back they said it looks like it's sealant again but I may need to buy a new radiator soon. The engine still occasionally has steam coming off of it and another mechanic says I need a new radiator ASAP. I don't know much about cars (obviously) so I am wondering if this is a normal occurrence? Is this something I should pay for if the mechanic damaged the sealant when they completed the flush?
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My 2001 Civic sedan coolant reservoir was full after a long drive - with coolant blown out from the top. I am trying to isolate the problem.
1) I Did not notice if temperature gauge rose above the mid-point on the gauge.
2) I Discovered issue after 120+ drive on a hot day (90 degrees plus).
3) The car has almost 230,000 miles.
4) About 1,500 miles prior to this incident I removed my drive belt and replaced it with the shorter drive belt to circumvent the A/C compressor as it or the compressor clutch crapped out on me.
5) The morning after this occurred the coolant reservoir was still ful.
6) I removed the radiator cap and ran the engine for about 15-20 minutes. During this time I noticed the coolant in the radiator begin to rise into the fill neck area of the radiator - no bubbles or movement other than up into the neck area. The top hose was warm and then got hot but it seemed the bottom hose remained cold. I then throttled the gas briefly and nothing happened to include the radiator remaining off. The temperature gauge read just below the mi-point. I then throttled up to about 3,000 RPMs and coolant blew out of the radiator – about 1/2 to 1 liter of coolant came out. At that point, I shut everything down, installed the radiator cap, and cleaned up the coolant. I noticed the bottom hose appeared to now be much warmer than before the coolant blew out. The next morning the coolant reservoir was empty.
7) Today, about one week later, I applied power at both fans and both worked. I checked the relays and both registered no continuity across terminals 1 and 2 - as they should. I checked the radiator fan switch for continuity when cold and there was NO continuity across the contacts - as it should. I ran the engine for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap installed. The temperature reading rose to just below midpoint (normal) and stayed there. Radiator fan had not come on yet. I throttled up and nothing. Idled for several minutes and the temperature gauge rose to about ¾ of the way to “H.” I throttled the engine to look for smoke from the tailpipe – there was none (there is no history of any kind of smoke coming from the exhaust of my civic). I throttled up again, the temperature gauge dropped quickly below the mid-point, and the radiator fan came on for the first time. After the fan kicked off the temperature gauge again rose to ¾. I hit the gas, the temperature gauge dropped quickly to below mid-point, and then the fan came on again.
I was thinking this could be a blown head gasket but now I am questioning my initial thoughts. As of right now there is no coolant in the reservoir. One would think if the head gasket was blown that I would continue to get fluid in the reservoir even with the lost ~1 liter from my earlier test. I checked my engine oil dipstick and it looks clean - just oil. Nothing unusual visible when oil fill cap removed. Wy my coolant reservoir would have filled, blown over, not empty when cooled, only to empty out by the next morning after blowing 1/2 to 1 liter. This has been a loyal car (other than the recent loss of A/C) and I would like to see if I can get 250,000+ miles out of her with no serious maintenance.
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I have a 2001 honda civic. Its been sitting for a few months, and now it won't start. The battery is fine (radio, lights come on just fine). It tries to turn ( kinda does a "wrr wrr" sound) and stops, and then it makes a clicking sound. What do I do? I was thinking about using starter fluid to get it start.
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic Ex that goes into limp mode when the weather is hot. It only happens in hot weather: I drove it during the cooler months, and no problems. Also, it doesn't have any problems if I drive it at cooler times of the day (evening, night).
When the weather outside is hot (~75+ degrees) I can only drive my car for about 20 miles before the check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode, where the engine just shuts down and I cannot accelerate above 30mph. The engine is still running, but when I push on the gas pedal I can only go like 20-30mph. This happens when the ac is on or when the ac is off, but will happen sooner if the ac is on.
When this happens, I pull over to the side of the road and wait several minutes. Then I can restart my car and drive a few more miles, and then it happens again: limp mode. Then I pull over again, wait, and restart it. It starts fine.
In the winter months I don't have any problems, and my car drives fine. I have had the thermostat replaced, and the temperature gauge does not indicate overheating.
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