Civic - Honda :: 2000 - Slipping Into Neutral From Drive Or Reverse Suddenly
Sep 7, 2016
it's a 2000 honda civic EX. I pulled into a parking spot and slowed down, then decided to speed back up and when I accelerated it was like the car was in neutral. No gear would drive. Turned off the engine and re started and it shifted and did fine then about a 1/4 mile down the road the same thing happened. It just switched into neutral. The transmission fluid is full and clean and the filter has been changed. There was no warning signs at all.
The only caveat I can think of is last week at 15 mph my front passenger wheel fell off after someone replaced a tire. I traveled less than 10 feet on the wheel. But didn't think the transmission would be low enough to hit the ground.
At first I thought transmission clutch but it would be doing it in one direction? Then I thought maybe a pump? Or could it be a sensor or the torque converter.
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I have a honda civic 2000 and recently I noticed that it overheat only after exiting a long drive on highway. The car does not overheat for my normal daily commutes (within the city).
I tried the following:
- Checked coolant on bot radiator and overflow tank.
- Changed the thermostat- No leak on the ground in the garage where I parked the car overnight
- No noise to lead to an eventual issue with water pump
- Radiator fan is kicking ok
- Had a mechanic do the chemical test for the head gasket: negatif
- Found that there is air in the cooling system:tried to burp the system 2 times but air is still in the coolant system. Not sure where its coming from !!?? Might be that this could be causing the overheating ?
- Found a crack on the manifold and changed the manifold then tried to get rid of the air (burping the system): no success. The air is still not removed completely.
- Changed the radiator cap.
What can I do next to diagnose the overheating condition that happens only after exiting long drive highway?
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So I am getting really sick of my 02 Prius...it only has 124k miles on it. So what is happening now is that I'll be driving when all of a sudden the car slips into a neutral mode. The engine revs when I hit the accelerator but produces no power. So I pull over, throw it in Park, turn the car off, and when I restart, it is back to normal.
These are the codes I'm getting...I know this slippage is only one of my problems..
p1437
p3191
p3006
p3011
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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The reverse gear in my F150 has started slipping all of a sudden, with no noise or notice. All forwards gears are functioning properly. If I rev up the motor in reverse it seems like it wants to go, but I get the wrench light/safe mode and it now has a P0720 code. I've done some research and replaced the Output Speed Sensor and replaced the tansmission fuild and filter. I cleared the codes once before I changed the sensor, and now my reader indicated the the P0720 is "Pending". Do I have to keep trying to use reverse? Drive it more? Plus it looked like after driving it today that I might have overfilled the transmission.
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I came across this site that seems to implicate very common issues with failures in gen 2 : Transmission Slipping ! | Hybrid Cars
With people experiencing lack of power and "slipping" sensation or tranny going from drive to neutral.
I thought there were common issues with gen 1 motors burning up inside transaxle, but I thought gen 2 was much improved with only rare failures. Yes, I did read both sticky threads giving very detailed accounts how to replace them.
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2006 F250 5.4l 4x4, long box, quad cab
Current issue: No overdrive / slipping into neutral / rough going into reverse
Codes: I don't have exact code but will get (p0755)... but shows shifting solenoid B malfunction ( this is the OD/Reverse one) check engine light on and tow light blinking
So whats been done: shifting solenoid B (OD/Reverse) was replaced (used part) inspected valve body and o rings... all good... worked for a week... then exact same issue. Transmission showed no signs of gear damage, oil looks good
Next: Replaced shifting solenoid B again (new one) and transmission wiring harness. Still no change, same codes. Seems to be having a communication issue between transmission and PCM? However continuity of wires and connectors seems ok.
One more piece of interesting info. Every-time before the truck slips I hear clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under dash drivers side. No clicking no slipping... however never goes into OD at any time.
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I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
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My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
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I'm a new owner to my first 4x4 vehicle. My vehicle is a 2007 f150 xlt. Today while I was driving into work I had my vehicle in 4wd high. As I was going down hill I let off the gas and started braking. When all of a sudden my 4wd drive switched into neutral. I am wondering what could cause this to happen and whether it's an issue or not? It is snowing which was my purpose for being in 4wd.
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My fiance has a honda civic that has been sitting in an indoor garage for around a year. I move the car about 6 months ago with no issues. Recently we needed to move it again and of course the battery was dead so I decided to push it. With the key on, I released the shifter lock and put the car in neutral but the car wouldn't budge an inch.
Is it possible this is more than just rusted brakes? If it is just rusted brakes do I need to take off the wheels to free them?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic with about 167,000 original miles, I had my transmission rebuild about two months ago. Two things happened after: 1. The engine started to heat up. 2. Started to loose coolant for no reason. Well, after adding and driving for 8 weeks it stop losing coolant and cool to normal. Today I got a surprise on my way to school and work. It has started to over heat and the transmission is slipping on the 3rd gear. I do drive about 100 miles every day as I commute to work.
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It does not like to stay in 5th gear, drops out to neutral. 2001 Accent Hatchback. 1.5l 5-speed
The other day it started slipping out of 5th gear on the expressway. Held good for the first 10 to 20 minutes. Afterwards I had to hold it in 5th for it to stay in gear. While holding I noticed it pushed on the shifter when applying throttle, and let up some when I let of the gas.
I inspected the pivots at the transmission. The forward / back bushing was not installed properly by the previous owner. I rigged it up better with a fender washer and cotterpin. It previously had just a pin and the bushing had expanded out. This removed the play from shifting I had previously noticed. It also halfway fixed the popping out of gear. It stays in gear a little longer, and when I put it back into 5th it stays there for a while most of the time.
I have not inspected the lubricant level yet. Where to check next?
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Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
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I am experiencing a slight vibration with in drive or reverse but not when it is in neutral. I change the spark plugs and checked the PCV. I have the latest model already and I replace the gasket in the PVC. There is no errors in VAGCOM.. What could be causing that? Mounts???
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i have a 1994 nissan quest 3.0 v6 and when i put it in reverse or drive it will slip into neutral if i am stopped. Also the front motor mount needs to be replaced, which I will do soon. Are these problems related, if not how do i fix the shifter/linkage problem? When driving the vehicle upshifts and downshifts perfectly.
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I have recently been having problems with my 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon). When I press power, all the dashboard lights turn on. And when I try to shift the car into reverse or drive the car stays on neutral. What is going on?
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Have a 2003 Saturn Vue with a variable transmission (rebuilt). It will only go in reverse even when in drive, or natural.
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Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic 5-speed with about 200,000 miles. It is making a low-pitched whining noise when I let the clutch out in neutral. I took it to a mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as the throw out bearing. Being mechanically inclined, I dropped the tranny and changed the clutch and bearing, but started it back up, and the noise is still there - as if I did nothing at all. It is not constant volume - sometimes it is louder than others. It is usually loudest first start of the day. I live in Houston, so its not like it is "cold", just not hot. To be fair to the mechanic, the bearing was quite corroded, but everything else seemed to be working properly.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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