Civic - Honda :: 1999 - Starts After Multiple Turns Of Key With Pressing Of Gas Pedal
Jun 4, 2011
Vehicle inconsistently/occasionally taking multiple turns of key to start. Then, multiple turns of key with pressing of gas pedal, which has now progress to stalling (three times within one month) immediately after difficulty with starting and when stopped at a light.
Took vehicle to Honda dealership... dealership could not duplicate the problem so replaced...1) coil assembly, ignition2) head assembly, rotor3) cap assembly4) spark plugs
Two days later the problem reoccurred-- two turns to start-up and when placed the car in reverse to back out of my parking space and in the process of moving, the car stalled, but started on the first turn of the key and I drove straight to the dealership.
They now believe it may be the main fuel relay or the fuel pressure regular.
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1995 Honda Civic appears battery is dead, takes 20 turns to start up, then has trouble with RPM's while driving. Even the clock and radio reset I thought the battery was so dead, but the car still starts up every time. And sometimes when I accelerate it has trouble keeping up and chokes a bit. Is this one problem or two? It seems electrical to me.
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I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
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I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey that doesn't start sometimes - mostly when it's really cold but not exclusively. It doesn't seem to matter if the gas tank is full or empty. It turns over fine and will catch and the die multiple times. There is sometimes a large "clunk" while it is turning over and all the lights will go off and then it will start turning over again. It can take a minute to 15 minutes to start when it isn't starting but about half the time, it start right up. This is only in the morning, once it's going for the day, it works. 126,000 miles, timing belt changed a couple of years ago.
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 153,000 miles. Whenever I come to a stop my car turns off, before it turns off the check engine light will flickr and the right passenger door makes weird noises. When it turns off I put the car in park and it turns back on perfectly. When it does turn off the battery light and oil light comes on and stays on. This morning it happened again and the car wouldn't start up for 10 minutes I need to know what's wrong before it gets worse. I already got a tune up on it. Could it be transmission problem because the car will sometimes just jump up 1000rpm.
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Honda Civic ( not a hybrid) with 137k miles has had inconsistent starting issues since last Spring. I had a new battery installed in March of 2014, and it still had inconsistent starting issues. It acted as if it wanted to turn over, and then finally would after 2 or 3 turns of the key. Some days it started just fine, too. The mechanics that replaced the battery said that they battery was fine and then they could not find any issues.
It still continued and I brought it to a different mechanic after a jump 6 weeks after the new battery was installed. They put a new starter in, and said that the seams or seals were worn and drawing too much power from the battery. That starter was replaced in May. Once again, and over the last couple of days the car is not wanting to start. It is cranking, but takes 2 or 3 turns of the key. Sometimes it has started just fine, and it started for the mechanics just fine this morning.
Simple things I've ruled out: regular oil changes, a full tank of gas, not sitting outside in cold weather, and not sitting for long periods of time. An idea is that something might be drawing a current from the battery while the car is off.
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I have a 98 1.6L Honda Civic DX with 200,000 miles and standard transmission. It was running great. Then I was going up a steep hill and it lost all power plus no rev from gas peddle. after tapping the gas it started powering again. CE light was flashing and staid on. The next day the light went off but the problem kept happening and sometimes the light would come on. It started stalling in 1st gear sometimes(not having power when I first hit gas)but then it would catch and pick up. then when shifting into 2nd or third gear it would loose power again but then catch. I got codes read p0302 and p1399. problem got worse and worse. now car won't start. it turns over and almost sounds like it will, but doesn't, ignite. I also noticed there's too much oil in tank from last oil change. My mechanic has no idea.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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I have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
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I have a 99 Honda Civic. A few months ago, while driving in my neighborhood at about 25 mph, the car just stalled out and died. Within a minute, it started up again and was fine. My mechanic has checked it out a few times and found nothing. It's been totally fine and just did it again today. I leave tomorrow for a trip and am a little concerned about taking it on the road.
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Right after I filled the gas tank, the car will start for a few seconds and shortly die afterwards. Could it possibly be the purge control solenoid? Right now I'm completely lost...
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1992 Honda Civic Starts fine but kills as soon as you release the key. Hold the key in the position with the starter motor running and it keeps running. In the old days we would replace the resistor on the firewall. Today?
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I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
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If the outside temp is cool (say below 75) the a/c works, but as soon as the day gets warm it starts blowing only warm air. I took it to the Honda dealership and they said that it was low on freon and that it needs a new clutch and a new coil. They recharged it and added dye. A week later I took it to a good independent shop that specializes in Honda repairs. They said that the compressor has power and ground and is full of freon and dye but they found a bad thermal switch and that I need a new compressor. I have no understanding of car a/c systems and thus don't know which repair sounds like the right one (if either) based on the diagnostics that have been done.
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I have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
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I have replaced the computer in a Honda Civic twice. The first time the car was acting like it wasn't getting power;the engine would rev when the gas pedal was pressed but the car would not go! so the computer was replaced, and two weeks later,t he same thing happened. They said it was a short and would not replace the computer-it was our problem. Finally, they agreed to replace the part. Got the car back, fixed a ouple of othere things and now, two weeks later, the same thing is happening. Car acts like it's not getting any power, and this time the check iengine light came on. The car has a new altenator, new battery, and the after-factory radio has been removed..
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is.
As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless.
(I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg. If I could cut the pedal travel in half (or more), I would like that very much.) Is this possible? How would I do such a thing?
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord that I bought used two years ago. Lately, when it rains heavily, the battery light on the dash turns on and the power steering shuts off. I've had to pull over a couple of times. The problem only happens when I drive over 20 mph, solves itself within a minute after I stop, and never happens when it's dry outside. I think the problem has to do with splash from water on the road. What's going on, and how I can fix it? It's pretty dangerous.
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The car I drive is a 1997 Civic EX, and if I drive it for about five minutes, the temperature gauge starts creeping up real fast. It'll go to the red if I let it, and the only thing that brings it down is turning on the heater and fan, at full blast. which is pretty miserable in summer.
I looked under the hood and found the radiator fan isn't starting up, no matter how hot it gets. So I checked the fuse - it looked good. Replaced it anyway just to be sure. No change. Then I replaced the relay switch. that didn't change anything. And I also replaced the fan motor. Still nothing.
I have read elsewhere that I should check my thermostat, but I can't see what it has to do with the fan motor not starting? also that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor might be faulty but it is my understanding that that controls fuel-air mixtures and I just don't know.
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A mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?
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