Civic - Honda :: 1999 - Brakes Are Sticky
Sep 20, 2012
Replaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
View 2 RepliesReplaced break pads, calipers and master cylinder...still breaks sticking parts were replaced 3 weeks ago and are worn already.
View 2 RepliesMy 1998 Civic coupe Si has 160,00 miles and I enjoy her today as much as I did the day I bought her new 15 years ago!Just recently the manual shifting has become heavy and "sticky". Problem popped up almost from 1 day to the next. Not gradual.Still shifts OK, and no other transmission issues.
Second issue: Pinhole in catalytic converter (according to garage). Any way to patch it? Just trying to baby her along without putting too much $ into repair.
My car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
I took my car to a nearby repair shop. They replaced the rear brake pads and resurfaced the rear rotors. When I left, I felt and heard clunking while driving. Initially I thought it was just stuff rolling around in the trunk. As I drove on, I realized it must be something the shop did. It sounded like metal scraping metal every time the tire rotated and started making terrible sounds when I hit the brakes. I stopped to take a look. It looked like the rotor or something behind it had ripped. What happened here? It's a 2006 Honda Civic EX. Picture hopefully attached.
View 9 RepliesI am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?
View 19 Replies02 Civic, 1.7L, 114K Found the front brakes sticking. I popped the bleeder open and got a little squirt out of the left side and a less of a squirt out of the right. I'm in the process of changing the pads which are on order from Rockauto. I took the existing pads off and lubed the pad guides/holding slots but I felt them starting to drag again after a short test drive. Also they did not seem to respond properly with normal braking. How would I test the caliper(s)? It's got to be a bad caliper or master cylinder causing this and I just don't want to throw parts at it.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2011 Honda Civic EX-L sedan with 10,000miles on it. I've noticed that the brakes often make a squeaking noise when I am driving slowly and come to a stop at a stop sign. It seems to happen most often after a cold start (e.g. I notice it in the morning when I start my drive to work and otherwise when I have not been driving around in my car). I took it to the dealership today and they said everything was fine with the brakes; they are in great shape and starting to wear normally. They found nothing wrong and they did not hear the squeaking although I heard it this morning and last night.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Honda Civic with approximately 140K miles on it. When I am going 60+ miles an hour and try to brake, the brakes shake. Or at least that is the best way I can describe it. It makes it hard to stop well when going fast, I have to release the brake and kind of pump them until the shaking is under control. What causes this? and what needs to be fixed? I wonder if it is the way I drive or just a normal occurrence?
View 5 Replies I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
I got my car inspected this summer, and the front brakes were reported as 8 and my rear brakes 6. I got front brakes not too long ago, and my rear brakes are original to the car. Recently, my brakes have very randomly (maybe once per car ride) started making a gentle squeaking or light grinding / grumbling noise when I apply the brakes. It doesn't seem to matter how hard I apply them or at what point during the car ride it is. Now, it will never squeak or grumble/grind at the same time, and the sound is never very loud. It also does not happen when my foot is off the brake or when the brake is released. Only when the brake is applied.
I've had squeaking happen in my previous car's rear brakes when some fluid was leaking, and my rear brakes had to be serviced, however, this sounds like it is coming from the front. I went looking in my owner's manual for a service schedule (for a maintenance code not related to this issue) and noted in very small print underneath the schedule that I should have replaced my brake fluid about a year ago. I don't know whether this could be related, and yes, I am going to get my car checked/serviced soon, but I cannot do it until next week. My questions are what might be causing the noise and also if it could be dangerous. I don't think that my brake pads are worn. The brakes also function very well as far as I can tell. I have no issues stopping. I have 75K miles on my car...
My car, a 2009 Civic, has started sounding like an airplane when I brake, just in the last day or so. Sometimes the noise continues for a little bit after I'm off the brake and moving again, but mostly not. Obviously, I'm going to get it in to the shop, but my question is do I need to take off work and do it today / tomorrow (Tuesday / Wednesday), or will it probably be OK if I wait until Saturday morning?
View 12 RepliesTrying to figure out the best option to remedy some braking issues. One is the squishy pedal feel. It does not happen all the time, but sometimes I will notice that the pedal is "sagging" for lack of a better term, and when I let up on the pedal and press again, the point of action/effect seems to be much higher.
As for the pads, I'm also curious if new ones will work with the grab I've been feeling after leaving the car outside for a few days. I have completely stopped using my e-brake because if it rains or is wet to begin with, the pads seem to stick (I believe) to the rotors and I have to practically to a low rpm launch to get them unstuck. Then I hear a sort of bumpy feel like there is pad material stuck to the rotors. It usually fades after some highway driving and decent braking. I could have sworn it happened the other day with NO e-brake engaged though, so I really don't know what is going on.
This one should be easy but I feel the need to check. Lately the brakes on my GMC sierra pick up truck has been sticking. Not badly but ever so little. Seems to happen most when it has been parked and when i put it into drive it doesn't move. If I let it sit there for a moment the brakes release and it does just fine after that. If I hit the gas and go I get the same result. what do you think? Calipers??
View 12 RepliesMy car is a 2011 BMW 328i Coupe, currently at 24K mi. Recently i found my cars brake pedal get sticky after Ive applied the brakes from time to time. But nothing server. My routine schedule maintenance will be coming up soon, so i am just wondering what could be the probable cause. Could it be the brake fluid?
View 6 RepliesIt is 10 degrees now (-12 C). I softly engaged the clutch and noticed the car wasn't moving. I tapped on the gas lightly and the car was trying to move, but couldn't. I finally gave it a lot of gas and there was a huge POP sound. When I park my car, I leave e-brake engaged. Are brakes suppose to stick that bad in cold weather? The Pop sounded like a .45 Pistol!!
View 9 RepliesI've replaced the ignition coilI've replaced the fuel pumpI've replaced the main relayI don't have air conditioningIf it's 80 degrees or hotter, it will stall after a few minutes of drivingIt doesn't smell like rotten eggs, so the catalytic convertor is goodWhen I try to start it up right after it stalls, it starts up for a second, then shuts back downIt starts back up in a couple minutes
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Civic, manual trans, 127k, 1.6 4 cyl, has problems starting if the car has been sitting for more than 1 hour. For example, if I go to store for 5 min and start the car, it starts up instantly. Car drives fine and when I "Floor it" Peddle to the floor, i have all the power there. Its just when i start the car after 1 hour of sitting, or over night, it takes a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to start. What could be wrong?
View 7 RepliesCar is a 1999 Honda Civic.
My car was inspected yesterday. I needed the A pipe replaced (exhaust pipe connected to the muffler) and a radiator leak repaired or maybe the radiator replaced. I'm in dire straits, and this was paid for by a charity. I really need my car, as I will have nowhere to stay as of this coming Saturday. Anyway, the repairs were made and the car passed inspection.
I drove off, made a stop somewhere, happened to glance at one of my tires, and noticed deep cracks in it. Odd that I hadn't noticed these before, because I've had trouble with dry rot before. These are top-of-the-line tires (bought back when I had money as an investment against skidding accidents), but they're four years old now.
Granted, I needed it to pass inspection, but would it pass with tires that have dry rot? The first time I had dry rot, the cracks were barely noticeable and had to be pointed out to me. (That time, they were only one year old, within the warranty period and so got replaced.) This time, the cracks are much bigger and deeper, and in all the tires (easy to see, once I looked). Now I'm worried that I'll have a blowout very soon.
Not much I can do about it with no money, but I'd like to at least know what to expect. Seriously, if the cracks are that bad, wouldn't the mechanic fail it for inspection?
Last question: Is dry rot the same thing as weather cracking? Is weather cracking dangerous?