I noticed liquid leaking from the area between the B exhaust pipe and the muffler. The B exhaust pipe is simply the long exhaust pipe that attaches to the A pipe, or center exhaust pipe near the front. I think the leak is water. It's a slow leak/drip that appears to be coming from the gasket. I have a 1.6L 1998 Honda Civic DX.
View 6 Repliesi have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
View 7 RepliesMy 98 Honda Civic is leaking antifreeze. The man at the oil change place said that I need a new head gasket. But when I look at the engine with the motor running, I see that the fluid is dripping from something I believe is called the water outlet cover. This is on the far left side of the motor where the top radiator hose connects. Can I safely assume that the water outlet gasket is truly the problem and is a cheaper fix?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1992 Civic sedan with a lot of coolant in the muffler. Let me put it this way: we messed up the head and coolant leaked into the exhaust pipe. Anymore detail than that and it's a long story. We have a new head now, but there's a lot of coolant in the muffler. My dad tried taking it off and tipping it on one end, but the fluid is stuck and only dribbles out when we slosh it around. How can we get this fluid out without damage to the muffler?
View 12 RepliesI had the oil changed on my 2002 Civic at the Honda garage. They said the pan was badly rusted out and beginning to leak and that the pipe (exhaust pipe?) would also fall apart from rust when they went to change the oil pan. They said it was unsafe to drive in the meantime because the pan is so soft. If the pan springs a leak, I can just pull over and get a tow, right? I hadn't even noticed the leakage, it's minor. I'll take it to an independent garage for an estimate, but what should I be expecting for something like this?And can I safely drive it around town in the meantime?
View 19 RepliesAs shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
View 15 RepliesI had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 honda civic lx with a cracked manifold. Is this a serious repair..pricey wise? I understand its very important to get it fixed.. Firestone quoted it around 500. I've found inexpensive exhaust manifolds online.. and looking it up on how to repair, most of the articles say that it is an easy fix..
View 3 RepliesI own a 2005 F350 Diesel and I want to remove my stock exhaust and run a side exhaust with no muffler. Has any Diesel owners out there run a side exhaust system?
View 14 RepliesMy 1998 Honda Civic has been dormant in my drive way for about a month and a half with very little gas. I went out to try to start it the other day and it struggled for a bit and never turned over. It isn't the batter considering the headlights and radio work just fine, thus I sought out the nearby gas station and attempted to solve the problem by putting gas in it, yet when I returned and emptied out my gas can into the tank it was the same ol' story. What it could be?
View 6 RepliesAbout a month and a half ago, I took my 2005 Honda Civic LX to a mechanic for an oil change. He informed me that my air filter needed to be replaced as well, so I told him to go ahead and do so. Ever since I got the car back, however, I've been smelling car exhaust unless I push the button for recirculated air. What could be causing this?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
I have 1998 Honda civic 2 Dr and i was trying to switch cd players in it and blew some fuses so i checked all and replaced the blown ones but now it won't start.
View 3 RepliesI've been checking my oil every morning for a few weeks now because of a worry about it burning off. I check it at the same time each morning, in pretty much the same parking spot, before driving it. Every time I take out the dipstick, wipe it off and put it back in to check. What's weird is that the level seems to fluctuate. Some days it's up over the higher dot. Some days it's down closer to the lower one (though it hasn't been under). Most days it's somewhere closer to the middle between the two. Is it common for it to fluctuate that much on a day to day basis? Is it something I should be worrying about?
In case it matters, it's a 1998 Honda Civic LX.
I have an issue with my 98 honda civic lx, with 197000 mils. Recently I had my Check engine light on. I ignored it for a day. The next day started my car and in the middle of the road it stopped moving, meaning in spite of accelerating it doesn't move. So I stopped at the shoulder, turned off the engine. After a while I started again, the car moved but later on it stopped moving when I was accelerating. The Engine did not turn off during the stall. Couple of weeks back the car was shaking on the front side when I was driving, it felt like the car was about to stop as if it was short of fuel.I changed the spark plug 15000 miles back. Water pump and timing belt was changed 25000 miles back.Car has a highway mileage of 32 mpg.
View 4 RepliesMy 1998 Honda Civic has oil in the radiator. And even stranger, the oil winds up in the overflow coolant reservoir. What is the most likely cause of this?
View 10 RepliesMy car drives fine till it heats up then if I come to a stop it won't go into gear.....
View 9 RepliesMy 98 Civic ex runs and shifts perfect to have 200,000+ miles but when you try and shift to reverse it grinds. It acts like it's gonna shift into reverse but doesn't. When you shift back into park or neutral you can hear it still spinning. Sounds like a card in spoke of bike. We have drained fluid twice and replaced also added trans-x.
View 4 RepliesI've got a 1988 Honda Civic Sedan. 151, 000 miles. Runs great,except when I have to stop for gas or I pop the clutch maladroitly to get going and kill the engine. Then it won't start up. It used to do it once or so every five times I stop to gas up. I don't drive it much and have to re-charge the battery every month or so--even the new battery. It started this herky-jerky thing last summer but the tow guy convinced me it was a bad gas problem. A gas additive seemed to clear it up, but not the starting problem.
Just last night I recharged the battery,let the engine run 15 minutes or so the next morning, then shut it down and tried to restart it; turned over but wouldn't start. In general, when it cools down about an hour or so later, it starts fine. So engine heat seems to cause it.I've giving up trying to gas up at the cheap stations. Instead I go to the local station two blocks away so I can push it aside and come back later to get it if it stalls. Could this be something simple I could fix?
I have a '98 Honda Civic that is regularly maintained and seems fine with the exception of a starting problem when left outside. I have it in a garage normally and have never had a problem starting it. But when left outside, it usually takes a couple of hours for the car to warm to the outside temperture as it rises. The battery is new and the spark plugs seem fine so I am at a loss.
View 2 Replies