Civic - Honda :: 1998 - CEL Came On With Codes P0700 And P0715?
Feb 5, 2013
My wife's(who is in school out of state) 1998 Civic EX 2 door coupe with 127.7k miles has been showing the Check Engine light for a week now - had her get it checked at a local Meineke and the codes are P0700 and P0715 - also the D4 light is constantly flashing while she drives. There is no discernible issues/change in the driving experience except she says the engine sounds louder and sometimes it accelerates slowly. I believe Honda has a TSB on this (01-012). I saw a member on a honda civic forum was able to get this resolved under an extended emission warranty [URL]..... - so I called Honda customer care but they said the TSB does not apply to my 1998 Civic.
Is there something I am missing in reference to coverage from Honda for this problem - I see that the gentleman who was successful in getting this done from the dealer under an extended emissions warranty had a 96 Civic and someone mentioned 96-98 model years in the discussion on this issue. We have a baby on the way so will be buying a bigger car before the end of March - intend to keep this car as a secondary for occasional use (if the cost to fix this issue is not in the thousands) - so I am trying to figure out what makes the most sense :
1. Should we bring the car to a local dealer ? this one dealer said they will charge to diagnose and if I get the work done there - the testing cost will go towards repairs.
2. Drive the car as is - and try to find a local mechanic when I'm there next month.
3. Get a transmission drain and fill - believe a trans flush is not usually.
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My 1998 Honda Civic has been dormant in my drive way for about a month and a half with very little gas. I went out to try to start it the other day and it struggled for a bit and never turned over. It isn't the batter considering the headlights and radio work just fine, thus I sought out the nearby gas station and attempted to solve the problem by putting gas in it, yet when I returned and emptied out my gas can into the tank it was the same ol' story. What it could be?
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I have a 2005 Grand caravan with a 3.3L. Over the summer I was having issues with the transmission.Got the codes reaf, P0700 and P1726( I think). After this had an input speed sensor replaced and the TCM. The van worked for about 3 months, but now is acting up again. This time I got codes P0700 and P0704. Was told it was a clutch switch malfunction. Can't seem to find any details about this code.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
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I have 1998 Honda civic 2 Dr and i was trying to switch cd players in it and blew some fuses so i checked all and replaced the blown ones but now it won't start.
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I've been checking my oil every morning for a few weeks now because of a worry about it burning off. I check it at the same time each morning, in pretty much the same parking spot, before driving it. Every time I take out the dipstick, wipe it off and put it back in to check. What's weird is that the level seems to fluctuate. Some days it's up over the higher dot. Some days it's down closer to the lower one (though it hasn't been under). Most days it's somewhere closer to the middle between the two. Is it common for it to fluctuate that much on a day to day basis? Is it something I should be worrying about?
In case it matters, it's a 1998 Honda Civic LX.
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I have an issue with my 98 honda civic lx, with 197000 mils. Recently I had my Check engine light on. I ignored it for a day. The next day started my car and in the middle of the road it stopped moving, meaning in spite of accelerating it doesn't move. So I stopped at the shoulder, turned off the engine. After a while I started again, the car moved but later on it stopped moving when I was accelerating. The Engine did not turn off during the stall. Couple of weeks back the car was shaking on the front side when I was driving, it felt like the car was about to stop as if it was short of fuel.I changed the spark plug 15000 miles back. Water pump and timing belt was changed 25000 miles back.Car has a highway mileage of 32 mpg.
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My 1998 Honda Civic has oil in the radiator. And even stranger, the oil winds up in the overflow coolant reservoir. What is the most likely cause of this?
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My car drives fine till it heats up then if I come to a stop it won't go into gear.....
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My 98 Civic ex runs and shifts perfect to have 200,000+ miles but when you try and shift to reverse it grinds. It acts like it's gonna shift into reverse but doesn't. When you shift back into park or neutral you can hear it still spinning. Sounds like a card in spoke of bike. We have drained fluid twice and replaced also added trans-x.
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I've got a 1988 Honda Civic Sedan. 151, 000 miles. Runs great,except when I have to stop for gas or I pop the clutch maladroitly to get going and kill the engine. Then it won't start up. It used to do it once or so every five times I stop to gas up. I don't drive it much and have to re-charge the battery every month or so--even the new battery. It started this herky-jerky thing last summer but the tow guy convinced me it was a bad gas problem. A gas additive seemed to clear it up, but not the starting problem.
Just last night I recharged the battery,let the engine run 15 minutes or so the next morning, then shut it down and tried to restart it; turned over but wouldn't start. In general, when it cools down about an hour or so later, it starts fine. So engine heat seems to cause it.I've giving up trying to gas up at the cheap stations. Instead I go to the local station two blocks away so I can push it aside and come back later to get it if it stalls. Could this be something simple I could fix?
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I have a '98 Honda Civic that is regularly maintained and seems fine with the exception of a starting problem when left outside. I have it in a garage normally and have never had a problem starting it. But when left outside, it usually takes a couple of hours for the car to warm to the outside temperture as it rises. The battery is new and the spark plugs seem fine so I am at a loss.
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I am the second owner of a 97 Cherokee 4.0 2wd. My overdrive works now and then. my check engine light is on. I had it scanned it throws 2 codes. p0700 and p0705. It has 147k and we already replaced the entire cooling system including flushing the engine and system thoroughly . Now it has been sitting for nearly 2yrs. just not sure what direction to go.
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I have an 05 Elantra GLS auto transmission, ~83000 miles. Last Friday, the car was driving fine. I didn't drive it on Saturday, but when I started it up Sunday night, that's where the issue began. First, when I shift into reverse, the car makes a noise like as when you go over a pot hole. Idle RPM is around 800.
When I press the gas pedal, usually the response from the car to go forward is almost instantaneous, but now it take a second or two from the time I press down the gas pedal to when the car moves forward. The process is smooth though, no hiccups as it does that. Next, when I was driving on the highway between 70 - 80 MPH, the car's RPM was 4000 - 4500. It even sounds like the engine is "working harder" than it usually does. The 'Check Engine' light is also on with these codes: P0700 and P0885.
Another thing I noticed is that the car alternates between running fine and running with the conditions described above. If the car run with the symptoms described above, I shut off the car and restart it. Then it will run fine, but the check engine light will stay on. Then if I turn off the car and restart it, it will go back to the mode where I have the issues.
From some research, the P0700 code just means that the TCM has the actual code which is P0885. According to the tech manuals at [URL] ...., the P0885 has the following probable causes.
- Malfunction of the A/T control relay
- Malfunction of connector
- Malfunction of the PCM
The car actually ran fine today, with out any issues but the Check Engine light is stuck on. How to replace/service this PCM item? Or maybe this issue is covered under 100,000mile warranty?
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I have a '98 Honda Civic EX with 260K miles on it. Car normally runs better than my newer cars. Yesterday on the way to work, I came up to a stop sign, and the car died. I put it in park and tried to restart several times. It cranked over fine, but sounded like it had no spark. After several attempts, I thought I would just put it in neutral and get it out of the road. I turned they key on and tried to put it in neutral, but the shifter wouldn't unlock. After turning the key on and off what seemed like a hundred times, the unlock button on the shifter finally unlocked. Without even trying to put it in neutral, I turned the key all the way, and the car started right up. I believe this same thing happened to my wife several months ago, except she just told me it died and the engine light came on. Could this be a problem with the ignition switch??
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 166Kmiles that is new to me. For about 1.5 months I had no issues but about a month ago I was driving and noticed something odd. If I tapped the brake, the lights would dim and the radio would cut out. Not every time but frequently. As I was coasting into my parking spot, I pushed the power window button to close the window and the car stalled. After that I started having hit and miss troubles getting the engine to crank. Either it would crank or there was NO power (i.e. no dashboard lights, radio, etc.) at all. Jump starting would work but I had to get the cables just so. Last week it gave up occasionally starting. I can still jump start but again the cables have to attached just so. Once started the car will run but I have to keep it above idle or it might stall. I replaced the battery to no avail. What is my next step in solving this electrical system problem?
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My honda just celebrated its 155000 mile and low and behold it was greeted with a vibration in the steering column. It gets worse on uneven roads and pretty much goes away on smooth roads... What it might be?
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I am at my wits' end with my 98 Honda Civic LX. The problem starts around late summer of last year. It is sporadic, so I didn't quite pay attention until one day the engine died on the highway after I picked up the kids at the school. It didn't make any sound nor giving any warnings, just suddenly died. After that highway episode, it seems like it just taken its own fancy schedule as far as when to die, so to say. In a given day, it could 4 episodes in a day. Then it runs perfectly for some weeks then it starts again and went away again.
It just quietly dies while being driven. I had to turn it completely off, wait for some moment and try to turn it on again. Sometimes it just turns on again without me being frustrated and there were moments when I had to do several attempts. Once I heard clicking sound before the engine died, only once, the rest makes no sound at all. No lights are on.
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My 1998 Honda Civic DX's RPMs are fluctuating during idle. I start the car and it is normal for about two seconds. I am assuming around 800 rpms (I don't have a tachometer). Then it jumps drastically higher, then lower, then higher, etc. Earlier tonight I replaced the throttle body gasket, replaced the spark plug wires, and cleaned the fuel injector cleaners. I took off several things in the process. I think the problem originates from taking apart the throttle body - not the other replaced parts. I have a manual 2-door 1998 Honda Civic DX with a 1.6L engine (D16Y7 engine to be exact).
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My Honda Civic 98 starts funny. It will hesitate about 3-5 seconds before cranking and sometimes after starting the starter will grind momentarily before letting go.
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