Civic - Honda :: 1991 - Loud Electrical Pop Sound / Radio Stopped Working
Mar 18, 2015
The radio in my 1991 Honda Civic has been dying a slow death over the past year. First it would stop working if the weather was too hot. Then it would only work sporadically, finally it almost never worked. Whenever the radio stopped working, there would be a loud electrical "pop" sound, so I thought it might have a short. Yesterday my husband fixed the upper rear brake light (cleaned contacts) so it would pass inspection. Now the radio works perfectly! Are the brake lights and radio on the same circuit?
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I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. I purchased the van used back in February with 34,000 miles on it. About a week after I bought it, the van started having odd electrical problems. My radio controls on the wheel would stop working, my rear wiper would start running even though it is in the off position. My power sliding doors would catch and close at the half way point on both sides at the same time. It is little odd ball stuff, but I am worried that the "brain" is not working properly. I have taken it to the dealer multiple times and of course they can't find the problem. They say to bring it back if it keeps happening, which I do, but every time they say it is fine and send me on my merry little way.
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I have a 91 Honda civic hatchback base model 1.5L and I am having serious electrical problems. My wife took the car to town and when she got back all the lights quit working and it just sits there and clicks if I don't remove the main relay. But the main relay also controls the fuel pump. Have already replaced main relay?
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My 2007 Honda Civic LX car horn suddenly stopped working after I had just used the horn a few minutes earlier. It does not work from the steering wheel and it does not work from the remote when I lock the car. The fuse seems to be OK (the horn seems to be on the same circuit as the brake lights and those are working).
I believe I can hear the relay under the dashboard clicking when I try to use the horn so I suspect that the horns are actually broken. But I was wondering how many horns the 2007 Honda Civic LX has? I have been told different things by different car mechanic/dealers. One said that it has only 1 horn and the other says it has two (one "high" and one "low"). What is correct?
If it has two horns I would be less inclined to think that both horns stopped working at the exact same time so it might just be a bad wiring or something What is reasonable to pay for repairing the horn at a mechanic?
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Lately my car makes a loud squeak on reverse and only on reverse. It does so WHETHER I'M BRAKING OR NOT. At first it was happening selectively, but the last few days it happened every time I reversed. Now, the squeak started happening right after I took the car in for AC repair. The relay and a bad wire to the compressor were replaced. Do the squeak might be related to that? Car is a Honda Civic EX 2006.
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I was driving my son to Mygym this morning and everything was completely normal, but when I got onto the highway for the last 5 minutes of the drive my car started making a loud fast rhythmic thumping sound. I thought it was my tire and slowed down to stop... and then in stopped. So I went a little faster and as soon as I hit 50, it started again. I slowed down and drove the rest of the way to my sons class and looked at my tires and they looked fine to me (I have no idea what a tire should look like, but I can tell if one is very flat... I think). I also looked under the car for any obvious debris or whatever and didn't see anything.
We had our class and when I got back on the highway and accelerated to 50, it started back up again, so I slowly drove to our exit. By the time we were nearly home I wasn't even thinking about the problem anymore, but in the 45 zone near our home it started thumping again... sure enough, I was going 50. I am also wondering if it is safe to drive my car as long as I stay under 50? I have no other means of transportation and we need to go out pretty often (daily) for classes and therapies for my son.
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My radio stopped working on my way to work. I heard a loud "pop" of static and then it shut off. I took it to the dealer, which had a hard time fixing it (they had it about 2 weeks), and they replaced all the fuses in the truck and it worked for about a week, but it just stopped again. Not sure what to do.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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04 Honda CRV: I just had new rotors / pads / calibers put on my rear 2 tires because I was getting a loud creaking sound whenever I reversed or stoped at a stop sign. Most notibly I would hear it after the car had sat for a few hours as it's not happening a 100% of the time... Am I looking at joint or wheel well problems now? The loud creaking is still an issue...
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My 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited dimension radio (no nav or touch screen) is not working the display stopped working with no sound coming from the radio. It was cold one night and i shut the car off ran inside turned it back on and then came back out to start it and no sound then next day it came back on then shut back off. and no turn on 3 months later. I only had the car a year this Feb 2016 & of course they are saying nothing can be done. It'll be one thing if the radio just didn't turn on but my display is completely blank. No light no nothing. What was the result?
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My car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
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I own an old Civic and I noticed in the past several months that I get a burned oil odor in the passenger compartment, but only when I drive downhill. I more recently notice that if I accelerate while driving down the hill, a cloud of smoke trails out behind me then clears when I let off the gas. This car has 294,000 miles on the odo. (I know) and I DO have to add a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. It runs great though. Is my motor about ready to blow or what . . . ?
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Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
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I have a 1991 Honda Civic DX and it is doing something I can't explain. Randomly the car will not even try to turn over. The ignition switch will click, the dash lights come on... but not even the slightest peep from the starter motor. If I put the vehicle in fifth gear and roll it, turning the engine over even half a rotation, the engine will fire right up.
It started on a road trip and happened very sparsely, but has since become more common. What used to be 1 out of 20 is now maybe 1 out of 4 chance it doesn't start. Every now and then it will go days without any problems, then seemingly randomly the ignition fails again for spurts. I replaced the distributor cap, plugs, and rotor about 2 months ago. The ignition switch appears to be fine....
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We have a 91 civic whose air conditioner doesn't work. The coolant level is good, and the compressor is running, but we only get external air coming through the vent.
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Have a 91 Honda Accord (automatic) with seems to be an electrical problem.After driving a while the Tac, Speedometer stop working and the radio cuts in and out. The car still runs, just a little rougher; when I turn it off it won't start, acts like the battery is dead. After it sits overnight it starts and then runs fine for a while or until it happens all over again.
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247,000 miles on '98 Toyota Camry as of last summer, car owed us nothing. Suddenly lost oil a month after regular oil change, ruined engine. Mechanic found used engine from totaled car (w/ approx 65,000 miles). Current problems:
1. speedometer/odometer not working,
2. heater/blower stopped working this week, blower makes a LOUD, HIGH FREQUENCY sound, sort of like a siren.
Was hoping to get another 2 years from her considering recent cash outlay. The mechanic couldn't figure out issue #1, and he hasn't looked at it since #2 started this week. I guess we can live w/ issue #1, but #2 has to be fixed ...
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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The car; 1991 Honda Civic Hatch back. Issue; Car starts but when left to idle quickly dies. Background; I just recently replaced the valve cover gasket as well as a pierced hose that was leaking coolant. Since then (ABOUT 3 DAYS) the car has taken much longer to start up; i.e. when you turn the key it tries to start from anywhere between 2-8 sec. Before doing work it started up easily and regularly. Has been driving fine for past three days otherwise. What should I trouble shoot first? I figure I would check the spark plugs when I get home and make sure they are still seated properly. Besides that, I'm not sure where to start.
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In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
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