Civic - Honda :: 1983 - Grinding / Squeaking Accompanied With 5mpg Drop
Dec 6, 2013
There is a grinding/squeaking noise coming from what sounds like the front driver side wheel area. It is not constant... the interval between each occurrence is relative to vehicle speed. When moving slowly, like in a neighborhood, the gap is about a ½ second. The gap lessens til I hit ±65mph, when each occurrence runs into the next and the sound is pretty constant. The 10 fill-ups before this started I averaged 42.3mpg, my last 2 fill-ups average to 37.6mpg...Oh, there is no audible sound when the car is on a lift...
At first I thought a dragging brake but there is no change in the sound when the breaks are applied...I bled the lines anyway...no change.I thought CV joint, but, from what I've read, the tell-tell clicking and worsening under heavy cornering is not present.Maybe a wheel bearing? I've done the simple bearing test of trying to wiggle the wheel left-to-right & top-to-bottom...no movement.
By the way, this is a manual transmission and the sound is present whether in gear or in neutral or coasting with clutch depressed.
One more thing I should mention, and this might be important... my first poor mpg result coincided with me disintegrating a rod bearing...(low oil) I did replace the bearing with the appropriate size. I measured the crank journal with a micrometer and it still seemed to be right at the factory specs. There were no scores or gouges in the journal. (As soon as I heard the loud ticking associated with a bad rod bearing I shut the car off and pushed it to work where we have a lift. Luckily it was only about a mile and was pretty flat...it doesn't hurt that the car only weighs 1,800 lbs. either.) Anyway, I reassembled the bottom end, torqued the rod cap according to the factory service manual, torqued the oil pump and the oil pan, added new oil and started it up. It ran, and still run, nice and smooth.
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My 2011 Honda Civic makes a grinding / squeaking sort of noise when I start it after it has been sitting out in the rain - either for several hours or overnight. The noise seems a bit like the noise when you crank the car but the engine doesn't start. It happens after rain or a snow, so it would seem that moisture is getting into a place it shouldn't. The dealership checked it out and couldn't find anything wrong or anything that would prevent it from starting. They also told me that this noise might well go away after the first oil change - that the additives in the oil now are suppose to seal things.
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I have a 1983 Honda Accord (manual with nearly 200,000 miles) when rolling to a stop or at a stop rpms drop below 1000 and it stalls out. I can start it back up without hesitation.No hesitation at initial startup or after sitting short or long time, it idles while in park rpms about 1000.When I feel the engine about to stall while rolling to a stop or at stop, if I put my left foot on the brake pedal, slightly step on the gas pedal with my right foot it prevents the engine from stalling. At stop if I put in park, rpms raise and don’t need to give it gas.
I'm unable [& unqualified] to work on my car. Given I drive only about 1,000 mi year; my alternate form of transportation is a bus or kindness of friends, I’m on a limited income, cannot afford to buy/ spend more than 2,000 -- my question if 2-foId, 1. is it possible that something it is nothing major and worth repairing/replacing (ex. air control/idle air bypass valve, a dirty throttle body or even carburetor)?2. Or, as discussed with one mechanic, since the car is 33 years old, during or soon after repair other problems (dried out vacuum hoses or major) will follow. Plus, parts can be difficult if not impossible to replace as a I spoke to mechanic pointed out.Given the car’s age is it worth repairing?
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Lately my car makes a loud squeak on reverse and only on reverse. It does so WHETHER I'M BRAKING OR NOT. At first it was happening selectively, but the last few days it happened every time I reversed. Now, the squeak started happening right after I took the car in for AC repair. The relay and a bad wire to the compressor were replaced. Do the squeak might be related to that? Car is a Honda Civic EX 2006.
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I own an 07 Honda Civic with about 55k miles on it. It hasn't had any issues except in the past few weeks it has been making a squeaking noise when I accelerate. It has gotten worse lately. I haven't notice any difference in the way the car drives (it idles kind of rough, but that's not a big deal).
I usually take the bus, so most times my car sits for a few days at a time. My brother in law said it could be one of the belts on the motor from sitting. He said I should put some Ivory soap or something on the belt to moisturize it.
What could be causing this? Do you think it's worth taking it to get checked out?
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My Honda Civic DX (1997) is over 200k. Over the past six months, it's been to the repair shop multiple times including each of the brake pads, shoes were replaced. Nowadays, it's making a squeaking and scraping noise as the vehicle is moving at any speed. The squeak comes and next the scraping. The sound is becoming more pronounced, it seems, daily. What the problem is coming from?
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I drive a '05 Honda civic hybrid 5-speed with about 60,000 miles. This morning as I pulled into a parking lot shifting into first gear I turn the wheel and heard a squeaky clicking sound that I could slightly feel in the gas pedal. It happened 3 more times when I pulled out of my parking spot and into another lot.
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A mechanic recently replaced the pads of the front brakes. After the service, the break makes squeaking noise when I release the break pedal. According to the mechanic, it is normal, and I better ignore the noise. Is it true?
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I carried eleven 40 lb bags of dirt in my Honda Civic (1998) - in the trunk and backseat - and then drove about two miles with the dirt in my car. After unloading the dirt, when I got back into the car I heard a distinct squeaking sound - like something in the suspension moving or creaking - the sound seemed to come from the middle of the car. I started up my car and there was no sound but as soon as I began to drive I noticed that my car was leaning distinctly to the left and there was a rubbing and squealing sound coming from the left front end of the car - or so I think. I got out to check whether there was anything hitting the tire, but there wasn't.
I didn't drive the car very far, except to park it. The car is drivable, but just makes an unbelievably loud squealing/rubbing noise now. It does not pull to the left, but is leaning to the left as if something broke or cracked or I have a flat tire (which I don't).
I've carried heavy loads before - but perhaps this was the last for my Honda. I thought it might be the suspension, then maybe cracked CV boots. I have 129,000 on the car and have kept up maintenance on it.
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When I turn my key the car makes an awful grinding noise and then starts up fine. What is this and should I have it looked at?
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I am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?
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Recently I installed a GTA bluetooth system (about 4 months ago) and recently there is a squeaking noise coming from the passenger side. It almost sounds like an AC compressor issue (had the same problem with my F-250) but there is also an accompanying "gurgling" sound as well. AC problems with the Gen 2 after 160,000 miles?
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My '98 Honda Civic hatch is making a rubbing or grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel. It only happens when I'm making a speedy left turn and is made worse when there's lots of weight in the back seat. My boyfriend who mostly knows what he's doing checked the wheel for play and any grinding of the wheel bearings and he thinks the bearings are fine. We also checked around the wheel for foreign objects and any obvious issues i.e. pieces of the car hanging off.
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I get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
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I have a 2007 Honda Civic with about 46,000 miles on it. I purchased the car "certified used" about 1 1/1 years ago. For the past several months I've been experiencing a grinding/crunching noise when I apply the brake in reverse. I've taken it to a Honda dealer and they more or less told me that it sounds like something could have been wrong with the brakes. They ended up telling me they couldn't find anything wrong and that my brakes are fine. I've called the dealer to see if they could look at it again, but now my car isn't under warranty and they'll charge me to look at it. What could be causing this noise? At this point in time it's more annoying than anything - I'm afraid if I let it go it might end up hurting something in the long run.
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As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.
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2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.
After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.
A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.
About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.
Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.
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My CR-V 2005 ( 190,000 miles) got a CEL on ( Nov, 2014)( Colorado). Dealer's scan showed code: P0139 : O2 sensor 2( downstream) slow response( Dec,11,14). I took my car to a shop close to my house for replacement of O2 sensor. After replacement, the machinist told me, my sensor( new) " still stuck full rich". he suggest if my CEL is on with same code ( P 0139), I'll need to change the Catalytic Converter ( Jan, 8, 2015). So far my CEL has been on & off 3 times ( by itself) with the same code P0139.
1st time was 2 days after the replacement, just almost a minute before the empty -gas-tank light was on, and off 3 days later. Ten days after that, CEL was on, just before I filled up my empty gas tank, and off 2 day later. The 3rd time was 3 days after the 2nd, my gas tank is half empty. I decide to fill up the tank and started my car, CEL was off right away. I talk to my mechanist( Jan,28,15), he said My Converter is borderline ,still needs to be replaced. My car has been running OK before, during & after the CEL on & off.
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I leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
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My girlfriend has a 2007, v6, Honda Accord. She had difficulty turning the steering wheel, accompanied with a loud noise. She took it to a local garage and they diagnosed it as a leak in the power steering hose which she had replaced for about $400. When she used the car the following day, the problem was still there and seemed to be a little worse. She called the garage and they said for her to bring the car back which we'll be doing tomorrow. Also, coincidentally, we saw that Honda issued a recall for this. [URL] ...... As a result, we have the following questions:
-Is there any recourse for full or partial reimbursement from Honday? After all, if we took it to Honda, then Honda dealer would bill Honda Manufacturer anway.
-Should garages be familiar with recalls?
-Assuming the local garage fixes the problem, do you recommend that we still take it to the dealership?
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How quaint for these issues to turn up after the initial warranty period ends. Recently I've been having trouble with noises coming from the left wheel well. The worst noise is a grinding sound while steering to the left only. It sounds like two metal pieces rubbing together and it reverberates through the spring (or so it seems). Whilst driving, the noise changes.
I will hear a rattling coming from the left side as if something were lose; the sound is intermittent and occurs because of variations in the pavement. It is not a constant sound. Whilst going over speed bumps at low speed the sound is a creaking noise that sounds remarkably like creaky springs; oh and the rattle noise is produced at the initial "impact" with the speed bump as well, but only once.
Finally, it seems that it is important to note that I cannot reproduce ANY of these sounds when it is raining! I drove around for 2 hours attempting to reproduce the noises. I even went into an empty lot and did some mock "cone weaves" to see if I could torture the bloody car into cooperation! To no avail.
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