My car has this issue where I'll drive with the hot air on and it will be fine until I am say slowing down to a stoplight, all the sudden I will begin to hear this screeching sound. Odd thing is when I turn off the hot a/c it tapers off after maybe 5-8 seconds. Never had the belts changed which what my first thought but I thought you all would know more about this issue. What it might be?
View 4 RepliesMy friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
View 1 RepliesNoticed my beater Honda del Sol (177k miles) idling slowly the other day. Normal 45F day, light urban driving. Usually idle is ~800rpm (indicated), was dropping to 600rpm and even 500rpm. Holding her at 1000rpm then releasing the gas pedal yielded ~300rpm and it almost died, followed by ~500rpm. Ran fine at any other speed; it had no hesitation, no noises, and no warning lights.
So my GF said, "you're probably low on oil; my Cooper S did that once". Huh? Why would low oil, other than if it were so low that it starved the engine and caused friction, impact the idle? If anything, I'd think it would idle faster with less fluid to pump, and/or with hotter and hence thinner oil (assuming it'll run hotter if it has less oil, which it didn't appear to be).
Sure enough, I checked and it was about a quart low. I've never had a car that uses oil, plus my cars usually have oil pressure & oil level indicators (i.e. Porsche 944S2). So I've never run those lower than near the bottom of the "normal" range.
Searching "The Google" only provided unsatisfactory answers about metal-to-metal grinding and galling slowing down the engine, which is not what is happening here. There is still oil pressure, the oil light does not come on, and the engine sounds "normal". And adding oil immediately cured the slow idle.
2010 Sonata Sport. At first I thought it was a rock in one of my breaks but its gotten nothing but worse. I have a LOUD screeching noise from my front passenger wheel, it happens when I turn left and also when i use my breaks (but not every time). It started yesterday and has got nothing but worse. Literally seems the more i drive the worse it gets. There is no play in my steering wheel but there's always been a VERY MILD vibration in the wheel between 100 - 120 km/h. But then stops.
View 3 RepliesI just changed the engine in my 96 Honda civic, 1.6 base model. The change over went well and had no problems. When I have the car idle and it gets up to temp, the RPM's go from 2000 down to 500 then jumps to 2000 then down 500 again. When I put it into gear, drive or reverse, it stops jumping. What did I do wrong?
View 4 RepliesMy car has been having idling issues for about a year now. While idling the RPMs oscillate between 1 krpm and almost 0, with a frequency of about one oscillation per second. That got worse over time, and it started dying while idling too. I ignored the problem because it wasn't that bad, until a few weeks ago it died about 7 times on a 2 mile trip. (I developed a technique of using my right foot to press the gas and the brake simultaneously so I could come to a stop while keeping the engine going. But that only gets you so far.) I took it to a garage, they said I probably need a new IACV. Instead of having them do it, I just bought one and put it in myself. I'm not an experienced mechanic, but this seemed fairly easy; I'm pretty sure I didn't screw it up.
So, now it's displaying almost the exact same symptoms. It's not oscillating like it was before, but it's still dying pretty frequently, only on idle. I'd like to know if there's anything else I can try before I take it back to the shop.
A little more information about my car:- Replaced the motor about a year and half ago, put a few thousand miles since then. I don't know what other parts were replaced as part of the motor, but probably not many considering what I've had to replace. - Since the motor replacement, I've had the following replaced: rear main seal, clutch, distributor, distributor again, and water pump- The odometer reads 223k miles, but I don't know how many miles the new motor has. - 1990 Honda Civic LX 1.5L
So my car was fine when I drove to the store, with no AC on. After that, I wanted to drive to a hotel, which is 1/2 of a mile away. Before I drove there and after I started my car, I blasted my AC (turning up to #3). On my way there the car was fine. When I drove into the parking lot and braked, the car suddenly turned off by itself showing the battery light. After the car turned off by itself, the fan (not AC..
AC doesn't run when engine is turned off) was still running. I freaked out, immediately turned AC/Fan off and restarted it. It was successful after the first try. So my question is...what caused the car to turn off by itself? Is it because of my AC? I know FOR SURE...it's not because of
1. timing belt because i recently changed it.
2. battery but i installed a brand new last summer.
I'm wondering if top tier gasoline is better for our car's. I had a 2002 Camry that stopped idling up with the A/C turned on. I was told that the only way to fix was to replace the throttle body after it was sprayed with some kind of cleaner. No adjustments as the idle is set by the car's computer. Don't want to go through that again.
View 22 RepliesCan this make sense, or is this just some weird coincidence?
View 2 RepliesIn the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
View 1 RepliesI am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
View 5 RepliesWhenever I turn on my A/C and the car is in idle, it will turn off. Then I have to put it in park and turn it in again.
View 1 RepliesMy car ( civic 1.5 dx duel injected) just cut off while I was going down the free pay like the key had been turned off. Now it turns but won't crank. I am getting spark from my plugs, my fuel pump still works, i think my injectors are ok, when I took off the air box I can see fuel going into the throttle body, my throttle isn't stuck, diaphragm seems to have a seal. I took the head cover off and there isn't any fuel/oil in the valves. What could it be? After I put the plugs/cap/head cover back on it cranked for a second then idled down and back to no start.
View 9 RepliesI had a blown head gasket replaced on my Civic last month and since then I've noticed a chirping noise every time I turn on the A/C and about every 18 seconds thereafter. Sometimes there's a longer, louder squeal, too.
Does that sound like a belt issue or an expansion valve problem or something else entirely? Will it hurt my car to keep driving it like this? And could it be related to the replaced head gasket?
Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
View 10 RepliesIs it possible for the engine fan to start running on my honda civic while the car is turned off and has been off for hours? My husband claims that it was so hot in the garage last night that the fan on the car started running. I think it was the house air conditioner that he heard, but he insists it was the car engine fan. I think he's up in the night!! So...is it him, or me, that's up in the night?!
View 8 Replies1995 dodge neon... When I turn the car off, it burps, or bubbles air into the overfill tank. Car now also overheats when idling or in stop and go traffic. Temperature goes down when running heater.Not sure if it is the water pump or an issue with the radiator.
View 9 RepliesSitting in my living room I noticed that suddenly my headlights on my 97 Subaru ob turned on. First thought was someone was stealing my pos. Knife in hand I went to investigate. No one there. The keys were in the car, in the off position. The headlights all of a sudden turned off. I noticed that the dash lights were flickering on and off. I removed the keys yet the dash lights remained on. Not wanting my battery drained I disconnected the positive cable, which obviously corrected the issue for the time being. When I was disconnecting the battery I heard a mechanical whirring noise coming from the passenger side of the car just behind the headlight. Have never heard this noise before. NOT the intake fan or the AC. Did not investigate extensively due to darkness, wind and rain.
View 11 RepliesI always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
View 11 Replies2003 camry 2.4 ... This is what is happening, cooling fans will not come on except when the AC is turned on and they will stop working when the AC is turned off, otherwise the car will over heat.
This is what I have done...Replaced the fans (because the radiator fan was bad, after hooking them up directly to the battery). I checked all the grounds, including the one under the intake, checked the fuses, checked relays using 12vots to the relay and used a ohm meter to see if it made contact when activated, on the three fan relays. Replaced and tested the new radiator sensor using a pot of water on the cooking stove with a cooking temperature gauge and ohm meter. It tested ok.
Unplug the radiator sensor while the car is running, the fans will come on, but go off as soon as it is plug back in, even when the motor is over heating. Also replaced the thermostat.
What can I do next, before I burn the motor up trying to fix it? Motor just started running rough. Just now pulled up a code of the number three cylinder miss firing
My 2006 Passat 3.6 developed this problem very recently and wanted some opinion as to what could be wrong before taking it to the dealer as it's now out of warranty with 115,000k.
Basically, once the oil reaches 90C, the car will stall after idling for a few minutes. The revs will hover at the 600 mark, and it will just stall. I can turn it back on right after without any issues and can also prevent this from happening by keeping the revs up myself while stopped...
The idle is also a bit rough: the revs are stable on the tach, but I can feel some vibration in the cabin which wasn't there before...