Chrysler - Weather - Noises - 300c :: Click And Clack Under Acceleration For The First Several Miles
Jan 29, 2011
What would casue a clicking noise (like a sewing machine)under acceleration for the first several miles on a cold morning (50 degrees or below, we live in Louisiana)? Car is 2006 Chrysler 300C with 5.7L Hemi motor, 90,000 miles, all lifters replaced last summer - noise was apparent before new lifters. Dealership is stumped - they do not believe it is a problem with new lifters.
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I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
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I have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
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We just got a used 2001 VW Cabrio through a private sale and are unfortunately encountering the first issues a few days after.
It has a manual transmission.
When reversing, the car makes a clack clack sound.The clack clack sound is faster if the car reverses faster.The sound is loud when reversing with the the clutch pedal up.The sound faints, but still exists with the clutch pedal down.The sound disappears when the clutch stick is disengaged from a gear, even though the car keeps rolling backwards.
We know from the receipts, that the car had clutch work done in April.
Before hitting up mechanics, we are trying to find out if this is merely a clutch issue or if this could likely be the entire transmission, or whether we are totally off and its something else entirely.
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When I'm turning left or right I'm hearing a click-clack from the front, what this may be?
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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What makes a 6.0 or 7.3 "clack"? I am not experienced enough with internals of a diesel to understand it.
Reason I ask, is my 6.0 is clackier than ANY other 6.0 or 7.3 that I have encountered. I mean it really cackles. Injector timing?
the engine was "bulletproofed" and (as the seller stated to me) was "flashed with a custom designed tune made by a Powerstroke specialist"... to which I have no further information on. This I assume was done for longevity and not performance.
Its quiet on the highway, but in town and stop-starts or low-speed acceleration it is crazy crackly.
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My 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
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My Camry Hybrid XLE has been at the dealership for a total of 26 days and 3 unsuccessful repair attempts relating to my dash that constantly creaks and makes cracking noises during cold weather. The shop foreman at the dealership also has not had a single camry (besides mine) come back for a noisy dash. The lemon law in my state kicks in at 30 days in the shop and/or four unsuccessful repairs and the dealer is well aware of this. I currently have the car and am waiting for a 'field technical specialist' to show up to take a look. I was told he/she comes comes 'once a month' but offered no more details than that. I noticed on this forum that some dealerships can call the specialist whenever and have them show up. Apparently mine only comes once a month... My luck will be that it will be too warm the day the specialist shows up and they will not be able to reproduce the issue!
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My 2003 Chrysler is making a strange "whirring" noise. It is shaking a bit and there is occasionally a knocking noise near the rear driver's side tire. What the problem could be?
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I have a Chrysler Neon 2001 and due to the recent cold weather in Montreal i had issues starting it. The battery seems to be functioning properly but when i try to start it, there wont be any sound what so ever, also i found a broken plastic pipe which im not sure what its there for ( I have uploaded a photo of it).
Link to picture : [URL] ....
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2000 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5 V6, 84,300 miles. Twice, after sitting out a day or 2 in wet weather, it was very, very difficult to start. Each time, it didn't fire at all, but then did finally start after 4 or 5 tries and ran fine.
Tried spraying water everywhere under the hood, while it was running, but got no miss or other symptom. After then sitting a day or 2 in the garage, it started and ran fine the first 2-3 miles, then started stumbling/missing and stalled at a light. It restarted and continued to stumble/miss before running fine after another 1-3 miles. Changed the distributor cap and repeated the same test, getting same result. Also checked fuel pressure--it's on the money, building specified pressure and holding as expected. No check engine light or other symptom and no relevant codes.
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Three times this winter, during or after a several day freeze, my car won't start without lots of gas peddle pumping. AAA tech said it was water in the gas and recommended HEET. I've used it with apparent success but wonder why I've never had this problem before in over 50 years of driving in the Seattle area.
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Today, I experienced the coldest temperatures yet on my drive to work. At one point, I saw a '24F' shown as the outside temperature (although not unusual for April in Minnesota):
Expected: My gas mileage was down a bit. I was impressed it wasn't as bad as I would have expected from our 2005 Prius, though.
I should have expected: On the last 1/2 mile or so, when driving slow on the little bit of EV left while in the forced HV mode, I accidentally accelerated too much and forced on the ICE again (it had been previously on earlier in my 22 mile commute). This time, however, it was different because it didn't shut off immediately. I think the ICE had to do a second warm up. I'll have to watch that more closely next time (darn that cold weather)!
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I have a 2003 PT Cruiser.
I noticed 3 distinctive noises; All of them coming from the front weel(s).
1) While driving, the car makes a boiling-kettle like sound, all the time.
2) Also while driving, it occasionally makes a taping sound (like tapping shoes). I checked all four tires and none have pebbels or nails/metal stuck to them. I do not know how or why it is making such sound
3) Finally, while breaking, the front wheels (specially the front left; driver side) makes a horrible loud squeaky sound.
After a long drive, I stopped worrying about the noises. I inspected the tires and noticed that both front wheels (rims) were super hot. I compared the temperature with the ones on the back and they where cold.
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For the past couple weeks on the way home from work the ICE runs non-stop for 20+ miles. My drive is 25 miles and the weather has been 105+. In the morning everything seems to work fine. In the afternoon even with the AC off, battery almost fully charged the ICE does not shut off at all even at a stop. I even tried putting it in EV mode and it tells me Not Currently Available. My Prius is a 2012 3 with 5500 miles. Is this normal in hot weather or is there something wrong??? Also the mileage sucks, in the morning with the AC on, weather around 90 I get 55-58mpg. In the afternoon I get low 40's even with the AC off.
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I am having a problem with my 2005 PT Cruiser that has been going on for several months. Whenever I am pumping gas, the gas seems to be bubbling back causing the nozzle to click off as if the tank is full. I have taken my car to a mechanic but he said he didn't find anything wrong with it. It takes 15-20 minutes to fill up my gas tank because I practically have to dribble the gas into the tank.
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My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
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I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It is overheating in a strange way. After driving 3 miles it begins to overheat. Sometimes it will overheat, then quickly drop back down to normal temperature, but then overheat again. When going up any grade it definitely overheats.
I have had the car in for repair at two mechanics. Both have GIVEN UP on fixing the problem. Here is what they tried: Replacing both radiator fans, replacing the thermostat, replacing the water pump. The car is also losing coolant. None of these repairs has solved the problem what-so-ever. It's a mystery. And I keep being deeper in the hole with money What could it be?? Someone said it could be the temperature sensor. Is that true?
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I have 2004 Chrysler Sebring base model 4 cylinder with 90,000 miles. Paid off long ago. The schedule says its time to change the timing belt but no symptoms. No other issues and have kept up the maintenance. The cost is around $1000. I need the car to last 2 more years until our new car is paid off. Should I do the repair or play the odds that it won't break down?
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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