My wife's town and country had its serpentine belt replaced. Now it won't go past second gear and is running 3.5 rpms at 40 mph. What do I do?
View 3 RepliesI had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
View 7 RepliesI am very concerned regarding how often my serpentine belt needs to be replaced. First time it was replaced at 104k, second time dealer replaced it at 126k, third time at 153k. Today I went for oil change (173k) and the dealer told me that it has little cracks and recommend replacing it. Is it normal? Could it be something else is affecting it?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Chrysler Voyager with 135000 miles and in good shape. My mechanic has replaced the serpentine belt 3 times in the last 24 months each time using a different manufacturer. The last time was <6 months ago. The tensioner pulley was replaced 10 months when the screeching noise returned as it has each time the belt is replaced. The other pulleys all seem to work fine. I use a small fingernail sized dab of NAPA's "Sil-Glyde" lubricant on the underside of the belt every 150-200 miles. I will use it more frequently if it has rained recently.
-AC works fine and is not associated with this screeching
-PS pump works fine and shows no leaks. Rack has been replaced. PS fluid system flushed and filled with new fluid.
-Alternator runs fine
Today I had my 2004 1.8T Passat in the shop for a few minor things. The car has only 89,000 KM's (NOT MILES~ I live in Canada) on it. They told me that my serpentine belt was needing to be replaced (which I knew) and they recommended that I to my timing belt at the same time. They told me that you can buy a kit that has the timing belt, tensioner and water pump in it. Anywhere I have read it has said to change your timing belt at 120,000 KMs.
View 2 RepliesI just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
View 11 RepliesI took my Prius II to the dealer to get my key fob reprogrammed. While doing that they did a routine check and noticed that my serpentine belt was quite worn. I had them replace it.
View 2 RepliesLong story short is, I replaced my 2007 Santa Fe's serpentine belt and it still squeals for some time after we start the vehicle (then stops) ... but more importantly I *think* its still slipping if we're driving during rain or on very wet roads.
Long story long is ... the problem appeared as loss of power steering and air conditioning when driving during rain. Took it to the dealer and they suggested to replace the serpentine belt, replace the shroud (plastic) that covers the belt, and replace the timing belt. As we have 36k miles on it, no one I talked to understood the timing belt suggestion. I see though perhaps its just because the car is 4 years old? The shroud the dealer claimed was cracked and may be letting water in on to the belt. However, they completely removed it and did not replace it so I was not able to inspect this myself (wife took the car in for the appointment).
I bought the new belt and put it on. The squeaking was gone but as soon as I hit rain again, the slipping was back as bad as before (and we'd lose power steering / air conditioning same as before). I had a 1.5 hour drive in rain where the belt was slipping almost nonstop; constant back and forth between catching and slipping.
When the replacement shroud came in I thought that might solve the problem - keeping moisture off the belt. However with that in place I'm afraid there is still some slippage as I've noticed some dashboard lights come on during brief heavy rain. Also the initial squeaking is back when we start the car.
We have a 04 Town and County with about 97,000 miles on it. If we are sitting still for a period of time, it will drop into limp mode. You actually hear a clunk, then the shift indicator lights up ever gear PRND, they all appear with a box around them as indicated. It happens more often if the AC is running. Actually at stop lights we turn the AC off. It happened in line at a drive in movie once. After it sits for a bit it is fine. No issues going down the road. But it seems to happen if there is not movement.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 PT Cruiser (not turbo) is giving me a very frustrating P0700 code and a weird problem. First thing in the cold, autumn, the car drives perfectly fine (through still with the engine code on). Once the day warms up a little, the transmission decides that shifting past second gear is for punks and won't do it, so 30 mph has the engine revving at 3K rpm.
My morning commute is 20 minutes, and in that time, I go up to 50 mph with no issues. Driving home, or any other time of day, becomes the issue. What in the world could possibly be going wrong? I've been trying to hit up the junkyard for a PCM to see if switching that out would work, but it's been too rainy and cold to get out there.
I had put on about 300 miles on the car in my sig before this started happening. Every once in a while as the car goes to upshift it will free rev a couple hundred rpm before falling into the next gear. I have not been driving it hard at all and have been driving easy when this happens.
Could be something as simple as needing a fluid change but the thing only has 34,000 miles on it, I hope it's not serious.
Upon a cold start up it sounds like the serp belt squeaks for about half a second on a pulley that isn't spinning freely. That's what it sounds like. I am just wondering, are these "known issues" with these cars?
Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 Replies2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 RepliesWhen I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
View 3 Repliesmy daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
View 1 RepliesThis car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
View 5 Replieshave a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
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