I have a Chrysler 2002 T & C. When the ignition is "on", everything works, but if the car starts, these accessories drop out and don't come back on for minutes at a time. The ignition switch has been replaced, but it still happens?????
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country with all the bells and whistles. About a year ago started with a strange problem. When you started the car these things happened: The windshield wipers would start flapping, the windows would be locked, fan on the heating system would go to full blast while the temperature would reset to 72 degrees and the automatic doors would not work. The problem is intermittent and seems to be worse on hot days. My mechanic was lost on this and sent us to the dealer. The dealer said it was the radio/DVD system? That didn’t sound right so I had them just disconnect the system to see first if it corrected the problem. Hooked the system back up. Now the DVD doesn’t work and still have the problem. We have tried turning off the car and unhooking the battery. this stops it sometimes. Then we found that just resetting the the temperature would straighten it out (sometimes and temporarily). The car has been doing great for the past 6 months (fall and winter) and now started doing it again.
View 19 RepliesWhy do my wipers pop up about 2" each time the horn blows when the door is opened? They don't pop up if the car is running and I blow the horn myself. My local Chrysler service center has attempted to fix the problem twice without success. Once by replacing the door harness and then by replacing the multifunction switch. The problem is still there and my warranty is running out!
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 Lariat 6.0L Crew Cab. My wipers, radio and power windows don't work. I have painstakingly checked every one of the fuses to see if there was one or more blown. All were OK.
I removed the fuse panel under the dash and have disassembled it to look for obvious clues, burnt wires/heat damage etc. but everything looks fine. Have pushed all of the fuses in to make sure they were seated properly. No joy.
I recently replaced one of the back windows in my truck and had to detach the rear dome light and I remember one of the wires sparking. Where to start diagnosing this problem?
My brother in law is on a road trip and his radio suddenly stopped working. The radio panel displayed "No Radio." He stopped for gas, turned the car off and the radio was working again when he restarted the car. Is this normal or could he have a more serious electrical or computer problem
View 3 RepliesI have a Sport trac and its killing me. The windows, radio, wipers and 4x4 does not work. I have checked all of the fuses and even replaced the GEM module and they are still not working.
View 3 RepliesI poured 2 ounces of power steering fluid into an automatic transmission. What a wake up when I saw gold instead of red dumping into the funnel. I then poured 14 ounces of ATF+4 into the transmission to top it off. It's been only 8,000 miles since the transmission was flushed. Should I flush now or is the power steering fluid compatible?
View 4 RepliesI was advised to replace my brake and power steering fluild at 40,000 by the Chrysler Dealer. Ever heard of this?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
We initially had problems with the functioning of the power window. Changed the motor and the relay. All seemed well. Now when the car is initially turned on the dome light has no power, the wipers or the power windows. After a few minutes the power may return on not at all......
View 1 RepliesLast weekend we had our first warm weather up here in the Finger Lakes. My girlfriend wanted to be able to put down the top on her 2005 PT Cruiser convertible, but for a few months now the power windows and power top have not been working. She was going to take it to the shop, but I said, it may just be a fuse. I looked up the owners manual online, then drove the car to an auto parts shop and replaced the circuit breaker in the fusebox under the steering column, because it controls the power windows. The two passenger side windows started working but not the others. So I bought a fuse tester and tested all the fuses in the dashboard fusebox. They were all fine.
I drove the car some more, and couldn't figure out why the other windows wouldn't work. At one point I stopped but forgot to turn the engine off. I pulled some of the fuses out and plugged them back in, one by one. When I pulled one of them out, the engine stopped. I thought "uh-oh," then turned the ignition key to off and replaced the fuse. When I started the car again the engine light was on. I drove home (about 12 miles). I looked up stuff about the engine light on line and learned that after three trips, if everything is okay, the engine light will go out. That is exactly what happened. So I thought everything was okay except that I hadn't solved the window problem.
Two or three days later, my girlfriend got in the car to go to work in the morning. The car started but the engine light was on, and as she backed up out of her driveway the engine stopped. It wouldn't start again. The starter would just make a ratchety sound. We both figured my experiment with the fuses must have done something. I took the car (by tow truck) to a mechanic, and he didn't see how the fuses could be the problem. It turned out that the starter was bad and had burned out the battery. So I paid to have the starter replaced and a new battery put in. But when we picked the car up, he said what I'd done had nothing to do with the problem. He said the starter had probably been bad for some time, and it was just a coincidence that the car broke down a couple of days after I fiddled with the fuses. Now I'm convinced he's right, and my girlfriend is just convinced that he's wrong.
I have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
View 2 RepliesMy Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 RepliesJust picked up the truck 1995 Ranger XLT. 3L...5spd...4x4...no power windows or door locks. The key buzzer only buzzes for a few seconds, if you move the ignition it buzzes for a few seconds each time its moved. The wipers only work when the buzzer is dinging. Also..the wipers when turned off stay in the up position. I replaced the ignition key mechanism and the on off wiper relay. What am i missing in this weird scenario??
View 1 RepliesWhen I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
View 3 Repliesmy daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
View 1 RepliesThis car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
View 5 Replieshave a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start