Chrysler - Towncountry :: Wipers Pop Up When Horn Blows As Door Is Opened
Dec 4, 2012
Why do my wipers pop up about 2" each time the horn blows when the door is opened? They don't pop up if the car is running and I blow the horn myself. My local Chrysler service center has attempted to fix the problem twice without success. Once by replacing the door harness and then by replacing the multifunction switch. The problem is still there and my warranty is running out!
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I have a 2008 Chrysler Town & Country with all the bells and whistles. About a year ago started with a strange problem. When you started the car these things happened: The windshield wipers would start flapping, the windows would be locked, fan on the heating system would go to full blast while the temperature would reset to 72 degrees and the automatic doors would not work. The problem is intermittent and seems to be worse on hot days. My mechanic was lost on this and sent us to the dealer. The dealer said it was the radio/DVD system? That didn’t sound right so I had them just disconnect the system to see first if it corrected the problem. Hooked the system back up. Now the DVD doesn’t work and still have the problem. We have tried turning off the car and unhooking the battery. this stops it sometimes. Then we found that just resetting the the temperature would straighten it out (sometimes and temporarily). The car has been doing great for the past 6 months (fall and winter) and now started doing it again.
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Bought new oct.2012. Fiirst time used heat blows cold from one side hot from other. not consistent, will vary from left cold, then hot from right or the opposite. been fighting with chrysler from then till now. engineers know problem exists and are working on a fix. haven't found it yet. contacted chrysler numerous times, just get passed from one to another.
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I have a Chrysler 2002 T & C. When the ignition is "on", everything works, but if the car starts, these accessories drop out and don't come back on for minutes at a time. The ignition switch has been replaced, but it still happens?????
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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How do I access the wiring connector for a driver side door mirror on a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country van? I thought a door mirror replacement would be a simple task.
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We are currently driving home, and our Chrysler Town & Country's rear hatch door won't unlock and open, by key or handle, so our suitcases are trapped in back. We don't know if there's an easy fix, but we won't get home until Sunday, when our mechanic is closed. We'd like to unpack!
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I have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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] have a 2001 Town & Country with 157,000 miles. The driver rear automatic sliding door will not work. You can hear the motor running but it doesn't totally close...so I open and close manually. I looked in Chrysler service manual...could this be a power latch assembly?? How hard would it be to replace myself. The rear hatch is the same way have to manually open/close...can hear motor and it goes through motions but doesn't open. ???? Then today the rear wiper wouldn't work....
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I bought a 2006 Sebring convertible in Florida last winter. The driver's car door made a loud crack sound every time I opened it, so I had it fixed in May and returned up north. I have returned to Florida and after a couple of times opening the door with no problems, the loud crack sound started again. Is there another, connecting part, they should have looked at, or replaced, or does it need yet another replacement part?
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As I pulled my car into the garage tonight and put it into Park, I realized the ABS light was on as I opened the door. The car was still on at this point. I then heard a squealing coming from the front of the car. I think the lights surged whenever it would squeal (about every 10 seconds maybe) I began to smell that something was getting hot in the front of the car and quickly shut it off. What the possible source of this could be?
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I have had this problem for a while now, but can't seem to figure it out. I'm sure it's an electrical issue, but I'm not that great with electrical. My turn signals don't click when I push the handle in either direction. The turn signals come on and stay on but don't blink like they should. I checked the lights in the front and back and they just stay on but don't blink. Also my hazards don't blink. They just stay on and don't make clicking noise either. My horn doesn't work and my door doesn't ding with the key still in the ignition but in the off position. I don't know of it's all related or different issues.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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My wife's 2012 Prius C's windows pull away from the wipers when opened. As a result, all four windows will not clear the condensation or rain drops while opening, I have to get a squeegee and clean the windows manually. I have never owned or seen a car that had this problem. Went to the dealer and checked a new Prius C on the lot, looks like a design flaw since that car had the same problem. Any comments?
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
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