Chrysler - Towncountry :: Transmission Will Not Lock In Park
Apr 20, 2013
my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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I poured 2 ounces of power steering fluid into an automatic transmission. What a wake up when I saw gold instead of red dumping into the funnel. I then poured 14 ounces of ATF+4 into the transmission to top it off. It's been only 8,000 miles since the transmission was flushed. Should I flush now or is the power steering fluid compatible?
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I recently picked up a 2003 chrysler town and country from a local GM dealer in central MN. After filling out the paperwork etc I was on my way home and the transmission made a loud CLUNK. I thought I must be imagining things. At the next intersection as I accelerated from the light "CLUNK". I called the dealer right away and they stood behind the van. The dealer had me bring it to the transmission shop covering all expenses. They fixed it, or so they said. We had it for a few days and had similar problems. Back to the transmission shop. They then completely went through the transmission. We got it back and again had issues... this time it was a slight shudder in the transmission as you slowly accelerated. I brought it back again. They replaced the torque convertor. I've only had it back for a few days and it still has an occasional slight shudder under slow acceleration... it usually happens around 30mph.
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I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
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When backing up in reverse I come to a stop and shift into drive. About 60% of the time it slams into gear (Drive). It feels as if someone rearended me. It's a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country with 40K miles. 2 dealers worked on it, reprogramed the computer and replaced 2 seloniods and the problem is still there. What is wrong but said thats typical on that 6 speed. What to do next?
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2002 Chrysler Town and Country. My speedometer jumps wildly and then goes clockwise and rest without working. The trany hesitates and has a jerking when sitting in drive, and slow to shift into 2nd gear. We have replaced speed sensors, wiring and connectors, and now are thinking the chassis control box may be next.
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I have a 2003 T&C 3.6L with tow package, purchased used (privately) with 25K miles in 2006. Since I have owned it, it will occasionally not go into any gear when first started after sitting at least overnight- basically stays in neutral until engine is revved to about 2500 RPM. You can rev it in neutral or while it's in gear. This always works, and the transmission will then work fine until another overnight stay. I have had the transmission serviced 3-4 times (once when it first happened, and then at recommended intervals. The car now has 96K on it, and it has been happening less frequently (in fact, it hasn't occurred in about two weeks). I have discussed this with two Chrysler dealers, and have left it overnight twice, but of course it didn't repeat at the dealer. I haven't been able to correlate when it happens with anything except: it seems to occur more frequently when garaged in Pittsburgh than when sitting outside in Myrtle Beach (I spend time in both places).
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After trying to start my '08 Prius, the following message appears on my touch screen about 2-3 times a month: "The transmission PARK lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely". I try to patiently wait it out while I apply the parking brake, unapply it etc. Finally, all dash lights will go out, and I can then start the car.
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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I have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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After driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
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It stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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I live near Buffalo NY and we get a lot of thick hard ice on our windshields. My Town & Country minivan has a huge windshield and takes a long time to warm up. I have been using a pail of hot water to take the ice off my windshield. Everyone I have told about this is appalled, they insist it will crack the windshield. I have been doing this for quite a while with no cracks.
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Is there a good way to relieve static electricity? I get a shock almost every time I get out of my van and close the door.
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